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2000 DTS / 2005 STS
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380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been getting some codes lately off the vehicles built in system, not sure exactly what it's called but anyways I desperately need your guys experience and help here. I've been getting a rough idle off and on all winter, comes and goes. Yesterday I had my tires all rotated/balanced, an inner tie rod installed, a rear wheel bearing, as well as new Monroe A855 shocks installed in the rear. So today my dash is once again lit up like a Christmas tree lol! I pulled the codes and here's where I need help.

Amp U1000- class 2 communication malfunction / current

Ipc u1016- loss of communication with PCM / history
Ipc u1192- loss of vtd class 2 serial data com / history

Ipm B0429- temp control #3 rear circuit range performance / current

PCM p0300- engine misfire detected / history
PCM p1599- engine stall or near stall detected / history
PCM u1096- loss of communication with IPC / history

PDM B1586- mirror horiz pos sensor out of range/open / current

RSS C0589- left rear solenoid circuit open / current
RSS C0594- right rear solenoid circuit open / current


I do have a viper remote start/alarm that's been on the car for years I use it many times a day, not sure if that causes anything but it shouldn't I wouldn't think. I do smell like an oily smell sometimes while driving. Oh, and I keep getting "Service Suspension System", "speed limited to 90", and the service engine soon light is on as well. ANY help would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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04 Deville, 11 DTS Premium, 00 Deville (sold), 02 Deville (sold)
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2,691 Posts
Forget about the codes that begin with a U... they are usually hiccups on the dataline and seem to come and go. The B429 code is for the HVAC actuator that directs air to the rear seat vents... if the vents work normal forget the code. If they don't work change the actuator behind the light in the glovebox.

Your P1599 and P0300 may be bad CKP sensors. If your CKP's are brown or tan in color (made in Mexico) they are junk... the new ones are Black and Gray in color (made in Japan) and have so far been very reliable.

The rough idle may be as simple as a good throttle body and IAC valve cleaning... the procedure by Mtflight is down in the TechTips section of the board.

I had an oily burning smell when coming to a stop... and found that the power steering hose had a small leak in it (common) it has dripping down on a hot surface and the smell was getting sucked up thru the cabin air filter when I came to a stop.
 

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2000 DTS / 2005 STS
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380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Heading to a local shop here in 20 min so they can tear into it and my wallet!!! I'll update when I know more!
 

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04 Deville, 11 DTS Premium, 00 Deville (sold), 02 Deville (sold)
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Heading to a local shop here in 20 min so they can tear into it and my wallet!!! I'll update when I know more!
Make sure you have the shop check the color of the CKP's (Crankshaft Position Sensors) both of them are located above the oil filter adapter.
 

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2000 DTS / 2005 STS
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380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I took it to the local GM dealer and they supposedly ran a diagnostics on it and it came back that the coil pack wasn't firing on 3/5/7 so they determined it was a bad coil pack. Luckily I had a backup coil pack that I got last winter when the car was showing a P0300 code that eventually went away so they put that one on and cylinder 3 was misfiring, so the tech says the plug was fouled out and supposedly "further" diagnostics determined that injector #3 was bad. So their recommendation was to replace all spark plugs, plug coils (the black boots not coil pack), and fuel injector #3. I was quoted $250 parts/labor to do the plugs/boots, $190 parts/labor on the #3 fuel injector, and they charged me $130 diagnostic fee on top of it all for a total of $570 +tax/shop fees!!! When I heard this I asked them why I would pay "double" labor since the plugs would be out to replace the injector anyways, and even then, the plugs/boots were only around $90 for AC DELCO parts because I replaced them last year myself. The shop Mgr., who already seemed short tempered and frusterated, says "you either want it fixed or ya don't"! I said with that attitude your the only thing I feel like fixin right now!!! So as he sent me towards the cashier to pay the $130 diagnostic fee he yelled for the mechanic to back my car outta the shop! I was angry and felt upset to say the least.

So on my way home with my car barely idiling I was searching for GM/AC DELCO parts on my Iphone and it led me to a wholesale distributor where it turns out all the GM dealers within a 3+hr drive get their parts from...... talk about God throwin you a bone!!! So I was able to buy the injector, 8 plugs, and 8 plug coil boots for $140 out the door, yes all brand new AC DELCO parts!!! I then called a local shop and made a 8am Sat appt. to have everything installed for $120 or less, guaranteed! Its a major reputable shop too (Belle Tire) so I trust their work. It just blowa me away that these dealers want your business yet they treat you like trash and try to legally extort you the second you walk in!!! To be honest I just hope once this injector and other parts go in the car runs right again. I'm leary as to what made the mechanic believe it was an injector rather then a bad #3 coil on the 2nd coil pack I gave them. I guess only time will tell......
 

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2010 DTS
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88,155 Posts
I don't put up with that type of treatment any more. I'd call the general manger (or preferably the owner) and voice my displeasure over the service managers attitude. Their pricing is another story and you can't dispute that. You CAN walk away though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't put up with that type of treatment any more. I'd call the general manger (or preferably the owner) and voice my displeasure over the service managers attitude. Their pricing is another story and you can't dispute that. You CAN walk away though.
Yeah it just made things that much worse you know. But now I've got all those parts installed and I'll be damned it DIDN'T change a thing! It STILL seems to have a miss or something. NO SES light but whats weird is that at a stopsign/light the car sorta just shimmys or vibrates, but once I'm driving its not noticable. I hope I don't have a burnt ring or bad head gasket! Would gettin a pressure test be a good idea at this point?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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You don't have "burnt ring (?)" or bad head gasket. A cylinder leakdown test will not confirm or deny a poor idle miss.

