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2011 Cadillac CTS Coupe Premium 3.6L DI
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Just wanted to share my high mileage CTS that has been issue free aside from the MAF sensor dying and routine maintenance. My car seems to hate any other brand MAF other than Bosch. This car sees a lot of daily/spirited driving and still accelerates hard (to my surprise). Although, I'm starting to hear creaking in the front suspension whenever I go over speed bumps. It goes away after a bit of driving. It's most noticable when cold.

I'm looking forward to breaking the 200k mile mark in this car.

Speedometer Car Odometer Tachometer Vehicle
 

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2009 CTS4 3.6L, 2014 CTS4 3.6L Lux
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Nice. I like the gen2 instrument panel better than the gen3 on the CTS.

I assume you're not the original owner. But do you know if the timing chains were replaced? And if so, at what odometer reading?

My 2009 is at 90K miles, and I think I've got to do it in a year or so.
 

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2023 CT5-V RWD / 2020 XT6 Sport / 2024 Lyriq AWD (reserved)
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OP: These are great cars - great styling and better than decent performance. They do have their weaknesses but if you stay on top of things, they can last a long time. Your coupe and my 2010 sedan have similar mileage and mine is heading out of the family fleet soon mostly due to advancing rust.

Nice. I like the gen2 instrument panel better than the gen3 on the CTS.

I assume you're not the original owner. But do you know if the timing chains were replaced? And if so, at what odometer reading?

My 2009 is at 90K miles, and I think I've got to do it in a year or so.
Good advice. There's no way a 2011 would make it to 190k miles on the original chains and still be capable of hard acceleration. In fact, the car may be about due for its second chain transplant.
 

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2023 CT5-V RWD / 2020 XT6 Sport / 2024 Lyriq AWD (reserved)
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Even for a 2011? Thought it was just with earlier year models
Yes. The LLT engine in 2008-2011 CTSes was particularly suspect. GM redesigned the engine and the LFX 3.6L debuted in the 2012 CTS. AFAIK, there are far fewer reported cases of timing chain failure on the LFX or on the 3.0L LF1 and LFW engines. But if you have an LLT engine, you have to watch for this.

In my case, I replaced the valve cover gaskets shortly after my timing chain transplant with the redesigned version of the gasket that drastically reduces the engine's oil consumption and (theoretically) prolongs the life of the chains. If the OP's car has had those gaskets replaced with the newer version, he might be okay; otherwise, I'd advise paying attention to the timing.
 

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08 CTS DI
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Just wanted to share my high mileage CTS that has been issue free aside from the MAF sensor dying and routine maintenance. My car seems to hate any other brand MAF other than Bosch. This car sees a lot of daily/spirited driving and still accelerates hard (to my surprise). Although, I'm starting to hear creaking in the front suspension whenever I go over speed bumps. It goes away after a bit of driving. It's most noticable when cold.

I'm looking forward to breaking the 200k mile mark in this car.
The pre LFX motor is run by a BOSCH operating system and should play well with BOSCH parts. The creaking noises in my experience are particularly a cold weather thing, that's the only time I hear them. I'd recommend you put a fuel pump, crank position sensor, plugs if not already replaced, O2 sensors and alternator on the preventive list at your current mileage. When the chains are finally done, include the sensors and solenoids. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have the fuel injectors cleaned at that time also. That should keep you going for a very long time with good maintenance.

... There's no way a 2011 would make it to 190k miles on the original chains and still be capable of hard acceleration. In fact, the car may be about due for its second chain transplant.
Sorry, but that is not true. There are too many variables involved with chain longevity. I'd advise replacing them before 200k as preventive, but having read of a number of 200k plus mile 3.6L cars, (My Mom's is one) on their original timing chains and with no associated codes, and one that was approaching 300k miles with no codes, I would only set that mileage point as a maximum limit, (changing Moms' next week). Some of these cars are driven in excess of 100 miles a day, racking up the mileage faster than the wear rate, thanks to excellent maintenance.
 

