UPDATE!!!Katshot said:
I just pulled error code P053 which is Distributor Signal Interrupt.
I will check the cap and rotor to make sure there are no problems there but if there isnt, i'm wondering if the distributor itself it going?
Help! DeVille is dying!
Ok, shes stalling basically when I take my foot off the gas. It'll stumble then cut out. This is getting really frustrating and dangerous when I have to resart it every time I take my foot off the gas.
Another thing - the fuel gauge went from 23L to the "Fuel Level Very Low" warning in an instant! Yet when I filled it up, there was 23L in the tank!
Why am I stalling so much? Need help or else im gonna take it to the dealership andf have them work it over!
Another thing - the fuel gauge went from 23L to the "Fuel Level Very Low" warning in an instant! Yet when I filled it up, there was 23L in the tank!
Why am I stalling so much? Need help or else im gonna take it to the dealership andf have them work it over!
1 - 10 of 26 Posts
I just pulled error code P053 which is Distributor Signal Interrupt.
I will check the cap and rotor to make sure there are no problems there but if there isnt, i'm wondering if the distributor itself it going?
Checked the cap and rotor - connections corroded so I replaced them - still no improvement.Stoneage_Caddy said:id check all the wires that go to the distributor , maybe theres a loose connection somewhere or some corrosion inside the plug in connectors
distributors are expensive id make sure all the wires are ok to and from the distributor , and maybe check the sprak plugs wires too ,
do these distributors have "modules" ?
UPDATE!!!
Just got code P031 which is Shorted MAP Sensor Signal .
Bad MAP sensor?
bump
Ya im changing the map sensor tomorrow. The code keeps reoccuring and when its about to cut out the MIL comes on briefly then cuts out. Will provide updates.
Ya im changing the map sensor tomorrow. The code keeps reoccuring and when its about to cut out the MIL comes on briefly then cuts out. Will provide updates.
UPDATE!!!
I have reason to believe it's the ISC motor. I come to this conclusion because when it's accelerating, there is no problem. It is not a vacuum leak because it doesn't stumble or run poorly when on. Also, it will operate fine if theres no load, ie the transaxle - if I shift it into neutral right away after accelerating, the motor stays alive.
I will replace the ISC motor and set the timing and give you guys an update. That is if you even care at all.
I have reason to believe it's the ISC motor. I come to this conclusion because when it's accelerating, there is no problem. It is not a vacuum leak because it doesn't stumble or run poorly when on. Also, it will operate fine if theres no load, ie the transaxle - if I shift it into neutral right away after accelerating, the motor stays alive.
I will replace the ISC motor and set the timing and give you guys an update. That is if you even care at all.
Agreed. I owe you guys an aplolgy. I am definately grateful for all your contributions and support! It is helping me to solve this quandary of sorts and I appreciate all the feedback! Please forgive me!!! :crying:elwesso said:Would we have answered your initial question if we didnt CARE????
Please keep us updated
WTF!!! It just decided to resserect itself this morning!!! I go to start it to move it down the driveway, and roars to life! I was like 'This isnt right' and sure enough I took it out and it didn't stall!!! Does this have anything to do with the battery being disconnected? I assume this is how long it takes to relearn the idle data as this engine does not have an idle learn procedure?
I did manually clear codes, they don't reappear, and she works great....SoundAdvantage said:So how is your car running now? does it idle ok? How good does it run just above an idle? can you hear or feel it miss at all? did you Manually CLEAR Your codes and then Recheck them?
until this morning when I decided to change the spark plugs.
I gapped them properly and all that, tightened then to the best of my knowledge, but when I go out it rumbles at certain RPM ranges. Does this mean that I forgot to seat a wire? Is this the symptom of a dead cylinder, or is it more?
I replaced the plugs with NGK G-Power Platinum plugs and I also replaced the wires with Niehoff premium wires. I also put dielectric grease in the ends and seated them all properly.SoundAdvantage said:What "Brand" spark plugs did you replace the old ones with? AC DELCO? What did you gap them at? When was the last time the Plug Wires were replaced? Also Re-check your spark plugs to make sure they are seated well > but what ever you do Don't Over tighten them. Did you replace your Distributor cap and Rotor?
I still have the same problem.
One of the plugs is bad I know it. I gapped them all at .060 as per the VECI label.
Well I took it to the dealership today - they're gonna put it on the scope and check the ignition timing. They think it's a dead cylinder and they did recommend to use nothing but ACDelco plugs in it.SoundAdvantage said:I just bought a new set of spark plugs for my 4100 > I alway's buy the A/C Delco plugs > they seem to work the best, it's been 3 years since i have changed them so they are well over due. I replaced the plug wires with 8mm type with the Heavy Duty Boots that go over the plug. I am in Complete agreement with Katshot on replacing the Wires with the plugs> I am pretty sure that i had to change the "Coil" on top of the distributor cap 3 years ago as well. I removed my Cap today and cleaned the terminals inside of it > They had carbon deposits on them so i will have to replace the cap and rotor B-4 Winter! 2dfx I would replace the NGK plugs with whatever the car came Factory with> just my opinion.
We shall see!
1 - 10 of 26 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Cadillac Owners Forum
Cadillac Forums is the perfect place to go to talk about your favorite Caddys including the ATS, CTS, SRX and Escalade.
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
