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·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pearl is a 03 Seville SLS and I love her. But she's falling apart faster than I can fix her. I just put on new rotors, calipers and brakes. I put new rubber all around. New overflow tank. A while back it was the harmonic balancer.
Well now It's the altenator I'm pretty sure. drove home one night, parked her in the "caddyPillar" Went out this morning and she started then the message center told me not charging check charging system.
. Thought it was the battery until we jumped it and when we removed the cables she stalled within 10 seconds. We determined It's going to need a new altenator. Well my problem is I'm still waiting for my husband to put the shocks on that he has been riding around with in the back of his HHR. So now i need the shocks and battery. A motor or transmission mount. (haven't determined which yet) no doubt it will be which ever is the most difficult.
I need if possible step by step instructions, for the altenator and shocks. (for now more to come) so I can get out there and get her back on the road so I can get out of his HHR (I hate the HHR, tires too fat)
I've read the altenator comes out the bottom, Ok sounds like fun. And I'm pretty sure I can do the shocks myself but any tips, tricks, or pointers would help i'm sure" I have all the tools a girl could want. But not all the experience a "guy" would need.I'm probably going to start first thing one morning and settle in for a day of cussing.
I quit drinking about 5 years ago.
Cross your fingers this dosen't make me take it up again.
Thank you to any and all in advance for your help.
Sue

P.S. say a lil prayer for me
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
20,976 Posts
Pearl is a 03 Seville SLS and I love her. But she's falling apart faster than I can fix her. I just put on new rotors, calipers and brakes. I put new rubber all around. New overflow tank. A while back it was the harmonic balancer.
Well now It's the altenator I'm pretty sure. drove home one night, parked her in the "caddyPillar" Went out this morning and she started then the message center told me not charging check charging system.
. Thought it was the battery until we jumped it and when we removed the cables she stalled within 10 seconds. We determined It's going to need a new altenator. Well my problem is I'm still waiting for my husband to put the shocks on that he has been riding around with in the back of his HHR. So now i need the shocks and battery. A motor or transmission mount. (haven't determined which yet) no doubt it will be which ever is the most difficult.
I need if possible step by step instructions, for the altenator and shocks. (for now more to come) so I can get out there and get her back on the road so I can get out of his HHR (I hate the HHR, tires too fat)
I've read the altenator comes out the bottom, Ok sounds like fun. And I'm pretty sure I can do the shocks myself but any tips, tricks, or pointers would help i'm sure" I have all the tools a girl could want. But not all the experience a "guy" would need.I'm probably going to start first thing one morning and settle in for a day of cussing.
I quit drinking about 5 years ago.
Cross your fingers this dosen't make me take it up again.
Thank you to any and all in advance for your help.
Sue

P.S. say a lil prayer for me
====================
replacing the shocks is easy -

FIRST -
use some rust penetrating spray on the lower mounting bolts - let them soak for a couple days -

STEP #1
the upper mounts are in the trunk -
remove the carpeting and trim to get to the nuts -

remove the cover -
remove the two mounting nuts - NOT the big single nut in the center -

do BOTH sides -

STEP #2
jack up the car - support it with jack stands -

STEP #3
remove the air lines -
simply twist the metal keeper a quarter turn to unlock the air line plug -
then twist the plug and pull it off the shock -
NOTE - it will probably stiff and difficult to twist/move -
a shot of WD40 or rust penetrating spray might help -

STEP #4
remove the 2 bottom mounting bolts -

STEP #5
remove the large nut at the upper mount -

STEP #6 - VERY IMPORTANT -
remove the little protective plug in the air hole of the new shocks
and extend the shock piston fully -

STEP #7
reinstall the upper mount - DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BIG NUT -

STEP #8
put the shock in place - line up the upper mount -
and install the 2 lower mounting bolts -

STEP #9
plug the air lines in and secure the metal keeper

STEP #10
install the 2 nuts on the upper mount -

STEP #12
lower the car and tighten the center nut in the upper mount -

LASTLY -
reinstall the trim -
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
====================
replacing the shocks is easy -

FIRST -
use some rust penetrating spray on the lower mounting bolts - let them soak for a couple days -

STEP #1
the upper mounts are in the trunk -
remove the carpeting and trim to get to the nuts -

remove the cover -
remove the two mounting nuts - NOT the big single nut in the center -

do BOTH sides -

STEP #2
jack up the car - support it with jack stands -

STEP #3
remove the air lines -
simply twist the metal keeper a quarter turn to unlock the air line plug -
then twist the plug and pull it off the shock -
NOTE - it will probably stiff and difficult to twist/move -
a shot of WD40 or rust penetrating spray might help -

STEP #4
remove the 2 bottom mounting bolts -

STEP #5
remove the large nut at the upper mount -

STEP #6 - VERY IMPORTANT -
remove the little protective plug in the air hole of the new shocks
and extend the shock piston fully -

STEP #7
reinstall the upper mount - DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BIG NUT -

STEP #8
put the shock in place - line up the upper mount -
and install the 2 lower mounting bolts -

