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· Registered
2006 SRX 2000 Deville 1994 Seville STS
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71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having tranny problems and I was told by a tranny shop in my area that it's an electrical problem. I took it to a GM TEch who told me i needed an ignition swith. Not the part you stick your key in. Does anyone know how to replace this?
 

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Eldorado
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33 Posts
thats the part that runs under your steering wheel it is what clicks whenever you turn on your brights. i dont know how that would have anything to do with the tranny problems but who knows. it does hold a small junction of wires that pass into the firewall so maybe thats the problem. but anyhow that is what he was talking about i hope that helps you.
 

· Registered
1997 Seville STS, 2000 Seville STS
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1,694 Posts
The actual ignition switch is on the top of the steering column above the brake pedal. The ignition lock cylinder is the part you put the key into. The lock is connected to the switch by a metal rod that operates the contacts in the switch as you turn the key.
 

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I removed the knee bolster and a metal plate under the steering column now where do i find the ignition switch
F*cked up no one ever got back to you... I too needed to remove the ignition switch and plan on making a youtube video with the removal from 1994 deville because i have a no start no crank & have completely checked all relays, starter, neutral safety switch, voltage, battery condition, ground wiring, all that fuses too, i know my motor isn't locked cause all i did was get gas & it didnt restart, my fuel pump,filter, spark plugs, alternator is good but i dod just wire in a new double din touch radio and tryna be cool i tied the ignition, constant, together on the harness so my radio and speakers would run even tho my car is off lol it worked forsure had it for months no problem just unplugged the harness at night but i forgot sometimes had to get jumps in order to start the car think this may have fried my ignition switch in the process of all this lmao more than likely uploaded by today or tomorrow cause im not done but put into words in case i have trouble attaching the link here. First off you'll need a 8mm socket & a 10 mm socket forsure & maybe 2 smaller ones just can't recall cause im not infront of the car you'll see to black bolts holding the black cover above the break pedal after you remove that you'll see all the wires ignore them for now you directly under your steering wheel you'll see what i like to call a double chin under your steering wheel its made of the same material of the dash board pull it down should pop right off the clips if you look you'll see a metal plate should be two 8mm bolts holding it together remove those the plate comes off, if you look at your new harness you'll see a screw on it if look at the clumps of wires under the wheel close the brake pedal you'll see the same colors of wires connected to a black harness it also has a screw in the middle which you have to remove to uplug the old ignition switch But hold up make sure your battery is unplugged dont want anyone getting hurt lol i forgot too so its okay but i just happen to have a socket that fit a screw driver matched it to the screw on the new harness looked by the brake pedal again you'll see the black harness if you have the right tool in between the wires unscrew the harness should pop off after. But here comes the sucky part depends on your level of experience but i feel with this info anyone can do it.... you have to drop the steering wheel meaning if the follow the steering column into the firewall right by the break pedal you'll see 3 bolts one has a wire grounded to it if that helps you find it but i dont remove it use a 10mm socket and slowly those bolts and you'll noti your steering wheel start to fall but dont trip your seat will catch it no problem but connected to that black harness hopefully you unscrewed if you look on the steering column you see the ignition switch held in by 2 screws, just a warning our cars are old as cheese so there may be a lil rusty wire right next to the bolts holding the switch in place no clue in the f*ck what it goes to but be careful not to break it when you remove the switch, just unplug the corresponding harnesses remove and install the new one repeat steps backwards plugging and screwing everything back in i literally was mad for week looking for info on the switch & didnt find sh*t but i stopped at the removal of the screws of just so i can put it all back together and make a video showing the world how to remove it, it probably takes less times to remove these things than it took you to read this lol but i even made a account just to post this i hope it reaches alot of people struggling with this issue, i plan on making various other post about cadillac deville stuff 4.9l of course cause ive had over 13 devilles N* included
 

· Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
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22,633 Posts
F*cked up no one ever got back to you... I too needed to remove the ignition switch and plan on making a youtube video with the removal from 1994 deville because i have a no start no crank & have completely checked all relays, starter, neutral safety switch, voltage, battery condition, ground wiring, all that fuses too, i know my motor isn't locked cause all i did was get gas & it didnt restart, my fuel pump,filter, spark plugs, alternator is good but i dod just wire in a new double din touch radio and tryna be cool i tied the ignition, constant, together on the harness so my radio and speakers would run even tho my car is off lol it worked forsure had it for months no problem just unplugged the harness at night but i forgot sometimes had to get jumps in order to start the car think this may have fried my ignition switch in the process of all this lmao more than likely uploaded by today or tomorrow cause im not done but put into words in case i have trouble attaching the link here. First off you'll need a 8mm socket & a 10 mm socket forsure & maybe 2 smaller ones just can't recall cause im not infront of the car you'll see to black bolts holding the black cover above the break pedal after you remove that you'll see all the wires ignore them for now you directly under your steering wheel you'll see what i like to call a double chin under your steering wheel its made of the same material of the dash board pull it down should pop right off the clips if you look you'll see a metal plate should be two 8mm bolts holding it together remove those the plate comes off, if you look at your new harness you'll see a screw on it if look at the clumps of wires under the wheel close the brake pedal you'll see the same colors of wires connected to a black harness it also has a screw in the middle which you have to remove to uplug the old ignition switch But hold up make sure your battery is unplugged dont want anyone getting hurt lol i forgot too so its okay but i just happen to have a socket that fit a screw driver matched it to the screw on the new harness looked by the brake pedal again you'll see the black harness if you have the right tool in between the wires unscrew the harness should pop off after. But here comes the sucky part depends on your level of experience but i feel with this info anyone can do it.... you have to drop the steering wheel meaning if the follow the steering column into the firewall right by the break pedal you'll see 3 bolts one has a wire grounded to it if that helps you find it but i dont remove it use a 10mm socket and slowly those bolts and you'll noti your steering wheel start to fall but dont trip your seat will catch it no problem but connected to that black harness hopefully you unscrewed if you look on the steering column you see the ignition switch held in by 2 screws, just a warning our cars are old as cheese so there may be a lil rusty wire right next to the bolts holding the switch in place no clue in the f*ck what it goes to but be careful not to break it when you remove the switch, just unplug the corresponding harnesses remove and install the new one repeat steps backwards plugging and screwing everything back in i literally was mad for week looking for info on the switch & didnt find sh*t but i stopped at the removal of the screws of just so i can put it all back together and make a video showing the world how to remove it, it probably takes less times to remove these things than it took you to read this lol but i even made a account just to post this i hope it reaches alot of people struggling with this issue, i plan on making various other post about cadillac deville stuff 4.9l of course cause ive had over 13 devilles N* included
=========================
NOTE -
you are responding to a thread that died 11 YEARS ago -
 

· Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150
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80,388 Posts
Your unintelligible posts, with no punctuation or capitalization, are practically impossible to read. The "old thread" admonition comes because the member whom you quoted has not been active for 7 years, so we doubt he/she will see your rambling novel. Please hover over a member's avatar to see site and personal history to get an idea of whether or not they'll ever see your posts. Thanks, and Welcome Aboard !!!

Your no-start problems - the original head unit is part of the car's TheftLock, content theft, security, and serial data bus systems. If you don't use the correct jumpers, connectors, and harnesses for an aftermarket install you may cause the car to lock itself into a no-start theft condition. Talk to th guys at Crutchfield.
 
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