How accurate is the g-meter, I hit 1.04 G

Before I had the car serviced and the meter reset I also hit 1.04 R and 1.08 or so L running G3D3's. However this was only while turning rapidly on a hill. I can not replicate those numbers on a flat surface. The best I have done on a flat surface is 0.96. I suspect the G-force meter somehow can be tricked slightly by the cominbation of vertical and horizontal forces. Still, 0.96 on nearly shot tires and outside temps of 70 degrees is pretty impressive or this 4000lbs car. I keep the tires a little overinflated as well.

The g meter is probably pretty accurate. It does measure peaks though, which is usually a bit different then sustained g's.

^^was just gonna say that...I've peaked mine at 1.24L w/hot bars, but sustained...no way, not stock at least.

I'm sure it's very accurate... but the radius of the curve will impact the reading, and also if the curve is banked (you can pull a lot higher G's in a banked turn).

And you cant compare it to R&T or C&D G numbers... as they use a flat, fixed radius skid pad (300ft)... which we dont have access to.

So basically, it's accurate but useless.

What they said. Best I've pulled on a flat surface was a .96 right and .95 left- I was bummed when I had to disconnect my battery for a PCM swap and lost them..

With Falken tires at Autobahn in Joilet last year I hit 1.18 and 1.12 both sides. Still looking at them as I head back there in 2 weeks.

It holds better than I thought it would stock.

There is quite a difference between a sustained g reading on a completely level sufrace and what you get on the road and at the track with quick, sudden corners can give you a higher reading than a turn near the limit at a sustained speed. DO NOT try to compare the readings on your meter to readings you see in magazines.

thebigjimsho said:

DO NOT try to compare the readings on your meter to readings you see in magazines.

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or with Yoko A048's this weekend...

The Tony Show said:

What they said. Best I've pulled on a flat surface was a .96 right and .95 left- I was bummed when I had to disconnect my battery for a PCM swap and lost them..

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That's great on RSA's Tony!

Dreamin said:

I'm sure it's very accurate... but the radius of the curve will impact the reading, and also if the curve is banked (you can pull a lot higher G's in a banked turn).

And you cant compare it to R&T or C&D G numbers... as they use a flat, fixed radius skid pad (300ft)... which we dont have access to.

So basically, it's accurate but useless.

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It was a curve that was banked. Oh well. I am currently having trouble with the stability control, though. Even at a low speed curve it will sometime kick on and is getting to be annoying because I don't believe it is something that should be happening. Do I take it to the dealer to get it checked out or is it something else.
Is this happening to anyone else?

The race car is at 1.27 both ways. As far as I can tell that is the max of the meter. Our data acquisition shows sustained cornering forces above that number all the time.

Dennisscars said:

or with Yoko A048's this weekend...

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1.65 :thumbsup:
Is that the V or your Atom?

JMBCTSV said:

The race car is at 1.27 both ways. As far as I can tell that is the max of the meter. Our data acquisition shows sustained cornering forces above that number all the time.

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My car is stock and I havent gotten over that either. I was at Shenandoah circuit last week (and on the skid pad there)

1.24 <---> 1.27

BFG KDW2's

Now I want to go out and do some serious right turns to get it up to 1.27 on the left.

el_bandido said:

It was a curve that was banked. Oh well. I am currently having trouble with the stability control, though. Even at a low speed curve it will sometime kick on and is getting to be annoying because I don't believe it is something that should be happening. Do I take it to the dealer to get it checked out or is it something else.
Is this happening to anyone else?

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It's most likely a steering wheel position sensor or a wheelspeed sensor. It's a bitch to diagnose since it doesn't store a code, but I'd have them check the steering position with a Tech 2- that's usually the culprit for random Stabilitrak activation.

The Tony Show said:

It's most likely a steering wheel position sensor or a wheelspeed sensor. It's a bitch to diagnose since it doesn't store a code, but I'd have them check the steering position with a Tech 2- that's usually the culprit for random Stabilitrak activation.

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Thanks for the info. I will have to go to the dealer now.

JMBCTSV said:

The race car is at 1.27 both ways. As far as I can tell that is the max of the meter. Our data acquisition shows sustained cornering forces above that number all the time.

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My meter will read as high as 1.28 rt but never above 1.27 left.

Does anybody know exactly what the meter is measuring? I can think of different ways to measure which will give different results.

The precision of the measurement seens to be about .06 or so, at least at low g forces. My high reading is about .85. I haven't been trying yet.

Mine only reads .91 - .80... clearly I'm not driving the car hard enough. :lol:

JFC said:

Does anybody know exactly what the meter is measuring? I can think of different ways to measure which will give different results.

The precision of the measurement seens to be about .06 or so, at least at low g forces. My high reading is about .85. I haven't been trying yet.

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Its measuring the lateral g's that the car is being subjected to. Its part of the StabiliTrak package which measures throttle input, steering angle, lateral acceleration, and yaw rates to determine how to keep the car going straight.

We have a read out as to what the lateral g's are. I think itd be interesting to see yaw rates too, but all that data is just for fun.