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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 92 seville sts. I think the engine is a 4.9 liter. Anyhow, the waterpump is squirting out water when it gets hot, kinda like a small squirt gun. I'm mechanically inclined, and would like to try and replace it myself. I've never done one before, but by just looking at it, it looks easy. Does anybody have a step by step for changing this out, and does anybody know if i'll need any special tools. I found the waterpump today brand new for about $38.00 (not a reman). I just want a little guidance before i proceed. Thanks for any help!

James
 

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Had my 4.9 for 125K and never had to change it so I can't tell you too much. I believe it is accessed throught the right wheel well. No special tools that I am aware of. Hopefully someone with expirience will chime in.
 

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did this a couple months ago - if you're inclined to replace it yourself here ya go.

1) drain the coolant
2) remove the serpentine belt (use a 1/2" drive in the tensioner to lever the tension off the belt)
3) remove the battery
4) remove the coolant overflow tank
(you may not need to do this - but you'll thank me later if you do it now)
5) remove the bolts holding the waterpump pulley - a strap wrench really helps for this 'cause it give you something to hold onto - a small oil filter wrench will work (experience talking)
6) remove all the fasteners - there are a bunch of small nuts and bolts, a few fairly large bolts and one TORX fastener - the smaller ones were either 10 or 11 MM, the larger were 12 or 13MM - wish I could remember for ya but it's been a while. The fasteners near the firewall are a real pain to get to - you might have to resort to box wrenches rather than a rachet - I know I did.
7) remove the waterpump - I used the hub for the pulley for leverage and gently worked it back and forth / up and down until the seal was broken
8) clean off old gasket material - this is a pain towards the firewall BUT if you don't get it all you'll get a leak!
9) install new gasket and waterpump - I didn't use any gasket cement but I may have gotten lucky (or perhaps God just figured "it's raining - don't mess with him any more") - I just have an aversion to gasket cement that goes way back. I snugged the bolts going around the waterpump housing clockwise until they were all about the same torque (sensed by hand since my torque wrench wouldn't fit) - I made them snug but not tight enough to really distort the gasket.
10) re-install the pulley onto the hub - again - the strap wrench is your friend.
11) re-install the serpentine belt
12) re-install battery and overflow tank

I replaced my thermostat and radiator hoses while doing this so I wouldn't end up with a leak "down the road" or a bad thermostat "down the road" - I also flushed the cooling system to make sure that any stray gasket material got flushed out -

Fill the cooling system with great patience since it's a real pain to get all the air out of these things.

Took me maybe an hour - perhaps a bit more -


When you're putting the fasteners back into the block be careful - you're putting a threaded steel fitting into an aluminum threaded hole - so cross-threading is a real possibility - when I took the pump off I placed the fasteners in a magnetic tray in the approximate position they came off which made putting things back together a lot easier.

Best of luck - hope this helps

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: BOLTS on water pump on 92 seville?

:rant2:
I'm half way into changing the water pump on this BEAST! My problem is I have 3 bolts that will not break loose!. I am scared to death about breaking them off. If they break, I don't see any easy way to re-tap the holes that are in the block without removing it from the car, there is just no room. I've been hitting them with penetrating spray for three days. A buddy even gave me a nifty little gadget with a tube that heats them up a little, but still no luck.
They are as tight as a Knat's A%$* if you know what I mean. :eek:

Any advice????

Any help would be GREATLY Appreciated!


James
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Water Pump Bolts!

:rant2:
I'm half way into changing the water pump on this BEAST! 92 seville sts 4.9.

My problem is I have 3 bolts that will not break loose!. I am scared to death about breaking them off. If they break, I don't see any easy way to re-tap the holes that are in the block without removing it from the car, there is just no room. I've been hitting them with penetrating spray for three days. A buddy even gave me a nifty little gadget with a tube that heats them up a little, but still no luck.

They are as tight as a Knat's A%$* if you know what I mean. :eek:

Any advice????

Any help would be GREATLY Appreciated!


James
 

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Re: Water Pump Bolts!

Which bolts are they?

I have never had water pump bolts break off on me when doing that job.
As long as your tools have a really positive grip on the fasteners they should come out fine. When they break it's usually because the wrong tool is being used, or a worn out one.
Either way, if it's leaking it kind of has to come off... so....
 

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Re: BOLTS on water pump on 92 seville?

jamesallenus said:
:rant2:
I'm half way into changing the water pump on this BEAST! My problem is I have 3 bolts that will not break loose!.
James - I'm probably a bit late on this response - but which three? If they're the big buggers then you can probably apply quite a bit of torque without snapping them off - if they're the small ones then use caution - none of them were reverse threaded.
Best of luck

Steve
 

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There are a couple of tricks I'll mention here but you have to be very careful if you follow them.

First, if you take the 4 nuts off the two powertrain mounts on the right side and get a nice 2X4 about a foot long, put a jack under the oil pan and the trans with the board on top (so you don't dent the pans) you can raise up the right side of the powertrain and it makes it a WHOLE LOT easier.
Next, usually if you loosen the pump pulley bolts before you take off the serpentine belt it works pretty good.

Also as I mentioned in the other topic you started, just loosen them. If they are going to break they are going to break. Make sure you are using a quality tool. 6 point sockets work better than 12 point because the flats hold the bolt better and won't round the heads as easily.

Finally remember when you reassemble the pump that there is a housing behind the front engine plate than can move. You might need a small screwdriver or a punch to align the rear cover with the water pump when you reinstall the 10mm screws. This is at the forward most part of the pump.
Don't tighten any of the bolts until you get them all installed.

Good luck.
 
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