I just bought a new set of spark plugs for my 4100 > I alway's buy the A/C Delco plugs > they seem to work the best, it's been 3 years since i have changed them so they are well over due. I replaced the plug wires with 8mm type with the Heavy Duty Boots that go over the plug. I am in Complete agreement with Katshot on replacing the Wires with the plugs> I am pretty sure that i had to change the "Coil" on top of the distributor cap 3 years ago as well. I removed my Cap today and cleaned the terminals inside of it > They had carbon deposits on them so i will have to replace the cap and rotor B-4 Winter! 2dfx I would replace the NGK plugs with whatever the car came Factory with> just my opinion.
Help! DeVille is dying!
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21 - 26 of 26 Posts
Well I took it to the dealership today - they're gonna put it on the scope and check the ignition timing. They think it's a dead cylinder and they did recommend to use nothing but ACDelco plugs in it.SoundAdvantage said:
We shall see!
2DFX > Whats the status on your engine? what did the Dealer say after it was put on the scope? Does it run good now?
Any updates on this. I know its been a while since this happened, but Im trying everything.
Blaze
Blaze
I hate to bring this up, but are you sure you got the order right? I had a landlord who had problems after a spark plug change for no apparent reason and he swore he changed them right. We finally got out the book and counted and surprise! a switch.
No matter the cause, I think a compression loss is responsible for these stalls in older cars. You could just keep tightening the idle bolt on pre 1985 cars.
Just because you don't hear a vacuum leak from the tubes, doesn't mean the engine itself isn't leaking. I noticed my 4.5 hisses for a minute after it is shut off. this is vacuum escpaing from the engine iteself. That might not be a good thing, but it is a sign that the engine is maintaining compression when it runs. I used the maintenance size Bars Leak and it smoothed the ride considerably. I am considering doing the same thing for the crankcase since there is a slight oil smell. I just paid to steam clean it and have to try and find the source. 1 mechanic said no leaks, 1 crankcase seal, (1100$), 1 valve cover (most popular internet reason).
Does your engine smell or burn oil/fluids? What temp does it run at?
These will give people a better idea how desperate your engine is.
I have listed below my efforts to seal up my cadillac. I hope it helps you. I am interested in your car's symptoms and if trying to plug any leaks as I did will help. Maybe someone can help me. I am not done yet...
I "found" a truck/car repair center in Laurel Md. that got rid of all my 1990 Eldorado's computer codes (after I unplugged battery for 1/2 hr 1st). It broke down on I-95 due to a ground strap from the distributor. When I bought it, the car smelled, the dashboard went blank and it got 13 mpg. After my local mechanic was done, it went to 17 but then emission light came on. When done in Laurel, it got 20.5 mpg on the way home. So despite a persistent, albeit, much decreased, slight oil smell, the engine itself is running near optimal condition and has incredible pick up.
I also have a question for the more experienced with caddy's. Should the dashboard always remain constant or does it brighten periodically, to wake you up?
No matter the cause, I think a compression loss is responsible for these stalls in older cars. You could just keep tightening the idle bolt on pre 1985 cars.
Just because you don't hear a vacuum leak from the tubes, doesn't mean the engine itself isn't leaking. I noticed my 4.5 hisses for a minute after it is shut off. this is vacuum escpaing from the engine iteself. That might not be a good thing, but it is a sign that the engine is maintaining compression when it runs. I used the maintenance size Bars Leak and it smoothed the ride considerably. I am considering doing the same thing for the crankcase since there is a slight oil smell. I just paid to steam clean it and have to try and find the source. 1 mechanic said no leaks, 1 crankcase seal, (1100$), 1 valve cover (most popular internet reason).
Does your engine smell or burn oil/fluids? What temp does it run at?
These will give people a better idea how desperate your engine is.
I have listed below my efforts to seal up my cadillac. I hope it helps you. I am interested in your car's symptoms and if trying to plug any leaks as I did will help. Maybe someone can help me. I am not done yet...
