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LF4 Platform Master Tuner
2018 ATS-V M6
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581 Posts
I've been having issues with my car not making consistent boost ever since purchasing it a year ago. I have the Trifecta tune. I put the car in service and Track mode and hear nothing. I pulled and replaced the relay. I then swapped the relay with another one. Nothing. Where do I go from here?
Please feel free to email me directly at [email protected]. I'll try to connect you with someone in your area who owns HP Tuners. This will allow us to get a proper scan of your car and diagnose the problem.
 

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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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622 Posts
This thread describes how to run the pump and bleed the system. Do you have any specific questions?
 

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2014 XTS Platinum - White Diamond Tricoat on Very Light Platinum/Dark Urban/Cocoa
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24 Posts
This thread describes how to run the pump and bleed the system. Do you have any specific questions?
The pump does not run at all, even when in Track mode. I think I'm going to have to run 12V directly to the pump to make sure if it's the pump or not.
 

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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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622 Posts
Sorry, it was on Facebook, not in this thread:

Jumpering terminals 30 and 87 on the pump relay runs the pump continuously. The terminals are marked on the relay. Set the car to service mode by holding the start button for a few seconds. The car doesn't need to be running.
Most of the purging happens on pump restart, so do cycle it on and off by pulling the wire out of one terminals, waiting a few seconds and reinserting to restart the pump.
 

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2014 XTS Platinum - White Diamond Tricoat on Very Light Platinum/Dark Urban/Cocoa
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24 Posts
OK. I was able to make the pump run by jumping terminals 30 and 87. It does not run at all using the relay. I've tried three different ones. I'm wondering if the coolant level is simply too low. Does this system use Dexcool?
 

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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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622 Posts
OK. I was able to make the pump run by jumping terminals 30 and 87. It does not run at all using the relay. I've tried three different ones. I'm wondering if the coolant level is simply too low. Does this system use Dexcool?
Yes, dexcool. But you can use distilled water for small quantities. Its far less messy. There is probably air in the system. The pump will run when it needs to, mostly when you dont have your hood up looking at it.
 

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2018 ATS-V
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77 Posts
It's 3 posts above.
thanks
i checked it yesterday
at first it was a little bit hard to hear the pump
so i just put my hand on it and you can fell it working
i think im ok because it was working for more then a minute without stoping
 

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ATS-V
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53 Posts
The right way to bleed this system is a little bit more complicated. Just filling and venting will not remove an air bubble above the vents in the intercooler bricks on top of the engine. It takes vacuum to expand and remove the bubble. Then you 'slug fill' the system to replace that volume with fluid. I have built a system that I will post pics of soon. I need to replace the front center heat exchanger, perhaps this weekend. So I'll be using it then and will get pictures to share.
 

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The right way to bleed this system is a little bit more complicated. Just filling and venting will not remove an air bubble above the vents in the intercooler bricks on top of the engine. It takes vacuum to expand and remove the bubble. Then you 'slug fill' the system to replace that volume with fluid. I have built a system that I will post pics of soon. I need to replace the front center heat exchanger, perhaps this weekend. So I'll be using it then and will get pictures to share.
Correct, the factory procedure is to use a Vac-And-Fill along with the GE-47716-30A quick connect adapter, and the procedure says to do multiple cycles of pull a vacuum, then open the fill valve, and repeat until the return hose to the vac-and-fill system longer shows air bubbles being pulled into the catch tank of the vacuum filling system. Once it's showing a steady stream of fluid with no bubbles you've completely removed all the air and fully filled the hoses and heat exchangers.

Sure you can "burp" the system from the quick connect fill port fitting with a length of hose and the pump running and probably get most of the air out, but chances are there will still be some air trapped in the intercooler bricks since they're above the fill port and air bubbles will collect at the highest point in the system. Only way to completely eliminate all the air from the system without resorting to pulling vacuum is to fill from the highest point-- and you can't do that on these cars since the intercooler bricks are the highest point in the system and above the fill port. So that leaves multiple iterations of pulling a vacuum and then letting the vacuum draw coolant into the system as the only proper way to remove all air from the system.