STEP #9
plug the air lines in and secure the metal keeper

STEP #10
install the 2 nuts on the upper mount -

STEP #12
lower the car and tighten the center nut in the upper mount -

LASTLY -
reinstall the trim -
Thanks basscatt, seems pretty cut and dry. But I have a new problem, the altenator!! I might need to travel for work and at a moments notice. What amp altenator do you recommend and where can i get it the fastest at a very reasonable price?. I checked advance auto a rebuilt it around $150, But a new one, $589.00 yikes. I really don't want to put a rebuilt one on but I don't reallydon't have much choice.
Also do I really need to remove the radiator? what if I'm replacing most of the front end parts? Both front lower control arms and ball joints, all 4 inner and outter tie rod ends, sway bar links and tie rod boots would that open the area enough?
Yes she's been used and abused. But I'm trying to get her back to her "before my boy thought she was HIS toy" condition
Stay tuned, next week I find out what mount needs replacing. Will it be motor mount or possibly a transmission mount? (If I'm really lucky it will be both)
Place your bets now, You'll have to come back to see if you won.
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
20,976 Posts
Thanks basscatt, seems pretty cut and dry. But I have a new problem, the altenator!! I might need to travel for work and at a moments notice. What amp altenator do you recommend and where can i get it the fastest at a very reasonable price?. I checked advance auto a rebuilt it around $150, But a new one, $589.00 yikes. I really don't want to put a rebuilt one on but I don't reallydon't have much choice.
Also do I really need to remove the radiator? what if I'm replacing most of the front end parts? Both front lower control arms and ball joints, all 4 inner and outter tie rod ends, sway bar links and tie rod boots would that open the area enough?
Yes she's been used and abused. But I'm trying to get her back to her "before my boy thought she was HIS toy" condition
Stay tuned, next week I find out what mount needs replacing. Will it be motor mount or possibly a transmission mount? (If I'm really lucky it will be both)
Place your bets now, You'll have to come back to see if you won.
=========================
IF - and that's a BIG IF - you actually do need a new alternator -
DO NOT be tempted to get a "lifetime warranty" - house-brand unit from the local auto parts store -
UNLESS you want to become an expert at replacing them -

I would recommend a brand new REMY 94177 - $115 - including shipping - and NO core charge -
from ROCKAUTO.COM -

BUT WAIT!

I just found a KILLER DEAL for you - same REMY alternator - $99 - with free shipping -

======================

the alternator is a MAJOR pain-in-the-ass to remove and install -
originally - it was put on the motor BEFORE the motor was put into the car -

take a look through the TechTips forum - here -
someone MIGHT have posted some helpful hints -
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
=========================
IF - and that's a BIG IF - you actually do need a new alternator -
DO NOT be tempted to get a "lifetime warranty" - house-brand unit from the local auto parts store -
UNLESS you want to become an expert at replacing them -

I would recommend a brand new REMY 94177 - $115 - including shipping - and NO core charge -
from ROCKAUTO.COM -

BUT WAIT!

I just found a KILLER DEAL for you - same REMY alternator - $99 - with free shipping -

======================

the alternator is a MAJOR pain-in-the-ass to remove and install -
originally - it was put on the motor BEFORE the motor was put into the car -

take a look through the TechTips forum - here -
someone MIGHT have posted some helpful hints -
Great thank you so much. I already ordered the alt. I just got the email it's at the store ready for pick up. I also want to do all the front end while she's up on jack stands. do you think it will be any easier with all those parts gone?
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great thank you so much. I already ordered the alt. I just got the email it's at the store ready for pick up. I also want to do all the front end while she's up on jack stands. do you think it will be any easier with all those parts gone?
====================
replacing the shocks is easy -

FIRST -
use some rust penetrating spray on the lower mounting bolts - let them soak for a couple days -

STEP #1
the upper mounts are in the trunk -
remove the carpeting and trim to get to the nuts -

remove the cover -
remove the two mounting nuts - NOT the big single nut in the center -

do BOTH sides -

STEP #2
jack up the car - support it with jack stands -

STEP #3
remove the air lines -
simply twist the metal keeper a quarter turn to unlock the air line plug -
then twist the plug and pull it off the shock -
NOTE - it will probably stiff and difficult to twist/move -
a shot of WD40 or rust penetrating spray might help -

STEP #4
remove the 2 bottom mounting bolts -

STEP #5
remove the large nut at the upper mount -

STEP #6 - VERY IMPORTANT -
remove the little protective plug in the air hole of the new shocks
and extend the shock piston fully -

STEP #7
reinstall the upper mount - DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BIG NUT -

STEP #8
put the shock in place - line up the upper mount -
and install the 2 lower mounting bolts -

