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2019 XTS Luxury AWD, 2004 SRX N* AWD (gone)
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Discussion Starter #1
This is not to start an oil war - I know it can be contentious as much as the type of gas :canttalk:, but my N* 2004 SRX is a little over 130K miles, and I'm considering switching from full synthetic to Castrol GTX High Mileage (gets good reviews from the Vette guys on another forum). It is a blend of synthetic and regular oil with special additives for high mileage engines.

Knowledge, experiences, thoughts on switching - thanks!.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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IF the engine has a few oil weeps and sounds a tad "loose" then a high mileage engine oil might do something beneficial. If the engine is quiet, runs well, has good power and burns no oil (blue exhaust smoke tint) then the "high mileage" synthetic blend will accomplish exactly nothing. Your engine uses roller valve lifters so the slight extra anti-scuff additives in the "high mileage" oils is of no benefit, either.

Curiously, yesteryear's "high mileage" was about 60,000 miles and the engine was the first to show it. Nowadays 150,000 is not engine "high mileage" for a properly maintained car - in our cases the tires, hubs, struts, shocks, electricals go bad first. Thank modern oils and gasolines for that.

For any motor vehicle, run a good name brand of synthetic engine oil in the viscosity range recommended for your engine and ambient temperatures*. I happen to like WIX oil filters. Follow the oil life monitor or follow a change interval based on your driving conditions. Slow, cold city/near suburban driving calls for more frequent intervals than those for a highway cruiser.

*I'll temper that - "For a gasoline engine in good condition ..........." - and always read the owner's manual for special circumstances. The people who designed and built the vehicle/engine usually have some foggy idea of what's good and bad for their creations.

Take ANY advertising with a grain of salt. It's usually done to sell you something, not to present facts.

"Synthetic blend" engine oil .......... What is the percentage of synthetic to conventional - 1:99, 50:50, 99:1 ? Modern conventionals are so good that you can very safely run that, too -- again, follow the recommended change intervals.
 

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2019 XTS Luxury AWD, 2004 SRX N* AWD (gone)
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Sub. I have some piston slap (no oil seepage, but did have to get the timing chain cover gasket, valve cover, and cam actuators done due to a small leak in them), but the slap and given the high miles I have is why I was considering going to HMO. Compression and power is good, smooth running. I change the oil at about 5000 miles even though it may be between 50-60% on the OLM, the reason being I'm retired and the blasted winters I drive the car (over 90% highway) once to twice a week which amounts to about 70 miles getting to full operating temp, but since our OLM does not account for time sitting (more modern OLM account for sitting time from what I've read), I figured to just change it. Curiously I read that GM re-calibrated the OLM for 2013 - "With the introduction of the 2013 models (including Equinox, Cruze, Silverado, Acadia, Terrain, and Verano) GM has re-calibrated their system to include a mileage parameter. It works just like it did before but when the vehicle has gone 5000 miles since the previous oil change the system jumps from whatever the percentage was to 20% oil life remaining. GM did not get specific on why they made this change but it can be inferred that they have determined that the longer oil change intervals must have had a negative impact on long term engine performance and customer satisfaction".

On an additional note, after the car sits for a few days and I start it I briefly get some timing chain noise - only for about 1.5 seconds and then it goes away. I read that it is normal for the V8 overhead cams due to oil drain back. I found that if the car has been out on a run, then parked a few hours and then restarted for a minute and shut off, I don't get the TC rattle at all, my theory being the oil is more cold and so stays up there longer. Not sure if the brief start is a good thing or not - what are your thoughts on the brief rattle and the brief start to remedy it (if it needs a remedy since it's suppose to be normal - but different opinions on this from what I've read)?
 

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2010 DTS
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Personally, I wouldn't obsess over it. I use Walmart SuperTech (conventional) in mine with 124K on it and have used it on several cars with much higher mileage. Never a problem. Any oil you choose will serve you well.

One thing to consider is that High Mileage oils have seal conditioners in them to swell the seals and seal up leaks, much like most of the stop leak snake oil additives. If you're worried that your oil is not up to the job (which I doubt is the case), you might try Rotella diesel oil with higher Zinc levels or an expensive racing oil, also with high zinc levels.

Can't speak of the chain noise. Never noticed it (if it's there) on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Personally, I wouldn't obsess over it. I use Walmart SuperTech (conventional) in mine with 124K on it and have used it on several cars with much higher mileage. Never a problem. Any oil you choose will serve you well.

