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08 CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #1
I intended to post this thread 2 yrs ago after performing the repair as a preventive measure, but saw no need to rush until two recent threads suggesting some might find it very helpful. 2008 CTS.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I believe I removed the wiper assembly because the shop manual instructed to do so. It does provide more clearance to work. To clear up some confusion, the gauge failure is referring to the failure of my fuel pressure gauge and the temporary conversion of a compression test gauge to fuel pressure duty, in the associated picture, which of course is from a separate in tank fuel pump replacement.

The clear view of the components is a picture that I found on the net, to give better perspective of what's in the blind spot.

Make sure you use a torque wrench and make sure it's in good calibration, you don't want to take any chances with "Tight enough" here because of the high fuel pressures, especially if someone else will be driving the car.

Some times I'm not sure how my wife will respond if the car misbehaves and the motor is still running, will she pull over if a fire develops under the hood, or speed up and try to blow it out. Just kidding, she'd pull over, and park it neatly in a parking space next to other cars, maybe not. It's okay, she doesn't visit this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There's a picture of the end of the torque wrench connected to a 17 mm crow foot immediately above just ahead of the picture with the pressure gauge.
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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Ok I purchased some today at Harbor Freight. I really need one of their bigger tool boxes...
Probably will purchase that instead of the new MT Bike I was looking at...

Keep trying to shove more tools into a tiny craftsman tool box just doesn't work... lol...
Think I might take off work early tomorrow to work on my car and get this swapped out..
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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Ok, I am ALMOST done with mine.. Or atleast ALMOST have it removed...
The LFX is similar but a little different. The low pressure line is a little less complex. Just a line with a flex piece in the line. I will take a picture. Removing the wiper assembly was real simple.

A tip about removing the coolant line...
It comes from the coolant over flow container so if you follow the flexible line with your hands until you feel the clamp the hard line starts right there and the bolt you need to remove is right there. I spent almost an hour trying to find where that line went and once I found it, it was easy. Also, the 10mm bolt holds it tight but it is an Oring seal so be careful when you pull it out that you don't tear up the O-ring. I didn't loose any coolant from mine that I could see.

I loosened up the 10mm bolt on the top of the pump but did not remove it yet. Gave up for the night and still have to remove the low pressure line yet. Just can't get the right combination together to get the stupid thing loose. All of the lines were real easy to disconnect once you broke them free. Both of the bolts on the low pressure line were tight until you almost had the bolt completely loose and the same with the coolant line bolt.

So for tomorrow It is just finishing up taking the low pressure line off, removing the 10mm bolt on the bottom and removing the old pump without loosing the cam roller...

So far nothing has been hard but it has been a learning experience.

Rodney
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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Think I am giving up on mine. I can ALMOST reach the bottom bolt but it is really hard to get to with my big hands and arms. I think I am going to have to wait until I have the money and tow the car to a local mechanic and have them finish the job. Even if I can reach the bolt I won't be able to get it back in when I am assembling it back together.

Will be a couple weeks before I can do that unfortunately. So I guess i will be driving my truck to work the next couple weeks.

Rodney
 

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cts4 2008 DI, cts 2005 3.6(totaled)
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I didnt remove the wiper motor and hood. Only intake manifold and valve cover , I was able to reach the bottom bolt . Just be patient and use ur creativity. Took me 4 hours. Just for bottom bolt alone , i think 1h30
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Think I am giving up on mine. I can ALMOST reach the bottom bolt but it is really hard to get to with my big hands and arms. I think I am going to have to wait until I have the money and tow the car to a local mechanic and have them finish the job. Even if I can reach the bolt I won't be able to get it back in when I am assembling it back together.

Will be a couple weeks before I can do that unfortunately. So I guess i will be driving my truck to work the next couple weeks.

Rodney
If you think it will give you more space, place a folded comforter on the windshield and see if disconnecting the hood strut will allow you to safely raise it further for more room.

The nice thing about the the fuel pump gasket is that it holds the screws in place, so you thread them through it a short ways before putting the pump in place.

I suspect you may not have the right flexibility in your tools. Just in case, it's almost a must that you switch to the smaller 1/4" drive socket wrench with a couple of extensions short to medium, short and deep well 10 mm socket and universal/swivel joint to make the angle for the bottom bolt.

You may also be able to make use of a small 10 mm wrench. I have a set of small wrenches that are about 1/8" thick and 3-3.5" long. I purchased a 300 piece Craftsman tool set from Sears about 25yrs ago and everything I needed for the removal was in that set except for the torque wrench.

A last ditch effort that may give you the space you need, might be to remove the bolt(s) from the tail end of the tranny mount and see if you can carefully lift up on the end of the transmission a little to get more clearance up top. I did not need to do this so if you try it make sure you can do so without damaging anything below.

You may also need to put a thick covering over the top portion of the engine area and fender and lay on top of it to gain access. I'm not sure if I did that for the pump, or the fuel injector replacement.

You're so far along that I'd find a kid with brains and smaller hands before giving a shop a Christmas present. I have three small nephews to grab by the ankle and stick in that tight space.

You're almost done, look it over and find the right tools if you don't already have them.
 

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Going to give it one last shot on Saturday. Would be nice if I could lift the rear end of the engine or move it forward about an inch or so. The Gasket I have does NOT grab ahold of the bolt... I have been able to get the Ratchet I have onto the bolt with a very short extension but when I tried to turn it the socket just fell off the bolt. We shall see... When I reinstall I will install the top bolt first and turn it in a bit before trying to install the bottom bolt. I spoke with Corey a little and he said he had to lay on top of the engine to do his. Just a very frustrating thing to do.