STEP #9
plug the air lines in and secure the metal keeper

STEP #10
install the 2 nuts on the upper mount -

STEP #12
lower the car and tighten the center nut in the upper mount -

LASTLY -
reinstall the trim -
OK replaced shocks with Monroe MA822's also got AK29 air line kit. Now I know your sitting there shaking your head at me but..... With the MA822's can I still hook the airlines to the onboard compressor? Will they work with it? Or are they strickly manual fill shocks? I looked at the codes under the tire cover and saw FE1 but no matter I don't know it means anyway. there was no wire going to the top of the shock only the airline. I do however have a picture of what i beleive to be the sensor for the suspension, I took when I had my new tires put on. (see below)
Because after installing shocks and connecting the air line to the onboard compressor. I started the car, the compressor kicked on twice for a second but didn't do anything. Releasing the E-brake and putting it in gear the compressor kicked on but didn't seem to raise the car much, if at all. The compressor did shut off after a few minutes maybe as much as 5 minutes. I still have all the airline supplied in the kit hooked up, not cut to lenght yet. Not being sure of what to do next. Do I need to drive it some for the computer to "re-learn" the ride height? Is what I did just completely wrong? (please say no)
In any event. Anything will be an improvment to the drag ass she was before, be it manual fill or auto fill.

On another topic,
Any tricks up your sleeve for changing the cabin filter? Aside from being a contortionist
After reading a few posts about it and watching some videos,. (Which by the way should not be done for bedtime reading as it will give you nightmares) I am dreading the thought of inserting myself in a place designed for my feet.
IMG_20200914_122210475.jpg
IMG_20200914_122339944.jpg
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
20,976 Posts
OK replaced shocks with Monroe MA822's also got AK29 air line kit. Now I know your sitting there shaking your head at me but..... With the MA822's can I still hook the airlines to the onboard compressor? Will they work with it? Or are they strickly manual fill shocks? I looked at the codes under the tire cover and saw FE1 but no matter I don't know it means anyway. there was no wire going to the top of the shock only the airline. I do however have a picture of what i beleive to be the sensor for the suspension, I took when I had my new tires put on. (see below)
Because after installing shocks and connecting the air line to the onboard compressor. I started the car, the compressor kicked on twice for a second but didn't do anything. Releasing the E-brake and putting it in gear the compressor kicked on but didn't seem to raise the car much, if at all. The compressor did shut off after a few minutes maybe as much as 5 minutes. I still have all the airline supplied in the kit hooked up, not cut to lenght yet. Not being sure of what to do next. Do I need to drive it some for the computer to "re-learn" the ride height? Is what I did just completely wrong? (please say no)
In any event. Anything will be an improvment to the drag ass she was before, be it manual fill or auto fill.

On another topic,
Any tricks up your sleeve for changing the cabin filter? Aside from being a contortionist
After reading a few posts about it and watching some videos,. (Which by the way should not be done for bedtime reading as it will give you nightmares) I am dreading the thought of inserting myself in a place designed for my feet.
View attachment 588066
View attachment 588067
=========================
Now I know your sitting there shaking your head at me but.....
NOPE - not at all - happy to answer your questions -

With the MA822's can I still hook the airlines to the onboard compressor?
absolutely -
the MA822 is a direct-fit replacement - meaning there are NO modifications required -
the original factory air lines WILL plug right in -
and the shocks WILL function correctly at the original factory pressures -

Will they work with it?
YES -
assuming the compressor assembly - the ride height sensor - and the air lines all function correctly -

Or are they strickly manual fill shocks?
NOPE - either way -
you CAN use the AK29 air line kit to convert to a manual-fill system
if the ELC components are no longer functioning properly
and you don't want to spend the big bucks to fix it -

I looked at the codes under the tire cover and saw FE1 but no matter I don't know it means anyway.
there were TWO different suspension systems -

the SLS - Seville Luxury Sedan - has the FE1 = SOFT RIDE -
"normal" coil springs and "normal" size sway bars

the STS - Seville Touring Sedan - has the FE3 = SPORT SUSPENSION -
this has MUCH stiffer springs and larger diameter sway bars
resulting in a MUCH harder ride

there was no wire going to the top of the shock only the airline.
CORRECT -
the SLS does NOT have the electronic F45 or F55 struts and shocks used on the STS -

I do however have a picture of what i beleive to be the sensor for the suspension
also CORRECT -
that is the RIDE HEIGHT sensor -

I started the car, the compressor kicked on twice for a second but didn't do anything
every time you turn the ignition ON - the ELC compressor goes through it's own "self check" -
the compressor runs for around 30 seconds - then shuts off -
then the exhaust solenoid activates to release some air from the bladders -

if the compressor runs for a while - but the rear does NOT raise -
the problem is usually a faulty exhaust solenoid - you may - or may not get a C06XX code -

many years ago you could get a new replacement exhaust solenoid -
now the solution is to replace the entire compressor assembly -
a cheap aftermarket compressor assembly costs around $175 -
a good aftermarket compressor runs around $275 -
a new ACDelco compressor is $550 from amazon -

the compressor is "hidden" up in the rear fender - behind the wheel -
you must drop the exhaust system to replace it - dropping the exhaust is NOT that bad -

Do I need to drive it some for the computer to "re-learn" the ride height?
NOPE - either it works right away - or it doesn't -

Is what I did just completely wrong?
NOPE - you done GOOD! -
problem is the compressor is shot -

In any event. Anything will be an improvment to the drag ass she was before, be it manual fill or auto fill.
YUP -
HOWEVER - and this is VERY important -
DO NOT drive around with no air in the bladders - you WILL damage them -