I have a Vac-And-Fill, still need to pick up the GE-47716-30A adapter ($195... ugh.) Figure my 2016 is about due for fresh coolant and fresh fluid in the intercooler system. Also, the factory procedure for replacing the intercooler fluid calls for pulling the front bumper to access the drain plug on the lower driver's side of the center heat exchanger. Unfortunately that drain plug is partially blocked by an air deflector and I don't think you can cheat and access it through the lower grill without removing the front bumper. I may just lower the fender liners and disconnect the lower hoses on the outer two heat exchangers to drain the system since I'm only "freshening" the fluid.
 

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2016 ATS-V Coupe (Catti-V)
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1,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
The right way to bleed this system is a little bit more complicated. Just filling and venting will not remove an air bubble above the vents in the intercooler bricks on top of the engine. It takes vacuum to expand and remove the bubble. Then you 'slug fill' the system to replace that volume with fluid. I have built a system that I will post pics of soon. I need to replace the front center heat exchanger, perhaps this weekend. So I'll be using it then and will get pictures to share.
The bottom line is how it effects your IM temps. Burping the system and backfilling with more coolant does the trick so if there are a few bubbles left they aren't effecting IM temps. Doing it right for most people means taking it to the dealer and most of the time they end up causing more issues then they fix. If you do it the self help way and your IM temps are still high then taking it to the dealer may be your only option.
 

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2016 ATS-V 4-door, 2016 ATS-V 2-door
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528 Posts
Thats an additive you can use but it's not required. I'm probably running a 60/40 mix now rather than a 50/50. That's fine since it might have changed my freeze point from -30 to -20. Not so worried about that in FL. All the anti corrosion properties are still there.
Keep in mind that once you reduce antifreeze down to 30% or less you need some Red Line Water Wetter for its corrosion inhibiters, anti-foaming additive and pump lube. The wetting agent in RLWW helps with heat transfer, too.
 

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2016 ATS-V Coupe (Catti-V)
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Discussion Starter #36
Just a heads up to everyone. I was monitoring my OBD readings and noticed my intake manifold temp was getting a little high. I also noticed that when I accelerated the temperatures didn't drop. Normally when you accelerate the cooling flows more through the system and you'll see an instant drop in the intake manifold temperatures. It finally reached a 160゚ in town so at that point I knew I had air in my system again. I went home and did the coolant bleed like a described in the beginning and immediately got a bunch of air out of the system. My coolant pump was Only running for 5 seconds then cycling off so that was a quick indication I had cavitation. Once I burp the air out and filled back up with coolant the pump stayed on continuous. While I was doing this I noticed that the coolant fill valve that rotates had a slight drip every so often between the point where The nozzle that swivels goes into the large bolt into the intake manifold. I'm suspect that this is also a source for air slowly leaking into the system. I imagine as it gets colder the metal shrinks and opens that gap a little more. It has gotten colder here so it makes sense. I also noticed that if you apply a little pressure to that rotating coolant port it will drip. As soon as I turn it to its side and leave it alone it's fine. My advice would be after doing the coolant bleed to turn the valve to its side. When its straight up, like you would have it to fill with coolant, the nozzle makes contact with the engine cover once you put the engine cover back on. This is constantly putting a slight bit of pressure on that rotating joint and is possibly opening a gap. If the fluid can drip out air conditionally go in.

Also, monitor your intake temps every so often. You should never be at 160° and you should always see the temps drop as you accelerate.
 

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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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Thanks for the heads up. I found it a bit annerving how that piece rotates freely yet is expected to make a seal.
 

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2016 ATS-V Coupe (Catti-V)
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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks for the heads up. I found it a bit annerving how that piece rotates freely yet is expected to make a seal.
I drove for while and there were no fluid leaks. The moment I put a little pressure on the fill neck it would drip. Turning it sideways before putting the engine cover on is key.
 

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If that swivel fitting is leaking at the swivel joint when you put a little sideways pressure on it, something is amiss... probably an o-ring going bad. If the swivel fitting is OK, it can hold both a vacuum test and a pressure test with no leakage even with the weight of the quick connect adapter and tester hanging on it.

GM sells the swivel fitting by itself for $170. I haven't removed the swivel fitting from the water manifold, but I wonder if it's possible to disassemble it and replace only the o-rings for the swivel portion.
 

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It appears to me, few are aware a kit was created to make filling the intercooler easy. It’s been out a while now...https://www.tapouttuning.com/product/tapout-ats-v-intercooler-fill-bleed-kit/
 
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