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2000 DTS / 2005 STS
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since my extended warranty expired a couple months back my 2000 DTS has began to give me problems. Where as normally I'd just drop it off at the dealer, drive a rental till its fixed, then pick it up.... is definitely no longer an option. Due to the economy I'll be forced to make repairs and perform future maintenance on my own.

Having said that my DTS has around 65,100 miles and just recieved a Pennzoil Synthetic Oil change, new air & cabin filters, and has always been dealer repaired/maintained. About 3 or so weeks ago I was sitting at a red lights when I noticed my MPH needel on my dash bouncing around irratically, and reading crazy readings on the digital display.... from 10mph=100+mph, all while sitting still! Then as I began to drive it seemed to not know what gear it was in and would shift with a jolt. That same day my check engine light came on so I went to Autozone to have it read (not knowing the car had its own diagnostic system at the time). The employee told me that my speed sensor had givin off some irratic signals, and that he would reset it. Worst case senario would be to replace the sensor, but he advised me I would be ok as long as it didn't come back on or begin to be a problem. The light stayed off for 2-3 days and then returned!!!

While out and about I went to Autozone again and this time when they ran the scanner I was advised it was a emissions code. The employee told me sometimes the gas caps go bad, sensors, ect. But as long as the car drives fine no need to worry about it. He cleared the check engine light and once again I was off. This time it reappeared a few hours later. This fueled my fire and I began researching online.... thus discovering this site and all of its information!!! So, I figured out how to do the self-diagnostic test and wrote down all the codes. Once it was done I cleared the codes..... only for them to return miles later. Only today on my way home, the check engine light was already on, then the ABS, Traction Control, and something else all light up as well. The display said "Service Stability System" and "Service Electrical System! Now I'm nervous!!!

Here are the codes that I pulled just minutes ago before I once again cleared them. I did drive around the block with the codes cleared and nothing happened..... no lights, no codes, nothing. I know its only a matter of time or miles before it all returns or gets worse so I'd like to get to the root of the problem or problems, and begin fixing them! I'd appreciate any help and ifo I could get from you all here..... you have no idea how much I've read and read and read before posting this thread! Thanks again for your time and any assistance you can provide.



2000 DTS CODES:

ABS
C1214 History
(Antilock Brake System: System Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open)

C1248 History
(Antilock Brake System: EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On)

IPC
U1192 History
(Instrument Panel Cluster: Loss of VTD Class 2 Serial Data Com)

IPM
B0429 Current
(Instrument Panel Integration Module: Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance)

PCM
P0443 Current
(Powertrain Control Module: EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve 1 Control Circuit)

U1096 History
(Powertrain Control Module: Loss of Communications with IPC)

SDM
U1096 History
(Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module: Loss of Communications with IPC)

VTD
B3055 History
(Vehicle Theft Deterent: Key Not Present)





Also, I'm not too sure if it matters or not, but I do have an aftermarket Viper 791XV 2-way Pager Alarm installed with a proximity sensor and remote start. This may explain some of this and it may not. I know my dash displays "Service Theft System" everytime I use the remote start feature on the Viper.
 

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2010 DTS
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P0443 is what is illuminating the SES light because it is emission related.

The two "C" (Chassis) codes are what is tripping the stability message.

Not sure about the electrical system message, but low voltage brings all sorts of electrical gremlins out to play and sets false DTC's. Start by checking your battery voltage.
 

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2000 DTS / 2005 STS
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Discussion Starter #3
P0443 is what is illuminating the SES light because it is emission related.

The two "C" (Chassis) codes are what is tripping the stability message.

Not sure about the electrical system message, but low voltage brings all sorts of electrical gremlins out to play and sets false DTC's. Start by checking your battery voltage.


BEAUTIFUL..... atleast a place to start! Now I know the battery in my DTS is under the rear seat. Now that I'm hesitant on trusting the Autozone guys, whats the proper way they should go about testing my battery? I noticed when I was there the other day it said free starter/battery/alternator testing on the window. And any idea where to start looking to whats giving me that P0443 code? Thanks for the help too!!!!
 

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2010 DTS
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Press the info button on the dash and get a voltage reading. It should be somewhere around 12.6 before starting and in the 14's, maybe low 15's while running.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Press the info button on the dash and get a voltage reading. It should be somewhere around 12.6 before starting and in the 14's, maybe low 15's while running.
I'll run out to the garage and check it right now......:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I turned the key to the on position and it read 12.3v, then I started the car and it read 14.2v. Immediately the ABS, Traction Control, and Brake lights came on, thus triggering the "Service Stability System". Then the SES light soon followed. So I drove it around the block and then ran the diagnostics again, remember I cleared them earlier. This time I recieved the following 4 codes, ALL current!