MINIMUM air pressure in the bladders is 15PSI -

Any tricks up your sleeve for changing the cabin filter?
YUP - PRAY!
and when you get the old filter out -
DO NOT PUT A NEW FILTER IN - just leave it out -
the ONLY thing that filter does is keep the squirrel cage blower fan clean -

I am dreading the thought of inserting myself in a place designed for my feet.
THAT is the EASY part - the guy who designed that system SHOULD BE FLOGGED!

put the floor mats on the ground next to the car to kneel on -
you NEED lots of padding - you'll probably be there for a while -

move the seat fully back - maybe a clean blanket on the floor to lean on -

the Seville uses a 3-piece filter that slides together -
the access door is next to the gas pedal - held in by a screw -

HOPEFULLY - using a long-nose pliers - SLOWLY pull the first part of the filter out -
in theory - the other two filter elements SHOULD drop down -
sometimes they do - most of the time they don't -

sometimes a generous dose of silicone spray on the plastic housing helps -

other times it's a real fight with a straightened coat hanger with a hook on the end -
ripping and tearing the filters into little pieces for hours - to get it ALL out -

SO - you ask - what if I DON'T get it ALL out?
the remaining pieces WILL get sucked into the blower
and either make a lot of noise - or - if enough is there - actually stop the blower from spinning -
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
73,389 Posts
My ELC compressor does a 2-second self-check and preload about 6 seconds after Key: ON. The only time I have ever heard it run again after that preload is when I put a couple of people in the rear seat or when I loaded a bunch of cinder block a few years ago.

Yep - FE1 = soft springs, passive suspension. No electrical wires going to the shocks.

Changing the cabin air filter is an unholy bitch of a job. I took mine out in 2006 and never installed another - after reading some of the old threads on the subject. Never regretted leaving it out but the car is garaged and not parked under trees. If the car is not always garaged you might want to suffer the replacement process. You WILL learn new words.

2000+ Seville CAF.jpg
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
=========================
Now I know your sitting there shaking your head at me but.....
NOPE - not at all - happy to answer your questions -

With the MA822's can I still hook the airlines to the onboard compressor?
absolutely -
the MA822 is a direct-fit replacement - meaning there are NO modifications required -
the original factory air lines WILL plug right in -
and the shocks WILL function correctly at the original factory pressures -

Will they work with it?
YES -
assuming the compressor assembly - the ride height sensor - and the air lines all function correctly -

Or are they strickly manual fill shocks?
NOPE - either way -
you CAN use the AK29 air line kit to convert to a manual-fill system
if the ELC components are no longer functioning properly
and you don't want to spend the big bucks to fix it -

I looked at the codes under the tire cover and saw FE1 but no matter I don't know it means anyway.
there were TWO different suspension systems -

the SLS - Seville Luxury Sedan - has the FE1 = SOFT RIDE -
"normal" coil springs and "normal" size sway bars

the STS - Seville Touring Sedan - has the FE3 = SPORT SUSPENSION -
this has MUCH stiffer springs and larger diameter sway bars
resulting in a MUCH harder ride

there was no wire going to the top of the shock only the airline.
CORRECT -
the SLS does NOT have the electronic F45 or F55 struts and shocks used on the STS -

I do however have a picture of what i beleive to be the sensor for the suspension
also CORRECT -
that is the RIDE HEIGHT sensor -

I started the car, the compressor kicked on twice for a second but didn't do anything
every time you turn the ignition ON - the ELC compressor goes through it's own "self check" -
the compressor runs for around 30 seconds - then shuts off -
then the exhaust solenoid activates to release some air from the bladders -

if the compressor runs for a while - but the rear does NOT raise -
the problem is usually a faulty exhaust solenoid - you may - or may not get a C06XX code -

many years ago you could get a new replacement exhaust solenoid -
now the solution is to replace the entire compressor assembly -
a cheap aftermarket compressor assembly costs around $175 -
a good aftermarket compressor runs around $275 -
a new ACDelco compressor is $550 from amazon -
[/URL]

the compressor is "hidden" up in the rear fender - behind the wheel -
you must drop the exhaust system to replace it - dropping the exhaust is NOT that bad -

Do I need to drive it some for the computer to "re-learn" the ride height?
NOPE - either it works right away - or it doesn't -

Is what I did just completely wrong?
NOPE - you done GOOD! -
problem is the compressor is shot -

In any event. Anything will be an improvment to the drag ass she was before, be it manual fill or auto fill.
YUP -
HOWEVER - and this is VERY important -
DO NOT drive around with no air in the bladders - you WILL damage them -

MINIMUM air pressure in the bladders is 15PSI -

Any tricks up your sleeve for changing the cabin filter?
YUP - PRAY!
and when you get the old filter out -
DO NOT PUT A NEW FILTER IN - just leave it out -
the ONLY thing that filter does is keep the squirrel cage blower fan clean -

I am dreading the thought of inserting myself in a place designed for my feet.
THAT is the EASY part - the guy who designed that system SHOULD BE FLOGGED!