Where is the MAF on a 2000 DTS ? If it is divorced - not bolted to the face of the throttlebody - then ANY air leak between the MAF and throttlebody will cause a horrible idle. Check the intake air ducting for leaks or loose clamps.

Looking in the www.rockauto.com catalog, you have a divorced MAF. Check the electrical connector, wires, and air ducting clamps.

Also, remove the engine cover and trace out both PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hoses/pipes. The "dirty air" line runs from the rear cam cover around into the intake manifold. The clean air line runs from the top of the throttlebody to the front cam cover. Any breaks or vacuum leaks in those lines will cause a poor idle and/or miss.
 

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2010 DTS
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So I was able to buy the injector, 8 plugs, and 8 plug coil boots for $140 out the door
Sounds like you replaced everything except the ignition cassette which contains the 4 coils for that bank of cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sounds like you replaced everything except the ignition cassette which contains the 4 coils for that bank of cylinders.
Exaclty lol! "Supposedly" the dealer said he tested the Coil cassette I had on the car and it failed on 3/5/7 which led to the cassette being labeled as BAD. Luckily I had an extra coil cassette in my trunk which I picked up last year when RANGER (another knowledge packed member here) was trying to help me with a previous P0300 that seemed to go away with new plugs/boots. So the dealer replaced the BAD cassette with the one in my trunk and then determined only #3 was an issue, leading them to the diagnosis of a failed injector in #3. They also recommended new plugs/boots which all combined was supposed to solve my P0300 code and have the engine running strong again. The SES light isn't on at the moment, but there is still a problem somewhere because the car has a "shimmy" or "vibration", which is the best way I can describe it, really noticable at idle.

Today I had Valvoline do a complete fuel system cleaning where they manually took apart and cleaned the throttle body with TB Cleaner and rags. Then they used air pressure to force a "cleaning" agent through the fuel system throughly to the exhaust, followed by an additive to the gas tank. The TB was a bit dirty and left a couple rags blackened, lol. The tech told me not to flip out when I left the place if some white smoke came out the exhaust.... and WOW did it! Once I hit the roadway and got on the gas I couldn't see nothing but smoke in the rearview!!! But as the miles went by I noticed a MAJOR increase in acceleration and performance. It almost seemed to lessen the "shimmy"/"vibration" at idle, but its still noticeable. I'm almost wondering if the 2nd Coil Cassette has a bad #3 which is causing the problems even after the tune-up. I did stop and grab a AC DELCO fuel filter on my way home tonight becuause its never been changed since I bought the car at 23,000 miles and I'm closing in on 107,000 now.... so I figured it definitely couldn't hurt lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You don't have "burnt ring (?)" or bad head gasket. A cylinder leakdown test will not confirm or deny a poor idle miss.

Where is the MAF on a 2000 DTS ? If it is divorced - not bolted to the face of the throttlebody - then ANY air leak between the MAF and throttlebody will cause a horrible idle. Check the intake air ducting for leaks or loose clamps.

Looking in the www.rockauto.com catalog, you have a divorced MAF. Check the electrical connector, wires, and air ducting clamps.

Also, remove the engine cover and trace out both PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hoses/pipes. The "dirty air" line runs from the rear cam cover around into the intake manifold. The clean air line runs from the top of the throttlebody to the front cam cover. Any breaks or vacuum leaks in those lines will cause a poor idle and/or miss.
With all the work I've had done lately you'd think atleast 1 of the many techs would've noticed a leak haha, but then again.....! To be honest I'm so fed up and financially strained from all this that I don't know what else to do! Its pretty bad when you can't even take a car to a shop or even a DEALER anymore and get a problem solved! But you better believe they make NO mistakes towards the end when saying, "Will that be debit or credit"!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh and something else I forgot to mention is that over the past couple of months my dash display keeps saying, "Check Coolant Level" even though the coolant is fine. I even had it tested and its clean and tests great! I wondered if maybe somehow it was related, but I guess it could just be a sensor, who knows anymore!
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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I don't know what else to do! /QUOTE]

Simple: Follow the intake duct and vacuum leak recommendations given by several members. It's easy to do and is one more step in the diagnostic process which narrows down engine performance faults.

What the oil change bay did for the throttlebody cleaning and fuel system treatment you could have done at home with throttlebody cleaner, rags, a toothbrush and a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON.

The "check coolant level" warning without coolant loss is fairly common - the sensor in the bottom of the coolant reservoir is the culprit. Some members have been able to wake it up by bubbling all around it with compressed air while others have had to replace the entire reservoir. Do a search in Amazon, automotive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah I cleaned it myself a couple years ago but with work and the weather it was worth $45 to me for the convenience alone lol. It's definitely running better, just that damn shimmy/vibration at idle that I gotta pinpoint now and it's done! Next day I get off work I'm checkin everything mentioned above! Thanks so much to everyone for pointing me in the right direction!!!
 

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2000 Deville
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I had the same problem with the sensor in the reservoir giving low coolant reading.

Replaced the unit w/oem worked great for one year, but now it's doing the same thing as the previous one.

If you fill it just a about 1/4" to 1/2" above fill line the low coolant light will go away.

I wouldn't be surprised if the new coil bank was the issue, especially considering the attitude of their svc dept. They could have accidentally left the spring out above the #3 plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well it was throwing the P0300 with the original coil that was black in color so I replaced it with another one and thats the one that tested bad on 3/5/7, so basically all they did is put the initial coil that I had in my trunk back on and claimed "further diagnosis", which was only 5-10 min from the initial bad 3/5/7 coil, that my #3 injector was the culprit. Replaced it along with the plugs and plug coils and nor much changed lol! Isn't a dealers diagnosis guaranteed? I mean c'mon..... I paid $130 for NOTHING...... maybe I should call them back and complain????
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got the part # today so Ill most likely order a new one next weej, thx!
 
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