[spedaleden]

Or do you just keep adding fluid when needed and wait till the motor starts slipping?

 

[darkman]

Or do you just keep adding fluid when needed and wait till the motor starts slipping?

I don't think it works that way on the clutch. I assume that you are basing the question on the fact that loss of brake fluid is an indicator of brake pad wear. In the case of brakes the lower fluid level results (potentially) in reduced braking force at the pad. In contrast, a reduction in clutch fluid decreases the capacity to disengage the clutch. As a practical matter the clutch hardware can be good to 60-80K miles if driven conservatively while the life of the clutch fluid is much shorter than that. You would expect to change out the clutch fluid several times over the 60-80k mile life cycle.

 

[spedaleden]

I don't think it works that way on the clutch. I assume that you are basing the question on the fact that loss of brake fluid is an indicator of brake pad wear. In the case of brakes the lower fluid level results (potentially) in reduced braking force at the pad. In contrast, a reduction in clutch fluid decreases the capacity to disengage the clutch. As a practical matter the clutch hardware can be good to 60-80K miles if driven conservatively while the life of the clutch fluid is much shorter than that. You would expect to change out the clutch fluid several times over the 60-80k mile life cycle.

Thanks

I was thinking that when fluid got to min on clutch resivor it was time for clutch. Where does that fluid go. Is it heat from the clutch that it burns up fluid?

 

[Guest]

if you are losing fluid then your master or slave cyl is leaking. it wont necessarily hurt the clutch at all, nor is an indication of clutch wear.

if your hydraulics aren't up to par it will eventually start grinding gears and you can damage your syncro's in the trans.

 

[darkman]

Thanks

I was thinking that when fluid got to min on clutch resivor it was time for clutch. Where does that fluid go. Is it heat from the clutch that it burns up fluid?

I do not know where the fulid goes. However, I did a search on "clutch" and located an old thread that I remembered - see post #22.


http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum.../153068-clutch-reservoir-low-fluid-level.html

 

[atdeneve]

Yeah, the reason for the repeated and inevitable loss of fluid was never actually pinpointed in that thread.

I know that a tech and I were kinda scratchin our heads about it a couple years back (it actually bothered him cuz he couldn't find any signs of an obvious leak anywhere and it just didn't make sense - good dude, he was). I was hoping that an answer might turn up in that thread, but it still remains a mystery.

One thing's fur shure. Even if we don't know why or where it goes, make a habit of, at least, swappin out the fluid in the little (excuse for a) reservoir, every now and then. Pretty quick and easy.

 

[darkman]

The amount fluid in the clutch system is quite small as compared with the brake system. It is not unlike the fluid capacities of modern motorcylcles with hydraulic clutches and brakes, but the motorcycle systems tend to have all metal master cylinders with o-ring lids that are held on by threaded metal fasteners (screws & bolts). The V clutch master cylinder, in contrast is had tightened plastic. But the mystery remains.

 

[spedaleden]

Thanks guys

Can anyone tell me where the bleeder is for the slave cylinder.

 

[CadzillaTN]

if you are losing fluid then your master or slave cyl is leaking.

I agree, but dealer swears no leaks

Thanks guys

Can anyone tell me where the bleeder is for the slave cylinder.

good question.


I had complete loss of fluid. bone dry.. the dealer said system had no leaks and wouldn't acknowledge that air could have even entered the line even though im convinced the clutch is not fiully dsiengaging. They couldn't find a shifting problem. BUT-, they'd be happy to bleed it for 125 bucks!. (note: I realize thats just the labor rate and not a ripoff)

I went to many places in town thinking I could get it done cheaper- no one wanted to touch it...I got all sorts of frustrating responses:
-"thats a stick shift? We aint touchin that" good
- "that valve is inside the bell housin. we gotta pull the tranny. its gonna be expensive. why do you want to do this anyway?" you dont say.
- "I aint got nothin to fit that." what?
- "your master or slave is leakin. you caint just lose fluid without a leak. we can price the new parts for you" yeah right, f you
- "what seems to be the problem? are you having issues? yeah, and the cadillac dealer couldn't find them but you can
- "we can sure try. itll probably be 100 bucks or so." sure. take a shot in the dark on my V...nope

no one could comprehend that I just wanted the f^&n clutch bled??. I now know that I must do it myself but I didnt want to. I haven't seen much info on the subject even after a detailed search

 

[ctsv154]

See the little hole with the stainless line is coming out at? That is the hole were the bleeder is normally.