put the floor mats on the ground next to the car to kneel on -
you NEED lots of padding - you'll probably be there for a while -

move the seat fully back - maybe a clean blanket on the floor to lean on -

the Seville uses a 3-piece filter that slides together -
the access door is next to the gas pedal - held in by a screw -

HOPEFULLY - using a long-nose pliers - SLOWLY pull the first part of the filter out -
in theory - the other two filter elements SHOULD drop down -
sometimes they do - most of the time they don't -

sometimes a generous dose of silicone spray on the plastic housing helps -

other times it's a real fight with a straightened coat hanger with a hook on the end -
ripping and tearing the filters into little pieces for hours - to get it ALL out -

SO - you ask - what if I DON'T get it ALL out?
the remaining pieces WILL get sucked into the blower
and either make a lot of noise - or - if enough is there - actually stop the blower from spinning -
Thank you once again Bass,
Not only education and informational but entertaing too. You have no idea how happy I am to hear I done good! I really din't want tell my husband to jack her up and start over. I'm gonna keep finding thing wrong and posting here you can keep the awesome information flowing. It'll be like rebuilding a car virtually.
My ELC compressor does a 2-second self-check and preload about 6 seconds after Key: ON. The only time I have ever heard it run again after that preload is when I put a couple of people in the rear seat or when I loaded a bunch of cinder block a few years ago.

Yep - FE1 = soft springs, passive suspension. No electrical wires going to the shocks.

Changing the cabin air filter is an unholy bitch of a job. I took mine out in 2006 and never installed another - after reading some of the old threads on the subject. Never regretted leaving it out but the car is garaged and not parked under trees. If the car is not always garaged you might want to suffer the replacement process. You WILL learn new words.

View attachment 588085
Thanks sub. she's not in a garage. just a carport type coverall. And I have in the past had a critter problem so definetly don't want any critters getting in.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
73,389 Posts
Critter problems might be solved by putting a couple of clothes dryer fabric softener sheets in the trunk, under the rear seat, in the glove box, and balled up in a few places in the engine compartment. Believe it or not, a healthy fabric softener spray of the usual tire patches in the car port helps. Mice will not walk over the sprayed areas.

If you want to get really aggressive, hit the Home Depot or Lowe's for a spray jug of deer and rabbit repellent. It's a mix of putrefied beef blood and some fox urine - we can't smell it but mammalian critters just HATE the stuff. I shoot the garage door concrete aprons once a month and have no troubles.
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK replaced shocks with Monroe MA822's also got AK29 air line kit. Now I know your sitting there shaking your head at me but..... With the MA822's can I still hook the airlines to the onboard compressor? Will they work with it? Or are they strickly manual fill shocks? I looked at the codes under the tire cover and saw FE1 but no matter I don't know it means anyway. there was no wire going to the top of the shock only the airline. I do however have a picture of what i beleive to be the sensor for the suspension, I took when I had my new tires put on. (see below)
Because after installing shocks and connecting the air line to the onboard compressor. I started the car, the compressor kicked on twice for a second but didn't do anything. Releasing the E-brake and putting it in gear the compressor kicked on but didn't seem to raise the car much, if at all. The compressor did shut off after a few minutes maybe as much as 5 minutes. I still have all the airline supplied in the kit hooked up, not cut to lenght yet. Not being sure of what to do next. Do I need to drive it some for the computer to "re-learn" the ride height? Is what I did just completely wrong? (please say no)
In any event. Anything will be an improvment to the drag ass she was before, be it manual fill or auto fill.

On another topic,
Any tricks up your sleeve for changing the cabin filter? Aside from being a contortionist
After reading a few posts about it and watching some videos,. (Which by the way should not be done for bedtime reading as it will give you nightmares) I am dreading the thought of inserting myself in a place designed for my feet.
View attachment 588066
View attachment 588067
Well manually filled the shocks to 50 lbs. and over night they dropped to 35 lbs. Husband said fittings are only finger tight cause he didn't want to strip them. But my compressor isn't pumping any air and it won't shut off for about 10 minutes. My husband thinks he can rebuild it.( he's pretty good with that kind of stuff) besides it's not working now he can't make it any worse. Is there any specs for the air lines? like finger tight then 1 1/2 turns or a torque wrench lbs/psi. Ane we can't find any switch for it to shut it off or a fuse, any ideas?
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
20,976 Posts
Well manually filled the shocks to 50 lbs. and over night they dropped to 35 lbs. Husband said fittings are only finger tight cause he didn't want to strip them. But my compressor isn't pumping any air and it won't shut off for about 10 minutes. My husband thinks he can rebuild it.( he's pretty good with that kind of stuff) besides it's not working now he can't make it any worse. Is there any specs for the air lines? like finger tight then 1 1/2 turns or a torque wrench lbs/psi. Ane we can't find any switch for it to shut it off or a fuse, any ideas?
=====================
Well manually filled the shocks to 50 lbs. and over night they dropped to 35 lbs.
Husband said fittings are only finger tight cause he didn't want to strip them.