I "found" a truck/car repair center in Laurel Md. that got rid of all my 1990 Eldorado's computer codes (after I unplugged battery for 1/2 hr 1st). It broke down on I-95 due to a ground strap from the distributor. When I bought it, the car smelled, the dashboard went blank and it got 13 mpg. After my local mechanic was done, it went to 17 but then emission light came on. When done in Laurel, it got 20.5 mpg on the way home. So despite a persistent, albeit, much decreased, slight oil smell, the engine itself is running near optimal condition and has incredible pick up.
I also have a question for the more experienced with caddy's. Should the dashboard always remain constant or does it brighten periodically, to wake you up?
Re: Help! DeVille is dying! fixing an alum block caddy
I believe I have found my oil leak. Hopefully you will also be able to seal up your engine and return the lost performance.
The crankcase cover did show fresh oil after last week's steam cleaning. I was also able to follow this flow down to the oil pan cover, which was soaked again. There was a spot of caked on oil that didn't come off in the steam cleaning and I removed it. Back to the top. The largest bolt, closest to the leak, (15mm) was very loose. I realize they should be toruqued to a certain level but I didn't have a wrench so I tested the ones that were still tight and gave it a guess. Tight has to be better than loose and leaking.
I was not able to smell any more oil or oil burning, but after the steam cleaning I was only able to detect the smell downhills at some stops. If I get any more wet oil on the motor I will report back but I am pretty confident now.
I would be very interested to know if your deville has any of these leakiness problems and if so, did the sealants/bolt tightenings I have used help you?
I could use some comments on the air conditioner. The car sat about 10 months at an auction house so that could explain many things. The 1st time the air conditioner came on it was because the inside got too hot for the 70 something "heater" setting. It was accompanied by an "add collant" light. I figured it had a slow leak, so would add some. No one in NY near me had a can of the old stuff to top it off, so I bought the kit to convert.
Then I went to turn it on to get a guess at how much was in the system and the air came on cold with no warning light! At least I know there is not a major leak, or the system would be empty.
The car now has no outward problems and runs great. It passed inspection easily with an emission EO49 light up. It does, however, not want to run wide open throttle when in park. The only codes I have left are a distrubutor that the shop couldn't clear ( was the ground strap they said) and the oxygen sensors open slow. They advised a cleaner instead of replacement, and I have a new filter but haven't put it on yet.
I don't want to push why it sputters at mid pedal without changing the filter as I am afraid that might strain the pump and it is too expensive to change.
When in gear, repeating the pedal push gets s smooth acceleration and the car can gain 20 mph in a few car lengths. The engine power to body size of this eldorado is like a dragster.
My intiial idea was to get a reliable older model luxury car for 2500:
Total cost:
1000.00 1990 Ebay eldorado
75.00 tip because the guy claimed be paid 1150 (split diff)
175 tune up, spark plugs/wires/pcv/air filter, analysis
160.00 registration/plates
30.00 radiator flush-(anti-freeze Bars leak maintanence version)
230.00 Breakdown costs (50 cab, 80 train, 100 rental back)
600.00 (2 new goodyear infinity, diagnose ground strap (135) clear all comp codes,
test diverter valve, steam clean engine
20.00 fancy socket lug wrench w/ light (no one should have to change a tire with those little things provided)
30.00 oil change, dura lube additive, oil filter
10.00 gas filter
80.00 Unbreakable autolock (fixes break pedal to the floor, much better than theclub or other brake devices)
total 2410.00
MPG on trip home 13.8 mpg MPG after local mechanic 17, mpg after service center 20.5
Of course the failure to WOT could be a complicated issue with the fuel injectors etc and I could have simply bought a lemon. Thanks to the advice here, I think my cadillac repeated a syndrome that has landed many in the junk yard. The fact the car had a set of goodyear Regattas in good shape says the prior owner wass not afraid to spend money on the car. The blue paint started to show the primer and the esteem of the car is lowered. Then the radiator fluid is ignored because it looks fine to the normal person. The avg buyer's car runs hot, shakes more at stops and some bolts come loose; the leakiness becomes chronic. When the car is taken to a mechanic for the smells and smoking, the mechanic points to any available part that is crying and says 2-3000 dollars and we can fix that.
The transmission fluid was dripping out a loose pan, the oil was coiming out a loose crankcase seal and the radiator had no additive in it to help keep things from vaporizing everywhere.