Rodney
 

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2013 Black Diamond CTS4 Premium Coupe (sold-09 CTS4 DI Black Raven/Ebony)
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I had an 85 Grand Am. The rear 3 plugs were a real pain and not only did I have to lay on the engine to get to them....the wires were encased in a metal bracket and the only way to remove them was to cut them. I feel your pain brother.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Going to give it one last shot on Saturday. Would be nice if I could lift the rear end of the engine or move it forward about an inch or so. The Gasket I have does NOT grab ahold of the bolt... I have been able to get the Ratchet I have onto the bolt with a very short extension but when I tried to turn it the socket just fell off the bolt. We shall see... When I reinstall I will install the top bolt first and turn it in a bit before trying to install the bottom bolt. I spoke with Corey a little and he said he had to lay on top of the engine to do his. Just a very frustrating thing to do.

Rodney
I missed the AWD application earlier, so tipping the tail end of the transmission up a little probably wouldn't be a good idea. AWD may also be playing into some of the difficulty considering the engine mounts are different between RWD and AWD applications which may affect engine position enough to make it more challenging to remove. Don't forget the universal joint for the socket and place strips of tape inside the socket to help keep it on the bolt if necessary.

Just in case you have not, dismount the coolant over flow bottle if it is in the way, or can afford you more clearance.
 

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I have everything possible out of the way.. The low pressure fuel line, the high pressure fuel line, the coolant line... All are off... Moved the one wire harness that lays on top of there... Here are a couple pictures of where I am... I can probably remove the rail pressure sensor for a little more room too...
571775

20190817_091322.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's the problem, on probably all of the LLT motors, that high pressure sensor is at the opposite end of the fuel rail out front. You're in uncharted territory for me at this juncture.
 

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Ok, so how much of a PITA is it to remove the fuel rail? If I can remove the fuel rail on the drivers side it should make things a whole lot easier. Looks like there are 4 13mm bolts holding it on but I am assuming I am not seeing the injectors or something. I will look at how to remove the fuel rails but just curious if anyone else has done them. The LFX has the crossover pipe integrated into the feed line from the pump.

Will make this from a difficulty of 9 to about a 4 if I can get that fuel rail out.

Looks like they should come right off the injectors. Reading for the LLT it says to rebuild the injectors if the fuel rail is pulled but I suspect that is unnecissary. Especially if I plan to up size the injectors down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, so how much of a PITA is it to remove the fuel rail? If I can remove the fuel rail on the drivers side it should make things a whole lot easier. Looks like there are 4 13mm bolts holding it on but I am assuming I am not seeing the injectors or something. I will look at how to remove the fuel rails but just curious if anyone else has done them. The LFX has the crossover pipe integrated into the feed line from the pump.

Will make this from a difficulty of 9 to about a 4 if I can get that fuel rail out.

Looks like they should come right off the injectors. Reading for the LLT it says to rebuild the injectors if the fuel rail is pulled but I suspect that is unnecissary. Especially if I plan to up size the injectors down the road.
Don't you dare pull that rail, or the fuel injectors unless you've read that it is necessary which I doubt. Rebuilding the DI fuel injectors is a different animal than port injectors. It's not about the injector screens, it's about those high pressure retaining seals around the nozzle that require a special tool for installation, although I've read that a tech said it can be done by hand by soaking the new seals in hot water to soften them and installing and squeezing them down.

An injector, or two may come out with the rail.

I replaced my injectors and the hardest part of the job was getting them out and that was after the rails came off.
You would also be adding a considerable additional expense in parts; injector seals, injector retaining clips, and I do believe the sensor is recommended for replacement when removed, although if you pull the rail, you should probably go ahead and replace it anyway.

I'm afraid you'll need two a.ses working in shifts to spread that pain over.
 

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I did read what the shop manual says... Didn't look like was a big deal but grrr... Ok... I will take your word for it.. What I SHOULD do is see if there is a local shop that looks at the injectors and have them rebuild and flow test them because they didn't look like they were right anyhow.
One was considerably lower than the others and one was considerably higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Get a little bore brush and chase the ports in the head before reinstall, they'll definitely have some combustion debris in them.
 

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I have a gun barrel brass bore brush set. I will make sure I do that before I install them. I tried to use it to brush off the valves when I had them exposed before but they didn't work well for that. Place I am talking to is charging $25 apiece to rebuild them and $7.50 to send them back. I will take pictures of what they look like... Hopefully in the next couple weeks I will be running E85 and won't need to worry about them fouling again.
 

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Ok fuel rails out... The injectors come out with them so you have to finagle them to get them out. They are held to the fuel rail with a spring clip that should be fun to get back on.

Sending the injectors out to be cleaned and serviced for $150 plus shipping.
I now have LOTS of room to put the pump on. So for those of us with big hands, there is another solution. Pulling the drivers side fuel rail does give enough room to be able to get in to where the pump is and do what you need to do. I also picked up a couple new bolts and will be torquing everything down properly. The next time I have to remove them will be if I upsize the pump for the super charger when I get it and that will be down the road. And will require larger injectors too.
Fuel rail with injectors still on.. Note the spring clips... The cables came off easy.

571856


The end of the injector wasn't real bad...
The Oring stayed in the fuel rail when I took them out.

571857

Look at all this room now with no fuel rails in place.. The fuel pump will be very simple to replace now.

571858


I am curious what this is though. Is this on the right a secondary water pump or something?This two could be a PITA to change out due to lack of clearance.
 
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