the MONROE AK29 air line connections get sealed by the tiny "O" rings
so the plastic nuts should be snug - BUT only finger tight - no tools -

to find leaks - manually inflate the bladders to as high as 100psi -
NO - you will NOT blow them up -

if you're chicken - inflate them to 75psi -

use a 50/50 mixture of dish washing soap and water -
pour into a sprayer of some sort - and spray the various connections -
watch for bubbles -

my compressor isn't pumping any air and it won't shut off for about 10 minutes.
My husband thinks he can rebuild it.( he's pretty good with that kind of stuff)

the problem is NOT the compressor - per se -
the exhaust solenoid is built into the cylinder head of the compressor assembly -
THAT is usually the issue - it is stuck open - it's just NOT a simple/repairable job -

as I said before -
to remove the compressor assembly -
you MUST drop the exhaust system -

Ane we can't find any switch for it to shut it off or a fuse, any ideas?
YUP - remove these:
RELAY #55 and FUSE #64 - both under the back seat -
 

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2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
=====================
Well manually filled the shocks to 50 lbs. and over night they dropped to 35 lbs.
Husband said fittings are only finger tight cause he didn't want to strip them.

the MONROE AK29 air line connections get sealed by the tiny "O" rings
so the plastic nuts should be snug - BUT only finger tight - no tools -

to find leaks - manually inflate the bladders to as high as 100psi -
NO - you will NOT blow them up -

if you're chicken - inflate them to 75psi -

use a 50/50 mixture of dish washing soap and water -
pour into a sprayer of some sort - and spray the various connections -
watch for bubbles -

my compressor isn't pumping any air and it won't shut off for about 10 minutes.
My husband thinks he can rebuild it.( he's pretty good with that kind of stuff)

the problem is NOT the compressor - per se -
the exhaust solenoid is built into the cylinder head of the compressor assembly -
THAT is usually the issue - it is stuck open - it's just NOT a simple/repairable job -

as I said before -
to remove the compressor assembly -
you MUST drop the exhaust system -

Ane we can't find any switch for it to shut it off or a fuse, any ideas?
YUP - remove these:
RELAY #55 and FUSE #64 - both under the back seat -
More sound advice thanks. I'll be heading to South Carolina any minute just waiting for an email to tell me where and hen. Just trying to get pearl road trip worthy. Really hate to be a couple hundred miles from home ahd have her decide it's time for a whole new set of issues.
But since I will be on some interstates would be a good time to perform a WOT runs. I read about this on another forum and it seems a little excessive. It had to do with oil usage in the Northstar engines and barbon build up on piston walls and the rings seal properly. Also said the Northstar likes to be "used and abused"?
It said at 40 mph put it in second gear and go full throttle to 70, let off the gas and let the car bring itself to 40 then do it again to 70 ..... and so on.. 10 times. My thought is. Isn't 70 in second gear a little high? and to do it 10 times?

Theres also something going on with my stability controls. MY drivers information center reads service stability sys.
When my son was using the car he found the traction control button under the cup holder and in his infinate wisdom pushing the button 10-20 times will do something. Well alls it managed to do was make my ABS and another light come on on the dash. I noticed the other day while driving in the rain my antilock arn't working when I hit the breaks they locked up instead of pulsating.
I just attempted to get codes from the DTC i held the up arrow and the on and off for about 4 seconds but i don't think it was giving me codes but asking me what to read or which ones to read,I got:
VTD?
TIM?
SDM?
RIM?
RFA?
PCM?
MSM?
IRC?
IPM?
IPC?
DIM?
DDM?
AMP?
ABS?
are those all codes or just the beginning of a chapter of codes for each?
You really need a hotline number:rolleyes:
Have you seen/ and if so whats your opinion of Northstar performance? And their custom tuning ? real or I wish it were real?
Northstar performance (link)
I''m getting horrible milage. (right now im glad im getting $.57 a mile from work. The idea of getting more performance and better gas milage sounds too good to be true.
Well that should make for enough good reading for one post, I'll be back with more, you can count on it.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
73,389 Posts
For reading codes it should ask "ALL CODES ?" and you reply "YES" with the correct DIC button. Study the section by JimD -

If you want to manually scroll the modules you answer "NO", scroll to a module and answer "YES".


DIC controls.jpg


With the cooling system in perfect condition and the correct engine oil level, have at it.........

You can put the shift stick in 1 and run the car to its speed limiter cutoff - 112 mph for your VIN Y car, 130 for a VIN 9 car. The engine/transmission won't let you break anything. With your gas pedal through the firewall the system will upshift at the correct redline rpm of 6400. Foot off the gas, coastdown, the system will downshift at the correct speed/load to prevent damage/rpm overspeed.

A simple way to clean out the engine and exhaust system is to find a deserted smooth road, put the stick in 1 and, from a slow roll, floor it. Keep your foot to the floor up to about 75 - 80, flip it off the gas pedal and let the engine pull the car down to less than 10 mph. Lots of black smoke on the acceleration run? Do it again.

Or, read the "Occasional full throttle operation ..........." section of this Northstar article, written by a GM Northstar Systems powertrain engineer.