ABS

C1214
C1248

IPM

B0429

PCM

P0443




I then cleared all the codes once again and shut the car off. I then turned the key once again to the ON position and the battery read 12.0v, then I started it and let it idle as it read 12.4v Any ideas???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also now that I'm thinking about it, when the odometer gets in its mode to where it wants to bounce around and cause the hard shifting, the cruise control won't work! Not sure if that would help identify the problem? And once in awhile the "Outside Temp" reading on the heater display is WAY off. Like today it was 83 out and it read 70 my first few miles. Then I glanced at it after awhile and it read 83, haha! What the hell is goin on here.....


Wierd thing is, I have yet to get the code myself from the car to identify a speed sensor malfunction???
 

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2010 DTS
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Boy, I don't know. 12.4 at idle is low. I don't think it is low enough to set false codes though. You may have a real ABS and purge solenoid problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Boy, I don't know. 12.4 at idle is low. I don't think it is low enough to set false codes though. You may have a real ABS and purge solenoid problem.
OUCH! Well how would a guy go about tracking down these parts and their locations? I won't be going anywhere near the dealer, they quoted me over $650 for a window regulator that I did for $110 out of pocket!!! Then I called about the speed sensor and they quoted over $1200 for that! I just need to know what parts I need and where they are, ha. And thanks a lot for all the help, I do appreciate every bit of it!
 

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2010 DTS
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If you are going to be doing your own wrench bending, I'd head over the Ebay and locate a FSM by Helm Inc, not Chiltons or Haynes. That will tell you everything you want, need and then some.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you are going to be doing your own wrench bending, I'd head over the Ebay and locate a FSM by Helm Inc, not Chiltons or Haynes. That will tell you everything you want, need and then some.
Is there any place that sells it locally? I'm eager to get going on this before it breaks down completely. This is our only vehicle and I drive roughly 500 miles a week for work. That and I HATE Ebay..... its been years since I've been on their, haha!
 

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1994 Cadillac Deville
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Man, Unkut, You have a very wierd problem on your hands. Honestly, I work at Advance Auto parts(Competitor of Autozone). I would take it to either Advance or Autozone with the back seat removed and the battery accessable and Have them LOAD test the battery(AT THE BATTERY-NOT THE JUMP POSTS), See what that says, also have them check your charging system for sure. If its reading 12.3 ON IDLE, thats way to low. Sounds like a regulator problem possibly. That could also lead to some very wierd electrical problems. Check all that before moving on too much further.
 

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00 DTS lambo white, eibachs, 2011 CTS-V wheels
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wow thats crazy cuz i was just going to post the p0443 code on my car also, (sorry to hijack ur thread unkut) the only difference im having from unkut is that my fuel sensor has been acting up lately, and the voltage is about the same as unkut's readings.. and yes my SES light is on also..
 

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This all sounds battery or alternator-ish to me. Definitely let them load test that for you, the Autozone and Advance guys are good people, they usually try their best to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This all sounds battery or alternator-ish to me. Definitely let them load test that for you, the Autozone and Advance guys are good people, they usually try their best to help.
Yeah I couldn't make it there today. I wanna try to get over there tomorrow for sure. However I did monitor the battery voltage throughout the day today. Oh, and my ABS/Traction Control/Brake lights finally went off on their own??? Maybe it had something to do with me going through some deep puddles in all the rain we had yesterday. But anyways the SES light is still on so....

The battery voltage ran between 12.8 at its lowest at one point, but generally it read 14.4 or so. This is all while in motion, or at a stoplight, but all while the car was in Drive. What would you suggest?

Also, when it comes to the following 2 codes, could someone further explain these to me? I wouldn't mind changing out the EVAP Purge Solenoid to prevent the SES light problem, but where is it located and where do I get it? I tried Autozone and they have no such thing in their computer. Is it refered to as something else perhaps? And exactly how hard is it to change out?

B0429 - Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance

P0443 - EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve 1 Control Circuit


THANKS a ton for all the input and help from everyone thus far!!! I am trully addicted to this site and its wealth of information and people willing to help others.... all for the love of the Caddy!!! THANKS!
 

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Not a problem bro! I hope we can figure all this out for ya! I actually had a guy come into my work(Advance Auto Parts) and had the EXACT same problem with a 2001 Cadillac Seville. Literally the EXACT SAME PROBLEMS! Kinda creepy! LOL... Good luck man!
 
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