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2005 CTS-V, K&N, Borla, short throw w/ Holden knob, hotchkis
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing cutouts and am looking for the best (easiest) place to run the wires through. The DMH come with nice terminations already soldered on. I hate to cut these to fish wires through.

I was looking at the large 4" big a$$ rubber grommet for the main harness just above and behind the clutch pedal. Man that thing is deep! Is that the best place? I'd have to cut the clips off the wires and fish through somehow without losing in between the double wall of the grommit.

Any thoughts or feelings where to pull wires through? tricks of the trade? the cutout motors will be just behind the cats.


off topic question, what would i need to do to only allow the motors to run with the 12V on? The switch I have is illuminated and I only want it to to be lit when power is on to prevent drain (obviously). The power source should be something that is also only on with the key on. What should I safely tie it into?
 

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'05 CTS-V, '00 SLS, 98 SLS, 89 Eldo, '80 Eldo
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I'm installing cutouts and am looking for the best (easiest) place to run the wires through. The DMH come with nice terminations already soldered on. I hate to cut these to fish wires through.

I was looking at the large 4" big a$$ rubber grommet for the main harness just above and behind the clutch pedal. Man that thing is deep! Is that the best place? I'd have to cut the clips off the wires and fish through somehow without losing in between the double wall of the grommit.

Any thoughts or feelings where to pull wires through? tricks of the trade? the cutout motors will be just behind the cats.


off topic question, what would i need to do to only allow the motors to run with the 12V on? The switch I have is illuminated and I only want it to to be lit when power is on to prevent drain (obviously). The power source should be something that is also only on with the key on. What should I safely tie it into?
I used that big grommet for a few things. But you will have to cut the wires. I stuck a couple big scewdrivers through it to make an opening for the wires. This is usually not a good idea since it can cut and ground the wires, but I've had no problems in the two years I've had it like this.

There is an accessory under the dash but I'll be damned if I can remember that far back. IF you look through the Maggie install instructions, it shows you haw you can use a spare fuse socket it the under-hood fuse panel.
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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I also used the big grommet for the steering I think it was. I used a sharp knife and made a slit in both sides and fished it through. I ran a pre-terminated connector through as well. It was a small one for the electronic boost gauge.
 

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2005 Cadillac CTS-V Platinum
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3rd'ing the "big grommet for the steering". Ran all of my stereo cables up through there. Punched a hole through the bottom and it has been working fine for years.
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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Also, there is a connector under the dash with switched power. I don't know the current draw of the cutouts and I don't know what the switched power runs too but it's not a very large wire. I used it for my electronic boost gauge but for two electric motors you may run the 12V switched to a relay and pick up a dedicated line from the fuse block. Rather be safe then sorry.
 

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2016 CTS-V, 2010 CTS-V 6MT (Sold), 2007 CTS-V (Sold)
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If it were me I would run my own fused 12v line from battery to a basic relay and from the relay to your button/cutout. To engage the relay, you could tap in to a fuse or switched connector that is hot with the key.

Unless you can find a nice gauge wire that has switched power, I would go the relay route and run your own 12v line to be safe.
 

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2005 CTS-V, K&N, Borla, short throw w/ Holden knob, hotchkis
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Discussion Starter #7
If it were me I would run my own fused 12v line from battery to a basic relay and from the relay to your button/cutout. To engage the relay, you could tap in to a fuse or switched connector that is hot with the key.

Unless you can find a nice gauge wire that has switched power, I would go the relay route and run your own 12v line to be safe.
That is what I want to do.. Sounds like I will cut the ends off and poke the wires through wrapped along a long screwdriver. I will go through the steering column boot. What is a good position? 6-o'clock? how close to the column? Equidistant between column and edge of grommit?

I will utilize an in-line fuse for protection and utilize a relay. What is a good tap point for the relay? Suggestions what a good item that is on with the key I can get from the box? The relay only needs low current to trigger.

thanks for the advice... Doing these at same time as G-force econo axle, gen 4 diff, and replaceing my CS diff / trans mount.
 

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2005 CTS-V, K&N, Borla, short throw w/ Holden knob, hotchkis
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906 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I will do the fused relay route. anyone know a good switched lead I can safey tap into? where? is there room in the fuse box? Looking to be a switched lead that has power with the key on... thanks guys.
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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There is a connector that hangs under the steering column that has switched power. Dont recall the color but should be easy to find with a simple light probe.
 

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I don't know how much current you are looking to draw, but the lighter socket always has power from the factory. I don't think it will allow large currents though.

An easy source for ignition power is on the HVAC harness. On mine, it was the brown wire. Could be different on yours though. And again, I would not draw big current from it.

both of the above were plenty of current for my speakerphone kit. But the HVAC was not enough for my laptop. The lighter socket was.
 

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I think I pulled off the brown wire under the dash. Sounds familiar. That would be plenty to pull a relay closed.
 

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It's probably the same lead that powers all the switched accessories behind the dash.

fwiw, you can also get retained accessory power from the lighter socket if you move a fuse and plug in a relay in the engine bay panel.
 

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2005 CTS-V, K&N, Borla, short throw w/ Holden knob, hotchkis
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Discussion Starter #13
It's probably the same lead that powers all the switched accessories behind the dash.

fwiw, you can also get retained accessory power from the lighter socket if you move a fuse and plug in a relay in the engine bay panel.
yeah... this.. please tell me more. any pics. so i can relocate the lighter power in the fuse box by moving a fuse to an open spot? then plug in a new relay to the now vacant lighter spot? i just wan to pull enough to close a relay with key on. I was pulling fused power and ground from the battery... unless there is a cleaner way. the switch i have is illuminated and i only want it to light when car is on.
 
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