Matter of fact, read the whole thing. Good Northstar info. (FWIW I run my 2002 STS (W/Z rated) up to over 143 mph with the stick in 1.)
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For reading codes it should ask "ALL CODES ?" and you reply "YES" with the correct DIC button. Study the section by JimD -

If you want to manually scroll the modules you answer "NO", scroll to a module and answer "YES".


View attachment 588195

With the cooling system in perfect condition and the correct engine oil level, have at it.........

You can put the shift stick in 1 and run the car to its speed limiter cutoff - 112 mph for your VIN Y car, 130 for a VIN 9 car. The engine/transmission won't let you break anything. With your gas pedal through the firewall the system will upshift at the correct redline rpm of 6400. Foot off the gas, coastdown, the system will downshift at the correct speed/load to prevent damage/rpm overspeed.

A simple way to clean out the engine and exhaust system is to find a deserted smooth road, put the stick in 1 and, from a slow roll, floor it. Keep your foot to the floor up to about 75 - 80, flip it off the gas pedal and let the engine pull the car down to less than 10 mph. Lots of black smoke on the acceleration run? Do it again.

Or, read the "Occasional full throttle operation ..........." section of this Northstar article, written by a GM Northstar Systems powertrain engineer.


Matter of fact, read the whole thing. Good Northstar info. (FWIW I run my 2002 STS (W/Z rated) up to over 143 mph with the stick in 1.)
I guess I have a limiter on mine because husband said is tops. then it starts spitting and sputtering. Where I live there arn't many straight nice roads. mostly limerock roads, plenty of bumps and potholes. I wouldn't think of trying anything over 50ish on them. And with all the rain we just had that limerock is like slime. slicker than snot.
When I brought up the codes the first one was VTD? didn't see ALL CODES? Well I'm pretty sure I didn't. I'll read the article you suggested and maybe try it again later.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
73,389 Posts
Our cars have an engine rpm limiter set to 4,000 when in P or D. The vehicle speed limiter is 112 for a Y car, 130 for a 9 car, and over 149 for the few Z cars (which were mostly EURO/Japan export STS).

?? Y, 9, Z ?? The 8th character of the VIN gives the powertrain type for that car.

VIN character definitions.gif
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Our cars have an engine rpm limiter set to 4,000 when in P or D. The vehicle speed limiter is 112 for a Y car, 130 for a 9 car, and over 149 for the few Z cars (which were mostly EURO/Japan export STS).

?? Y, 9, Z ?? The 8th character of the VIN gives the powertrain type for that car.

View attachment 588197
Mine would be the Y so 112. I ran my OBD this morning dropping my son off at work. these look ok?
I'm reading up on what each one is for and what it means to the bottom line. At the same time I'm shopping for a new cell phone so been reading up on a lot of that info too. Possibly on Information Overload. Guess I'll know when my phone needs an oil change and my car's on airplane mode.
 

Attachments

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
20,976 Posts
More sound advice thanks. I'll be heading to South Carolina any minute just waiting for an email to tell me where and hen. Just trying to get pearl road trip worthy. Really hate to be a couple hundred miles from home ahd have her decide it's time for a whole new set of issues.
But since I will be on some interstates would be a good time to perform a WOT runs. I read about this on another forum and it seems a little excessive. It had to do with oil usage in the Northstar engines and barbon build up on piston walls and the rings seal properly. Also said the Northstar likes to be "used and abused"?
It said at 40 mph put it in second gear and go full throttle to 70, let off the gas and let the car bring itself to 40 then do it again to 70 ..... and so on.. 10 times. My thought is. Isn't 70 in second gear a little high? and to do it 10 times?

Theres also something going on with my stability controls. MY drivers information center reads service stability sys.
When my son was using the car he found the traction control button under the cup holder and in his infinate wisdom pushing the button 10-20 times will do something. Well alls it managed to do was make my ABS and another light come on on the dash. I noticed the other day while driving in the rain my antilock arn't working when I hit the breaks they locked up instead of pulsating.
I just attempted to get codes from the DTC i held the up arrow and the on and off for about 4 seconds but i don't think it was giving me codes but asking me what to read or which ones to read,I got:
VTD?
TIM?
SDM?
RIM?
RFA?
PCM?
MSM?
IRC?
IPM?
IPC?
DIM?
DDM?
AMP?
ABS?
are those all codes or just the beginning of a chapter of codes for each?
You really need a hotline number:rolleyes:
Have you seen/ and if so whats your opinion of Northstar performance? And their custom tuning ? real or I wish it were real?
Northstar performance (link)
I''m getting horrible milage. (right now im glad im getting $.57 a mile from work. The idea of getting more performance and better gas milage sounds too good to be true.
Well that should make for enough good reading for one post, I'll be back with more, you can count on it.
=============================
But since I will be on some interstates would be a good time to perform a WOT runs
the entire WOT PROCEDURE can be beneficial to the health and well-being of the Northstar motor -
WHEN DONE PROPERLY -
just flooring the accelerator IS fun - but has NO benefits -

the idea is to "load up" the top of the piston rings during the hard and high RPM acceleration -
then suck up a LOT of oil on the cylinder walls and wash away any carbon that was broken loose -
the second part - the deceleration - is the actual beneficial part -
and you probably DO NOT want to do that on the highway -

