Hi...I got a question. I am a girl so go easy on me, I will explain it the best I can. Since the whole center area there is one piece, how would you install a deck or a dvd screen/player there? Would you have to get a whole new piece custom made? Or is there some way to replace the factory CD/Radio with whats there. Am I making sense? If you get it, any info would be greatly appreciated, pictures help too if you have done this in your CTS. Thanks!
How to put Deck or DVD Screen/player in a CTS?
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1st nice CTS, looks nice and clean...
And far as ur question, it's not the easiest to install an in-dash DVD player. You could just replace the entire unit but you'd lose your DIC system. Or you could hardwire a custom kit right into the OEM system, but its not something anyone can just do, LOTS of work involved with that route i.e. cutting, wiring, programing etc... Also u could install DVD player right underneath the Air control system, in the spare change holder or what ever that's suppose to be..
Check out Mbai and SDMarines rides, it'll give u an idea of ways to go about it. But the easiest route which most opt for is just replacing your OEM DIC/radio with an OEM Nav system. The Nav system can play DVD's also. But that route involves some re-wiring and additional cables/connectors to work 100% like factory. It's easier if ur CTS comes w/the Bose system but a Non-bose CTS involves a bit more work.
Unfortunately there is no quick and easy solution. The CTS doesnt like to be modified all that much haha...
And far as ur question, it's not the easiest to install an in-dash DVD player. You could just replace the entire unit but you'd lose your DIC system. Or you could hardwire a custom kit right into the OEM system, but its not something anyone can just do, LOTS of work involved with that route i.e. cutting, wiring, programing etc... Also u could install DVD player right underneath the Air control system, in the spare change holder or what ever that's suppose to be..
Check out Mbai and SDMarines rides, it'll give u an idea of ways to go about it. But the easiest route which most opt for is just replacing your OEM DIC/radio with an OEM Nav system. The Nav system can play DVD's also. But that route involves some re-wiring and additional cables/connectors to work 100% like factory. It's easier if ur CTS comes w/the Bose system but a Non-bose CTS involves a bit more work.
Unfortunately there is no quick and easy solution. The CTS doesnt like to be modified all that much haha...
Factory Nav is the easiest way to go, but they usually go for around $1000. The install is pretty simple, since they were made for the CTS to begin with. Instructions are on the FAQ.
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/navconvert/index.html
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/navpart2/index.html
Aftermarket DVD or head unit will involve a lot of fabricating/fitting/hacking/breaking new ground as there are no 'bolt-in' solutions. The fact that everything is linked in the CTS by the Class-2 serial bus makes it more like hacking computers than installing audio equipment.
If you already have the Bose system, I wouldn't pull it out to go aftermarket, since it's a top of the line system to begin with.
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/navconvert/index.html
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/navpart2/index.html
Aftermarket DVD or head unit will involve a lot of fabricating/fitting/hacking/breaking new ground as there are no 'bolt-in' solutions. The fact that everything is linked in the CTS by the Class-2 serial bus makes it more like hacking computers than installing audio equipment.
If you already have the Bose system, I wouldn't pull it out to go aftermarket, since it's a top of the line system to begin with.
Depending on what your long-term plans are, you may want to take a look at the JL Audio Clean Sweep.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=79
This will take the speaker outs comming from the factory radio, do some magic technical stuff that I dont understand, then send the sound out to your speakers. The Clean Sweep is a must if you plan on adding aftermarket speakers. The Clean Sweep also adds a set of audio inputs, which you can use to add an aftermarket dvd/nav unit, multi-disc cd changer, ipod, or whatever. The only places authorized to sell JL Audio products are the higer-end audio stores like Ovation. The Clean Sweep will set you back about $300 or $400 bucks (I dont really remember for sure), and is ideal if you want to retain the factory look or any of the functions in the DIC (remember, this includes all the buttons on the wheel, the personalization settings, and even your trip odometer). I dont know of anyone who actually has one, but I plan on getting one when I get the $2K or so that I need to put in a whole JL system (speakers, subs, and amps). If you want somebody else to take the plunge before you do, feel free to "loan" me the money and I'll tell you how I like my new system.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=79
This will take the speaker outs comming from the factory radio, do some magic technical stuff that I dont understand, then send the sound out to your speakers. The Clean Sweep is a must if you plan on adding aftermarket speakers. The Clean Sweep also adds a set of audio inputs, which you can use to add an aftermarket dvd/nav unit, multi-disc cd changer, ipod, or whatever. The only places authorized to sell JL Audio products are the higer-end audio stores like Ovation. The Clean Sweep will set you back about $300 or $400 bucks (I dont really remember for sure), and is ideal if you want to retain the factory look or any of the functions in the DIC (remember, this includes all the buttons on the wheel, the personalization settings, and even your trip odometer). I dont know of anyone who actually has one, but I plan on getting one when I get the $2K or so that I need to put in a whole JL system (speakers, subs, and amps). If you want somebody else to take the plunge before you do, feel free to "loan" me the money and I'll tell you how I like my new system.
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i used to install Decks into my friend's cars but never really operated on a CTS, but if you want the stock DIC and run aftermarket speakers, to get better quality sound i would just run the audio through an amp and then route it to the speakers. This way the speakers have the power it needs so you and the car next to you can hear. haha
The benefit of going with the clean sweep instead of running your sound straight into aftermarket speakers or an amp is a vast improvement in sound quality. Stock radios "play" with the levels to adapt to the usually lousy speakers that are part of a stock car stereo system. Even if you run the sound through an amp before going to the speakers, the stock head unit will still make these changes. It becomes more apparent the higher up you crank the volume.
