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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The FPR is a small canister mounted on the fuel rail with a vacuum hose attached to the top of it. There is a diaphram in the center of it with fuel pressure on the lower half and engine vacuum on the upper half. If the diaphram ruptures, raw fuel will leak into the intake manifold and cause a rich condition affecting fuel milage and hot engine starts. If ruptured it will act much like an applied choke on a carburated engine (aiding cold starts and hindering hot starts). To check it, simply pull the vacuum hose with the engine running and look for fuel leaking out of the nipple. There should be none.

On the '93 & '94 4.6 Northstars the FPR is inside the intake manifold and since it is subjected to manifold vacuum, there is no need for a vacuum hose. On these engines you simply turn the key on but DO NOT start the engine as it will run away unthrottled, and look for fuel leaking at the nipple.

NOTE: the pics below are for '95+ engines. One with the old nylon fuel rail and one with the stainless steel rail.
 

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Re: How To Check for a Faulty FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

Thanks for the post Ranger. My 96 Deville started great cold but hard to start hot. Did what you said and found FPR seeping. Replaced it and starts perfect hot or cold now. Fuel mileage up too now.
 

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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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Re: How To Check for a Faulty FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

so one could assume that if it hold vacuum (like the one on my LT1) it is good? Or is it possible that it will with a small fuel leak and the vacuum gauge will suck against the tank and give me a false good reading?

I still haven't found the FPR on my Votrec Suburban 5700 still.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Discussion Starter #5
Re: How To Check for a Faulty FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

Yes. I believe if it holds vacuum, it is good.

Vortec is a different breed of animal. Had one long ago but forgot most of what I knew about it. I believe it is inside the manifold. I do remember that it had some very high fuel pressure like 65 psi or so and I always blamed that for eating fuel pumps like they where going out of style.
 

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How to check for a faulty FPR and replace it

First off thanks to those that have answered this question in the past!

My 99 STS was starting hard and would occasionaly backfire when starting. The dealership and another mechanic could not fix the problem. I finally looked on Google and found the answer here, so again a huge thanks!

I did the inital trouble shooting and had fuel dripping out of the vaccum nipple. You could also hold the vaccum hose up close to the nipple and watch the fuel be pulled through the FPR. So even if this wasn't the main probem the FPR is shot.

Please be advised that I am no where near being a professional mechanic. So doing the FPR replacement was a little scary at first since I have had bad experiences on past cars with fuel injection.

The procedure is pretty straight forward, but the one thing that I thought would be nice would be pictures of where everything is. So as I was going through the replacement on my car I took a few pictures (all are taken standing on the drivers side of the car).

1) Remove the Beauty Cover (four 1/2" nuts)


2) Under the Beauty Cover


3) De-Pressurize the fuel injection system

I stuffed a rag under the port and then used a corner of the rag and a pen cap to release the pressure (as has been noted before, it's like letting the air out of a bike tire).

I would always check to make sure this is de-pressurized, but I did notice that after sitting overnight there was no pressure in the system. When I got back from driving to the parts store it was completly pressurized (obviously).

4) Remove the FPR

Remove the vaccum hose and the large "C" clip at the base of the unit.
Make sure you have all of the parts out before installing the new unit. The old lower gromet (The smaller of the two gromets) stuck in it's installed position along with the screen filter (a pair of needle nose pliers resolved the issue).

5) Old FPR parts


6) New FPR

The AC Delco unit comes with two clips. The large "C" type clip as pictures above and another "C" clip that is not used.

Also note, when installing the large "C" type clip it should go with the smaller end on top as that is what keeps the FPR in place.

7) Re-install the beauty cover and nuts.


Pretty easy procedure, the car started right up afterwards. Now I need to wait for it to get warm and see how it works then, but I have no doubt this was the issue.
 

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Re: Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

GREAT STUFF SPUDLY!!! We should have done this long ago. Thank you very much for posting such a helpful and informative tip. I'm sure this will get moved to the Tech Tips or Technical Archive sections for all to use. Many people ask this question, and to date we don't have any replies with a photo record such as this.

Glad you were able to solve your car's starting problem using this site, a big THANK YOU for your post, and a warm welcome to Cadillac Forums... :welcome: Your first post is a great one! :thumbsup:
 

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Re: Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

Great photos, I have owned a fair number of gm cars (fords, 3 Broncos, dodge chargers 2,) but none of them have ever had a problem with the FPR. Is this a problem with the Northstar? I did not think the fuel pressure would be any greater than any other gm SEFI. Also is the fuel filter held connected by one threaded end and one plastic connector, or has gm seen the light and used two plastic clips (such as Ford uses)
 

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Re: Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

Hmmm...that reminds me. I've been meaning to check my FPR for a while now for leaks, but I've been real lazy about it. Thanks for the pics though.
 

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Just a follow up on this since it has been a few weeks since the replacement.

This has solved quite a few problems I was having with the car.
1) Hard starting, bad when cold really bad when warm
2) Backfiring
3) Surging when stopped

Now I need to work on getting the struts and shocks replaced and then on to getting a new set of tires to eliminate that damn shimmy from 65-75.
 

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Thank you!!

I recently have had all of the symptoms and more.

I first did a tune up to try and resolve the issue. The tune up helped, but we were still having all of the FPR related problems.

I just replaced the FPR and did a test drive. Runs like a dream.

Regards,
Tom Bombaci

'95 SLS
 

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Could some one please help me with a part number for the FPR so I can check and see the price on unit from gmpartsdirect.com. I am at school and do not have tools, but I am certain that this is the problem. Much appreciated. 1998 Seville SLS
 

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From the package:

ACD# 217-1629
GM# 12499841

I paid $71 with California tax for the kit from a local Cadillac dealer.

You will only need two tools for the job:

1. 1/2" ratchet or nut driver to get the beauty cover off
2. a small screw driver to pull the clamp from the FPR

It is a super easy repair.

Also, there are two types of FPR’s (according to the parts guy at the counter). They asked if I had a plastic fuel rail or the new stainless steel rail.

I had my fuel rail replaced via a recall notice. The plastic rail will eventually leak gas.

-Tom
 

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1988 Coupe Deville, 1991 Coupe Deville, 1989, 1994 Eldorado
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Hi

does the 94 N* have the fuel rails that had to be replaced?
thanks
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Discussion Starter #17
jamesmdx1 said:
Hi

does the 94 N* have the fuel rails that had to be replaced?
thanks
No. The recall is for '95 - '97.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Discussion Starter #19
The '93/'94 FPR is inside the intake manifold. Remove the top cover. Since it is inside the manifold it is subjected to manifold vacuum, hence no need for a vacuum hose. When you go key on to pressurize the fuel system, DO NOT crank the engine. If it starts, it will run away at WOT and bounce off the rev limiter as it will be unthrottled.
 
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