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2023 CT5-V RWD / 2020 XT6 Sport / 2024 Lyriq AWD (reserved)
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Sorry, but that is not true. There are too many variables involved with chain longevity. I'd advise replacing them before 200k as preventive, but having read of a number of 200k plus mile 3.6L cars, (My Mom's is one) on their original timing chains and with no associated codes, and one that was approaching 300k miles with no codes, I would only set that mileage point as a maximum limit, (changing Moms' next week). Some of these cars are driven in excess of 100 miles a day, racking up the mileage faster than the wear rate, thanks to excellent maintenance.
There are way too many reports of the LLT engines having badly worn chains (with or without DTCs) - to the extent that these reports spawned a TSB in 2013 along with GM making available a replacement chain kit at that time and redesigning the valve cover gasket and the PCV barb. I understand that from 2012, the likelihood of timing chain issues decreases dramatically. But for prior years, there's a problem. Is a problem inevitable? Maybe not but the likelihood is very very high.Still, I agree that meticulous maintenance will prolong the period between replacement chains but I have little confidence that the chains would weather 200k miles without performance issues.

FWIW, my CTS was meticulously maintained (oil levels were never low) and - even with that - I couldn't escape the dreaded P0008 by shortly after 100k miles. I will concede that I was slavish to the OLM to guide oil changes during the original warranty (with Cadillac, oil changes are free for 4 years/80k kms (50k miles) here in Canada and the dealerships balk at changes before 20% life left during the warranty period). Foolishly, I trusted the dealership's advice to heed the OLM and I didn't habitually check oil levels during the warranty period. After 50k miles, I was responsible for oil changes and began doing them at 50% oil life. Since my oil was never concerningly low during the period after 50k miles, I was shocked when I got the code. FWIW, I always used Mobil 1 of the correct weight and always a new OEM filter. And yet...

What year and model is your mother's vehicle?
 

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08 CTS DI
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I was slavish to the OLM to guide oil changes during the original warranty
A major contributor to premature timing chain codes, was the advent of extended life oil change intervals around the second gen. Part of the recall involved shortening the change intervals, as some motors across nearly all of the GM line used oil at a considerable rate, leading to some running low on oil well short of the oil life monitor percentage for change. Some owners mistook the oil life monitor, for the oil level monitor and never checked the oil level. I remember reading up on the SAAB cars around 09 and being amazed by stated oil change interval potential as long as 12k miles. By the time the LFX rolled around, pretty much everyone knew that was nonsense and no doubt LFX motors see much better care as a result of the timing chain scare that preceded them.

I don't recall any fuss with premature timing chain failures until the LLT. The significance there is that this was the induction model for direct injection and change from roller to silent chain design. An important side effect to DI motors and long oil change intervals, is fuel dilution of the oil and prolonged exposure to internal parts to the diluted motor oil. The LFX was never subjected to some of the most critical circumstances of the LLT dilemma, which prompted the changes. My Mom's car is an 07 Aura LY7, silent chain, well maintained. My 08 LLT chains were replaced at a little over 175k with no timing codes. It was a hwy car. The chains were visibly elongated by comparison (they don't stretch, they wear at the link pins), but the car still ran strong prior to that. VVT made that possible.

We will always hear about the problems, but few will come on just to say how good their car has been running after so many miles and there are lots of'em.
 

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I change the oil the same way I always have: when I see the hot idle drop 2-4 psi, the oil gets changed. This is usually around 3,000 miles.
There was a time when I thought 3k mile oil changes were a waste, I know better now. I still ride out to 5k, but I use one step higher viscosity and a bit more than 6 qts without bathing the crank having measured oil level in a lesser volume pan than what's in the car. ~3k on the oil is when I would hear the occasional cold start chatter until I bumped the viscosity up.
 

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2014 CTS4 Sport Wagon*2016 CTS V-Sport Premium
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maybe I should reconsider my oil change intervals of late on GM vehicles...but at least on the 2.0T LTG and the 3.0 LFW...I've followed the OLM and time (under 5K miles or 1 year whichever is first) but I check the oil level often and try to keep ahead of any changes the vehicles might display...

the 2.0T LTG in the GF's 2013 Malibu gets Mobil 1 5W-30 Dexos 1 Gen 2 and an AC Delco filter while the 3.0 LFW in my Sport Wagon gets Dexos 1 Gen 2 or better 5W-30 full synthetic and an OEM filter cartridge...neither exceeds 5K miles or 1 year while my V-Sport 3.6TT LF3 gets Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and an AC Delco UPF-R filter as recommended by several...and also hasn't exceeded 5K miles under my ownership before it gets an oil and filter change...

being retired and having two cars for driving I drive under 10K a year between them, chck oil levels often as well as try to buy a quality oil and filter for their particular needs...the V-Sport has an extended GM warranty...

Bill
 
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