Case in point - I decided to add subs to my previous vehicle, a 96 Ford Explorer (yeah, go on make all the Ford jokes you want, I dont care). I was using the stock head unit and aftermarket speakers. The subs sounded ok at low volumes, but quickly "washed out" whenever I tried to crank the volume. I decided it must be something wrong with them (they had originally been in the car I had before the explorer, but had then spent a couple of years in my closet) so when I got rid of the Explorer, I gave the subs away to a friend. He's running them exactly how I had them set up, but is using a cheap aftermarket head unit as opposed to the stock head unit. The subs are now 10 times louder and cleaner than they ever were when I had them.
So long story short, if you want to keep the factory look and functionality, but you want to upgrade speakers, add subs, or whatever, the only way youre going to get the full benefit from your investment is to invest in this as well. The other advantage is the extra audio input for adding other components.
BTW, if anyone goes out a buys this thing now that I've been pitching it so much, I want to know where you got it so I can call in and demand a commission check!
Case in point - I decided to add subs to my previous vehicle, a 96 Ford Explorer (yeah, go on make all the Ford jokes you want, I dont care). I was using the stock head unit and aftermarket speakers. The subs sounded ok at low volumes, but quickly "washed out" whenever I tried to crank the volume. I decided it must be something wrong with them (they had originally been in the car I had before the explorer, but had then spent a couple of years in my closet) so when I got rid of the Explorer, I gave the subs away to a friend. He's running them exactly how I had them set up, but is using a cheap aftermarket head unit as opposed to the stock head unit. The subs are now 10 times louder and cleaner than they ever were when I had them.
So long story short, if you want to keep the factory look and functionality, but you want to upgrade speakers, add subs, or whatever, the only way youre going to get the full benefit from your investment is to invest in this as well. The other advantage is the extra audio input for adding other components.
BTW, if anyone goes out a buys this thing now that I've been pitching it so much, I want to know where you got it so I can call in and demand a commission check!
Just remember that the CTS is not like cars of yesterday with respect to the audio equipment. I've installed plenty in 'simpler' cars over the years. In my Jeep, I simply swapped the head unit and add nicer speakers, and a factory-like sub molded into the side panel. In the CTS, the head unit also houses the DIC (a computer), and is custom shaped to the dash. The head unit and amp are both on the Class-2 serial data bus. While some have converted to nicer audio systems with giant Subs filling the trunk, you really have to be careful not to hack it apart too much, especially the harnessing. If it doesnt work out, you'll have made a real mess. Most professional installers will keep it clean.
Has anyone here used the JL Audio system in their CTS for anything but tapping into the Sub outputs on the stock amp and feeding them to aftermarket subs (ie, replacing the factory Class-2 bus amp entirely, to power all of the speakers)? My stock Bose system is crystal clear up to maximum volume, and will give me a headache after a few minutes at that level. You just need to crank up the Bass a little on the audio settings.
I guess it all depends on what music you listen to. I've noticed that 99% of those folks ripping out the CTS factory system for an aftermarket DIN sized stereo and bigger subs are likely under 25, and likely listen to very loud thumping base. Now that I'm an 'Old Guy', I find that I prefer very balanced sound across the frequency spectrum and 'comfortable' volume levels. I'm not into Hip-Hop, but I love AudioSlave, Puddle of Mudd, Foo Fighters, etc, as well as John Lee Hooker, BB King, Stevie Ray Vaughn. They sound perfect cranked up on my stock Bose setup, when the equilizer settings are set properly.
Has anyone here used the JL Audio system in their CTS for anything but tapping into the Sub outputs on the stock amp and feeding them to aftermarket subs (ie, replacing the factory Class-2 bus amp entirely, to power all of the speakers)? My stock Bose system is crystal clear up to maximum volume, and will give me a headache after a few minutes at that level. You just need to crank up the Bass a little on the audio settings.
I guess it all depends on what music you listen to. I've noticed that 99% of those folks ripping out the CTS factory system for an aftermarket DIN sized stereo and bigger subs are likely under 25, and likely listen to very loud thumping base. Now that I'm an 'Old Guy', I find that I prefer very balanced sound across the frequency spectrum and 'comfortable' volume levels. I'm not into Hip-Hop, but I love AudioSlave, Puddle of Mudd, Foo Fighters, etc, as well as John Lee Hooker, BB King, Stevie Ray Vaughn. They sound perfect cranked up on my stock Bose setup, when the equilizer settings are set properly.
The easy way to go about adding thump if that's what u want is install a self amped sub or bass tube. that way u can turn the base down on the factory speakers, increase the mids and treble on them and the bass tube handles all the bass. Even the non-bose Speakers sound pretty good with the bass at 50 or 75%, over that they start to break up. Then maybe d-mat the trunk to stop all the vibrations.
My hope, when I get the dough, is to replace everything after the head unit. As is mentioned above, I dont want to mess with the looks of the dash or the DIC unit. I currently have the base level stereo which sounds fine at reasonable levels, but once I start to crank it I loose a lot of clarity especially if theres much bass to the music. My musical tastes are quite broad (classic rock, country, rap, jazz, whatever as long as its not "pop") and my goal is to build something that will sound very clean even as I crank it, but it is not my goal to be rattling windows three blocks away with the subs.
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