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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

So, I just purchased a Cadillac-now what? :)

Really, i just purchased a 1984 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (it's not a Biarritz; it's an H&E produced convertible) as my sunshine car. I've never owned a domestic, let alone one with a 4.1L V-8, so I'm counting on you fine people to help me out with my journey.

I was wondering if anyone her can help me out with a few problems.

First, the driver's seat doesn't work. It tilits back and the bottom cushion rises--that's all that works. Being only 5'7, I have to really stretch to reach the pedals. If the seat motor was broken, none of the functions would work, right? Could this be the wiring or the control panel on the door? Also, the driver's side door lock button doesn't work. The passenger side works and it locks both doors, so the lock itself works, just not the button. I tried changing the lock switch with one from a junkyard, but it still wouldn't work. Any ideas?

Next (sorry this is long) the Service Soon light just came on. It hasn't come on before. although I have only had the car about two weeks. I just spent $300 on a new catalytic converter to pass smog, so I doubt it's emissions related. Do these cars have a tendancy to have the Service Soon light come on for minor things, or should I have my mechanic (at a cost of $70) check it out. Oh yeah, my gas cap is on tight.

Finally, the driver's side rear window is stuck. I can hear the motor run when I press the button, so would this be the window regulator or something else?

I have a lot more questions, but for now that should suffice. I promise I will take pictures this weekend and post them up here so you could see my first dive into the world of Cadillacs. It's dark blue with a tan/kind of orangey interior (does this sound familiar?)

Thanks again; hope you can help.
 

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You're in luck! I had an '85 and did most of my own work on it so I can help you with a lot of the problems that you have...I don't have much time right now so I'll tell you quickly about the seat problem. The motor will run and some of the functions will work because the transmission is bad Mine did the same thing as yours exactly! The bad news is that you have to remove it and repair/replace it. You can manually adjust the seat position with a screw driver ( If you're very patient ) by removing the motor unit from under the seat and finding the adjusment cable that corresponds with the movement that you want to make! Then the hard work starts! you have to turn the thing until the seat is where you need it to be! And believe me when I tell you....It moves real slow! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the prompt response. I'll look in to that this weekend and look forward to hearing the rest of your advice.
 

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Thanks for the prompt response. I'll look in to that this weekend and look forward to hearing the rest of your advice.
 

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OK! I'm back to you now....Let's tackle the door lock problem! First..Test the switch that you bought! Make sure it's working. If it isn't that next you need to check and see if you're getting power to the switch....You'll need a test light. Do a little detective work and find the hot wire into the switch and make sure it's hot! It wouldnt hurt to have a GOOD service manual. If it's not that then you're gonna have to find out where the interruption is after the switch......Easy huh?

To test the switch, You're going to have to get a power source and hook it up to the switch and hit the switch to see if it's working......Let me know.
 

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Seat issues on your car are usually cable related. It uses something called a "gear-nut" at all four corners to raise and lower the seat. Each gear-nut is controlled by cables that are controlled by a motor drive gearbox which is controlled by the switch. Second most common issue is probably a tie between a wiring issue (broken or simply disconnected), and a bad bearbox. If you have just one corner of the seat that doesn't appear to move, it's probably a bad gear-nut. Just remember, before final assembly of the seat, always (manually) adjust the gear-nuts to equal heights. This will keep the seat level and reduce drag on the motor-driven parts due to improper alignment.
The door lock is most likely a bad connection (usually in the door). The system uses a door lock relay that is controlled via the switches. Since one door switch works and the other doesn't, we'll assume that the relay is "probably" good. Like KC said, verify the "new" switch is good first and then check related wiring. The most common failure for an issue like you have is a bad ground to the switch. Test this by disconnecting the switch and connect a test light "across" the two connections. It should light. If it doesn't, clip the light onto a KNOWN-GOOD ground and then check for 12v on one of the wires. If you have 12v on one wire, you have a bad ground on the other. If you have no 12v, find out why not and fix it.
As for your CEL (Check Engine Light), all conditions that will turn it on are "potentially" serious and have something to do with driveability that will affect both MPG and of course emmissions.
 

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The rear window is one of those things you're gonna have to tear into to find out whats wrong with it! it's more than likely going to be simple to fix once you take the interior panel off. There's not a lot to go wrong in there if you have power to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help,

This weekend was a little busier than I expected, so I didn't have time to look at the seat or lock swicth. Next weekend I'm going to go to a friend's shop. He has all the equipment to test the electrical stuff.

What I did do this weekend is fix the axle (no more clicking!) and buy a radio from a junkyard for $13. The radio works, but the speakers in the dash suck. They definitely need to be replaced, but they look like a pain to take out. Does anyone know the size? I think they're 3 or 3-1/2, right? Also, I didn't check to see, but are there speakers in the back? I didn't hear any sound from the back, and since the top is stored behind the seats, I assumed there weren't any. Am I wrong? Are they hidden between the top and the trunk?

Oh yeah, I also found out my windsheild washer resovoir has a hole. Went to put some washer fluid in and it all leaked right to ground. Bought one from the junkyard for $3.

One last thing. I did the self diagnosis on the car. Codes 19, 23, 26, and 30 showed up. 26 and 30 have to do with idle and the other ones are electronic spark timing and the fuel pump circuit. Which brings me to my next question. When the problem is a circuit, does that mean it's a fuse or what? I'm totally clueless, but I wan't to learn. Thanks for being patient
 
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