Time will tell, but I think I caught this motor before it was due for the crusher. IMO. 138.000 should me a mid way point for a good cadillac. Am I being foolish to think I got a good deal on a touring coupe? The blue book is only 1700 but then any car should have a few 100 in maintnance and letting a mechanic go over it.
I believe I have found my oil leak. Hopefully you will also be able to seal up your engine and return the lost performance.
The crankcase cover did show fresh oil after last week's steam cleaning. I was also able to follow this flow down to the oil pan cover, which was soaked again. There was a spot of caked on oil that didn't come off in the steam cleaning and I removed it. Back to the top. The largest bolt, closest to the leak, (15mm) was very loose. I realize they should be toruqued to a certain level but I didn't have a wrench so I tested the ones that were still tight and gave it a guess. Tight has to be better than loose and leaking.
I was not able to smell any more oil or oil burning, but after the steam cleaning I was only able to detect the smell downhills at some stops. If I get any more wet oil on the motor I will report back but I am pretty confident now.
I would be very interested to know if your deville has any of these leakiness problems and if so, did the sealants/bolt tightenings I have used help you?
I could use some comments on the air conditioner. The car sat about 10 months at an auction house so that could explain many things. The 1st time the air conditioner came on it was because the inside got too hot for the 70 something "heater" setting. It was accompanied by an "add collant" light. I figured it had a slow leak, so would add some. No one in NY near me had a can of the old stuff to top it off, so I bought the kit to convert.
Then I went to turn it on to get a guess at how much was in the system and the air came on cold with no warning light! At least I know there is not a major leak, or the system would be empty.
The car now has no outward problems and runs great. It passed inspection easily with an emission EO49 light up. It does, however, not want to run wide open throttle when in park. The only codes I have left are a distrubutor that the shop couldn't clear ( was the ground strap they said) and the oxygen sensors open slow. They advised a cleaner instead of replacement, and I have a new filter but haven't put it on yet.
I don't want to push why it sputters at mid pedal without changing the filter as I am afraid that might strain the pump and it is too expensive to change.
When in gear, repeating the pedal push gets s smooth acceleration and the car can gain 20 mph in a few car lengths. The engine power to body size of this eldorado is like a dragster.
My intiial idea was to get a reliable older model luxury car for 2500:
Total cost:
1000.00 1990 Ebay eldorado
75.00 tip because the guy claimed be paid 1150 (split diff)
175 tune up, spark plugs/wires/pcv/air filter, analysis
160.00 registration/plates
30.00 radiator flush-(anti-freeze Bars leak maintanence version)
230.00 Breakdown costs (50 cab, 80 train, 100 rental back)
600.00 (2 new goodyear infinity, diagnose ground strap (135) clear all comp codes,
test diverter valve, steam clean engine
20.00 fancy socket lug wrench w/ light (no one should have to change a tire with those little things provided)
30.00 oil change, dura lube additive, oil filter
10.00 gas filter
80.00 Unbreakable autolock (fixes break pedal to the floor, much better than theclub or other brake devices)
total 2410.00
MPG on trip home 13.8 mpg MPG after local mechanic 17, mpg after service center 20.5
Of course the failure to WOT could be a complicated issue with the fuel injectors etc and I could have simply bought a lemon. Thanks to the advice here, I think my cadillac repeated a syndrome that has landed many in the junk yard. The fact the car had a set of goodyear Regattas in good shape says the prior owner wass not afraid to spend money on the car. The blue paint started to show the primer and the esteem of the car is lowered. Then the radiator fluid is ignored because it looks fine to the normal person. The avg buyer's car runs hot, shakes more at stops and some bolts come loose; the leakiness becomes chronic. When the car is taken to a mechanic for the smells and smoking, the mechanic points to any available part that is crying and says 2-3000 dollars and we can fix that.
The transmission fluid was dripping out a loose pan, the oil was coiming out a loose crankcase seal and the radiator had no additive in it to help keep things from vaporizing everywhere.
Time will tell, but I think I caught this motor before it was due for the crusher. IMO. 138.000 should me a mid way point for a good cadillac. Am I being foolish to think I got a good deal on a touring coupe? The blue book is only 1700 but then any car should have a few 100 in maintnance and letting a mechanic go over it.
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