Can't speak of the chain noise. Never noticed it (if it's there) on my car.
Thanks Ranger, but I'm not obsessed - just seeking some input on this. I only noticed the chain noise after the car sat for a few days in the cold garage, and I had the car door open when I fired it up. I don't think I would have noticed it if the door was closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Isn’t a synth/dino oil blend only half as good as it should be?
That is making the assumption that synthetic is better than dino for all uses which is I think not necessarily the case (but I'm no expert on oil, and even they have varying opinions), but like I said I don't want this thread to turn into an oil war. I asked a specific question regarding HMO for my car (although I also threw in a question about the timing chain), and that the GTX blend gets good ratings (I'm sure others do as well). I'm concerned about preventative maintenance, but as Sub pointed out, if there is nothing wrong presently, then there is really no benefit to it's use. So my question has been answered I guess. Now for the cold start short rattle being normal on overhead cam engines...just looking for input from those in the know.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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My STS might have a slight timing chain rattle after a long garage sleep. The chain tensioners (3) are hydraulic, fully tensioned by oil pressure, partially set for pre-tension by ratchet adjusters. IF those tensioners bleed off during storage there might be a revolution or two of whirrrrrr at first start.

VVT systems seem to have their own set of noise/malfunction gremlins.
 

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. Now for the cold start short rattle being normal on overhead cam engines...just looking for input from those in the know.
One thing to keep in mind is that the cams, followers lifters are all under the cam covers and DO make a bit more noise on a cold start than an older style V8 with the cam under the intake manifold. I HAVE noticed that before. Is it possible THAT is what you're hearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One thing to keep in mind is that the cams, followers lifters are all under the cam covers and DO make a bit more noise on a cold start than an older style V8 with the cam under the intake manifold. I HAVE noticed that before. Is it possible THAT is what you're hearing?
To me it sounds like a brief chain rattle, not sure about the other noises you mention. Sub thinks it's possible he hears the chain rattle too once it has sat and the oil has drained back. Then when she is lighted up the oil pressure takes about a second or two to send oil up to the tensioners so until that time there's not too much oil there and the chain briefly rattles against the tensioners...that's what I've read anyway. Apparently it is normal for overhead cam engines, and does no harm. I only hear it for about 1.5 seconds and only if I have the door open. I heard it my accident one day when I left the door open while I fired her up.

What I've been doing to prevent this is a few hours after parking and knowing I won't be going out for a few days, I start the engine and let it run for about one minute. That seems to leave more oil on the tensioners and chain so I don't get the rattle. There's a video of an Audi with it. I'll try to find it again and post the link here.
 

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One synthetic theory that gets kicked around once in a while is that - during layups - synthetics seem to stay on/in bearings and tiny crevices longer than conventionals.

No hard and fast experiences or opinions here.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One synthetic theory that gets kicked around once in a while is that - during layups - synthetics seem to stay on/in bearings and tiny crevices longer than conventionals.

No hard and fast experiences or opinions here.
Thanks sub, that's good to know.

Here is the link below to the poster who had a noise similar to a YTuber who posted the video of his Audi. Mine is very similar but a little shorter in duration and not quite as loud - but that could be due to me in the vehicle with the door open instead of standing in front. The other posters said it is normal as long as it goes away in a second or two.

Looks like the solution options for this are to use full synthetic as per Sub's mention of 'synthetic theory', do what I've been doing re: short run in the garage to get oil to stay there (which does work) OR to bump the starter briefly with the ignition once or twice to spin the engine but not actually start it so oil is there to pressurize the tensioners when it is fired up. I'll try all to see what works best...I'd rather not be going out to the garage at minus 30 to start the car briefly...no I don't have remote start :(

All being said...I probably should not be concerned with it as it's supposed to be normal for overhead cam engines, and the car has probably done this for a long time...perhaps since new.

Okay, back to oil...I'll probably switch to a higher quality full synthetic to see if that solves the cold start rattle and to provide optimal lubrication. If I can find one that is also HMO so much the better - at least for my focus on prevention rather than chasing the horse due to the barn door being left open.

Thanks Sub and Ranger for your input and time.

Link: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunen...47-rattle-noise-for-1-2-seconds-on-cold-start
 
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