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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, Im in the middle installing my eibach springs and fe4 shocks...
Im done the rear but I am having trouble the ball joint from the steering knuckle on the front of the car... what do i do???

thanks.
 

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2006 CTS 2.8L
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The garage I had paid to do my springs warned me that these sockets might "break" when they took them off, and I would have to pay for new ones.

The didn't break though.

Can't give you any help, as I did not perform the install myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont think theyre broken.... at least i hope not :S

I was typing in a rush, I meant that I was having trouble separating the ball joint and the steering knuckle.
 

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2003 CTS Manual Trans., '93 STS
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You shouldn't have to mess with the ball joint on the steering knuckle at all! You remove the two bolts holding the bottom of the shock to the lower A-arm. Then remove the pinch bolt holding the Upper A-arm to the carrier. It should fall right off! If not, put a large screwdriver in the split portion and gently pry it apart until the upper A-arm comes out. Then the five bolts from under the hood holding the upper mount to the body. The whole strut comes out as a unit.



Incidentally, this pic is of an FE4 strut with the Eibach spring assembled, and FE4 strut all alone, and an FE3 strut alone. Notice the difference in the lower part of the spring mount attached in the middle the strut. The FE4 is free floating with a C-clip keeping it in place. The FE3 is welded on. Also, the FE4 is much beefier.
 

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You shouldn't have to mess with the ball joint on the steering knuckle at all! You remove the two bolts holding the bottom of the shock to the lower A-arm. Then remove the pinch bolt holding the Upper A-arm to the carrier. It should fall right off! If not, put a large screwdriver in the split portion and gently pry it apart until the upper A-arm comes out. Then the five bolts from under the hood holding the upper mount to the body. The whole strut comes out as a unit.



Incidentally, this pic is of an FE4 strut with the Eibach spring assembled, and FE4 strut all alone, and an FE3 strut alone. Notice the difference in the lower part of the spring mount attached in the middle the strut. The FE4 is free floating with a C-clip keeping it in place. The FE3 is welded on. Also, the FE4 is much beefier.
What ody said. Hope you have a spring compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I fell so dumb, I removed the pinch bolt and even pried apart the split portion of the carrier with a screwdriver but the upper A-arm still didnt come out. I dont know what to do

And ya, got have a spring compressor:)
 

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Penetrating oil? Another 'trick' that must be applied very carefully, is to hold a large hammer on one side of the upright at the pinch bolt joint, and whack the the opposite side with another hammer. The object is NOT to hit the actual ball joint, but to set up a vibration in the friction areas to break loose any cold welds that happen over time. This is a common way to get ball joints off without destroying them when using a pickle fork.
 

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XO-
how much did your shop...err...how much is typical for a shop to do it for you?
 

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2006 CTS 2.8L
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It took a local shop three hours to put the springs in, then my new wheels, then align them for me.

They even said to come back after 90 days for a free re-alignment because the springs will settle and you will need to re-align the wheels again.
I will be going back in September..
 

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expensive?...
 

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I fell so dumb, I removed the pinch bolt and even pried apart the split portion of the carrier with a screwdriver but the upper A-arm still didnt come out. I dont know what to do

And ya, got have a spring compressor:)
Make sure the other side is also off the ground. If the other wheel is bearing weight, the sway bar will transmit the force to both wheels and you will have a lot of trouble popping the ball joint from the knuckle.
 

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Yes, the three hours of labor came to about $350. Since I knew I couldn't do it myself, it was the only way.
 
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