Also said the Northstar likes to be "used and abused"?
ya - well - USED - OK -
"ABUSED" to a Northstar is putting a mile to the store and shutting off -
never getting thoroughly warmed up - never getting "exercised" -

MY drivers information center reads service stability sys.
use the on-board scanner and check for DTC's - Diagnostic Trouble Codes -
here is a HowTo video - your Seville looks different - but works the same -

that message is usually triggered by a faulty STEERING WHEEL POSITION SENSOR
and is usually accompanied by a C1286 or C1287 or C1288 code -

When my son was using the car he found the traction control button . . . . . .
DAMN KIDS!
make him read the entire Owners Manual - cover-to-cover - TWICE -
BEFORE he even gets another ride in the car - much less gets to drive it -

the TRACTION CONTROL light is discussed on page 3-42 in the Owners Manual -
the ABS and TRACTION CONTROL button is discussed starting on page 4-6 in the OM -

if you don't have the Owners Manual - go here for a free download -

Have you seen/ and if so whats your opinion of Northstar performance?
Jake has been a member and sponsor on this forum for many years -
he developed and patented a special stud for fixing the head gasket issue -

And their custom tuning ?
NOPE - forget it! NO ONE has ever cracked the code on a 2000 and newer Northstar -

I''m getting horrible milage.
checking for codes MIGHT turn something up -
but - as long as you are going on a trip -
you could try adding a 20oz can to TECHRON to a full tank of gas -
this is the ONLY fuel system cleaner I would recommend -
 

·
2003 SLS
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
=============================
But since I will be on some interstates would be a good time to perform a WOT runs
the entire WOT PROCEDURE can be beneficial to the health and well-being of the Northstar motor -
WHEN DONE PROPERLY -
just flooring the accelerator IS fun - but has NO benefits -

the idea is to "load up" the top of the piston rings during the hard and high RPM acceleration -
then suck up a LOT of oil on the cylinder walls and wash away any carbon that was broken loose -
the second part - the deceleration - is the actual beneficial part -
and you probably DO NOT want to do that on the highway -

Also said the Northstar likes to be "used and abused"?
ya - well - USED - OK -
"ABUSED" to a Northstar is putting a mile to the store and shutting off -
never getting thoroughly warmed up - never getting "exercised" -

MY drivers information center reads service stability sys.
use the on-board scanner and check for DTC's - Diagnostic Trouble Codes -
here is a HowTo video - your Seville looks different - but works the same -

that message is usually triggered by a faulty STEERING WHEEL POSITION SENSOR
and is usually accompanied by a C1286 or C1287 or C1288 code -

When my son was using the car he found the traction control button . . . . . .
DAMN KIDS!
make him read the entire Owners Manual - cover-to-cover - TWICE -
BEFORE he even gets another ride in the car - much less gets to drive it -

the TRACTION CONTROL light is discussed on page 3-42 in the Owners Manual -
the ABS and TRACTION CONTROL button is discussed starting on page 4-6 in the OM -

if you don't have the Owners Manual - go here for a free download -

Have you seen/ and if so whats your opinion of Northstar performance?
Jake has been a member and sponsor on this forum for many years -
he developed and patented a special stud for fixing the head gasket issue -

And their custom tuning ?
NOPE - forget it! NO ONE has ever cracked the code on a 2000 and newer Northstar -

I''m getting horrible milage.
checking for codes MIGHT turn something up -
but - as long as you are going on a trip -
you could try adding a 20oz can to TECHRON to a full tank of gas -
this is the ONLY fuel system cleaner I would recommend -
Well I have a new issue pop up. Every time i put the key in the ignition, not turn on the ignition, just put in ignition. My passenger mirror is trying to go past it's max and clicks like 5 or 6 times. Now I thought it was because I back into just about everywhere I park, and maybe it was still in reverse mode for the curb view. But today when I backed in my spot I waited until the mirror returned to it's normal position. Later i went out to clean her up a little before the trip and put on some seat covers I bought and as soon as the key was all the way in ignition it did it again. I had the switch on drivers side, and also tried it in the middle still does it. I've adjusted the mirror a few different times but nothing seems to stop it from clicking when I put the key in. It's never done this before that i'm aware of only since replacing the battery and altenator.
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
20,976 Posts
Well I have a new issue pop up. Every time i put the key in the ignition, not turn on the ignition, just put in ignition. My passenger mirror is trying to go past it's max and clicks like 5 or 6 times. Now I thought it was because I back into just about everywhere I park, and maybe it was still in reverse mode for the curb view. But today when I backed in my spot I waited until the mirror returned to it's normal position. Later i went out to clean her up a little before the trip and put on some seat covers I bought and as soon as the key was all the way in ignition it did it again. I had the switch on drivers side, and also tried it in the middle still does it. I've adjusted the mirror a few different times but nothing seems to stop it from clicking when I put the key in. It's never done this before that i'm aware of only since replacing the battery and altenator.
=======================
go into the FEATURE PROGRAMMING and turn the CURB VIEW off -
unless you want to replace a worn out mirror
 
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