This is a pic with no bleeder and no spacer showing the alignment of the bleeder to the hole. The little short stub sticking out of the slave is just the adapter for the the extended bleeder. The original bleeder almost reaches the edge of the bell housing. Now just imagine this in the car. Its kind of hard to get to but its doable. I've done it. Thats why I bought the extended bleeder!

 

[darkman]

Paraphrased from the Service Manual.(7-1485)

1. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir.
2. Stroke the clutch pedal from top to down position at least 15 times.
3. With the clutch pedal depressed, open the concentric slave cylinder bleeder valve to release trapped air. The bleeder valve is located on the bell housing.
4. Close the bleeder valve and slowly return the clutch pedal to the up stop.
5. Open the bleeder valve and slowly depress the clutch pedal from the top to fully depressed until the fluid escapes through the bleeder.
6. Close the bleeder valve.
7. Return the clutch pedal to the up position.
8. Depress the clutch pedal. (top to down)
9. Open the bleeder valve and allow air bubbles to escape.
10. Close the bleeder valve.
Keep checking the fluid reservoir and refill between steps.
11. Repeat steps 7-10 until the fluid without bubbles escapes through the bleeder valve.

 

[CadiBlk]

please poast your findings in here as I would like to freshin my clutch

 

[CadiBlk]

oh [email protected] me, ty 154 and darkman.

 

[CadzillaTN]

oh [email protected] me, ty 154 and darkman.

agreed. good stuff!...

154, is that hole on top of the transmission and if so which side of the car? also, does it stick out just far enough to attach the hose and get a wrench on? after looking at that pic it seems like you'd have to have a nicely offset wrench.
lastly, if I use jackstands where should I position myself under the car for the best leverage?


thanks

 

[ctsv154]

agreed. good stuff!...

154, is that hole on top of the transmission and if so which side of the car? also, does it stick out just far enough to attach the hose and get a wrench on? after looking at that pic it seems like you'd have to have a nicely offset wrench.
lastly, if I use jackstands where should I position myself under the car for the best leverage?


thanks

The hole is on divers side toward the top. I remember somebody saying they used a hose to bleed with but I was lazy and didnt use one :shhh:

If I were you, I would lay with my legs hanging out the passengers side of the car with your head facing the drivers side looking up into the small void by the trans. You should be able to see the black line for the slave coming out. The hole right under it is the bleeder. You cant physically see it but you can feel it. I used a standard offset wrench but it was difficult. Its been so long since I have bled with no extended bleeder I think I used the shortest wrench I could find and it was still a really tight fit. Only a couple flats at a time.

 

[Guest]

since it's losing fluid it is bleeding all on its own, so how bout just keep pouring it in until you are ready to replace the master or slave cyl.

 

[spedaleden]

See the little hole with the stainless line is coming out at? That is the hole were the bleeder is normally.

This is a pic with no bleeder and no spacer showing the alignment of the bleeder to the hole. The little short stub sticking out of the slave is just the adapter for the the extended bleeder. The original bleeder almost reaches the edge of the bell housing. Now just imagine this in the car. Its kind of hard to get to but its doable. I've done it. Thats why I bought the extended bleeder!

You the Man, Thank You very much!!!!! :thumbsup:

 

[spedaleden]

Paraphrased from the Service Manual.(7-1485)

1. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir.
2. Stroke the clutch pedal from top to down position at least 15 times.
3. With the clutch pedal depressed, open the concentric slave cylinder bleeder valve to release trapped air. The bleeder valve is located on the bell housing.
4. Close the bleeder valve and slowly return the clutch pedal to the up stop.
5. Open the bleeder valve and slowly depress the clutch pedal from the top to fully depressed until the fluid escapes through the bleeder.
6. Close the bleeder valve.
7. Return the clutch pedal to the up position.
8. Depress the clutch pedal. (top to down)
9. Open the bleeder valve and allow air bubbles to escape.
10. Close the bleeder valve.
Keep checking the fluid reservoir and refill between steps.
11. Repeat steps 7-10 until the fluid without bubbles escapes through the bleeder valve.

Thank You for the helpful information.

 

[CadzillaTN]

well guys I had my V on a lift today...full access to everything. I realized 2 things:

1. Bleeding the clutch isn't a PITA. Its near impossible for the weekend mechanic.
2. $125 to do this is a STEAL. I will have the dealership do this on the next visit.

 

[ctsv154]

yeah its a fun job. I love my extended bleeder! It comes out and goes across the top of the trans and then down on the passengers side were it is bled very easily!