[2dfx]

Ok, shes stalling basically when I take my foot off the gas. It'll stumble then cut out. This is getting really frustrating and dangerous when I have to resart it every time I take my foot off the gas.

Another thing - the fuel gauge went from 23L to the "Fuel Level Very Low" warning in an instant! Yet when I filled it up, there was 23L in the tank!

Why am I stalling so much? Need help or else im gonna take it to the dealership andf have them work it over!

 

[Katshot]

There are many things that can cause an engine to stall. Do you have any mechanical knowledge? Have you checked anything yet?
First place I would start is looking for a vacuum leak. A substantial vacuum leak will do what you describe.

 

[2dfx]

There are many things that can cause an engine to stall. Do you have any mechanical knowledge? Have you checked anything yet?
First place I would start is looking for a vacuum leak. A substantial vacuum leak will do what you describe.

UPDATE!!!

I just pulled error code P053 which is Distributor Signal Interrupt.

I will check the cap and rotor to make sure there are no problems there but if there isnt, i'm wondering if the distributor itself it going?

 

[Stoneage_Caddy]

id check all the wires that go to the distributor , maybe theres a loose connection somewhere or some corrosion inside the plug in connectors

distributors are expensive id make sure all the wires are ok to and from the distributor , and maybe check the sprak plugs wires too ,

do these distributors have "modules" ?

 

[2dfx]

id check all the wires that go to the distributor , maybe theres a loose connection somewhere or some corrosion inside the plug in connectors

distributors are expensive id make sure all the wires are ok to and from the distributor , and maybe check the sprak plugs wires too ,

do these distributors have "modules" ?

Checked the cap and rotor - connections corroded so I replaced them - still no improvement.

UPDATE!!!

Just got code P031 which is Shorted MAP Sensor Signal .

Bad MAP sensor?

 

[2dfx]

bump

Ya im changing the map sensor tomorrow. The code keeps reoccuring and when its about to cut out the MIL comes on briefly then cuts out. Will provide updates.

 

[2dfx]

UPDATE!!!

I have reason to believe it's the ISC motor. I come to this conclusion because when it's accelerating, there is no problem. It is not a vacuum leak because it doesn't stumble or run poorly when on. Also, it will operate fine if theres no load, ie the transaxle - if I shift it into neutral right away after accelerating, the motor stays alive.

I will replace the ISC motor and set the timing and give you guys an update. That is if you even care at all.

 

[elwesso]

Would we have answered your initial question if we didnt CARE????

Please keep us updated

 

[Stoneage_Caddy]

yah , its not i dont care its just i havent come across the problem yet , if i knew something id for sure tell ya

tho i did get the "fuel very low" message today on startup , it then went back up to 8 gallons after 1 mile , scary nonetheless

 

[2dfx]

Would we have answered your initial question if we didnt CARE????

Please keep us updated

Agreed. I owe you guys an aplolgy. I am definately grateful for all your contributions and support! It is helping me to solve this quandary of sorts and I appreciate all the feedback! Please forgive me!!! :crying:

 

[2dfx]

WTF!!! It just decided to resserect itself this morning!!! I go to start it to move it down the driveway, and roars to life! I was like 'This isnt right' and sure enough I took it out and it didn't stall!!! Does this have anything to do with the battery being disconnected? I assume this is how long it takes to relearn the idle data as this engine does not have an idle learn procedure?

 

[elwesso]

Well..... I must say you lucked out...... Just like on the Qs, many electrical gremlins can be fixed by unplugging the battery for a while!!! Im glad you got it fixed, and I hope it stays that way!!!

It does kinda make sense, and personally I unplug the battery every so often to sort of give it a "fresh start"..... no pun intended in your case!!! :histeric: :histeric:

 

[SoundAdvantage]

So how is your car running now? does it idle ok? How good does it run just above an idle? can you hear or feel it miss at all? did you Manually CLEAR Your codes and then Recheck them?

 

[DeVillish]

i think you should still fix the map sensor, i have a feeling that it might have somthing to do with the stalling problem. My friends Probe had a bad map and his car stalled like crazy, course the ford part didnt help

 

[2dfx]

So how is your car running now? does it idle ok? How good does it run just above an idle? can you hear or feel it miss at all? did you Manually CLEAR Your codes and then Recheck them?

I did manually clear codes, they don't reappear, and she works great....

until this morning when I decided to change the spark plugs.

I gapped them properly and all that, tightened then to the best of my knowledge, but when I go out it rumbles at certain RPM ranges. Does this mean that I forgot to seat a wire? Is this the symptom of a dead cylinder, or is it more?

 

[SoundAdvantage]

What "Brand" spark plugs did you replace the old ones with? AC DELCO? What did you gap them at? When was the last time the Plug Wires were replaced? Also Re-check your spark plugs to make sure they are seated well > but what ever you do Don't Over tighten them. Did you replace your Distributor cap and Rotor?

 

[Katshot]

Unfortunately, your engine (and ALL Caddy motors since the HT4100) are VERY touchy when it comes to the ignition secondary system. This why back in the mid 80's I started changing my methodology when it comes to tune-ups and ignition systems. On the Caddy engines, I replace plugs AND WIRES at the same time. Yes, I know that mkes the job a lot more expensive but it also makes it a lot more thorough and virtually eliminates situations like this. The biggest problem is the wires. They are SO easy to damage just when removing them to do plugs, that you will damage them without even knowing you did.

 

[Night Wolf]

My car came factory with platnium tiped plugs that are supposed to last 100k miles.... I have 80k on my car right now....

....Anyway, I am wondering, the manual says only to use AC Delco (like for everything with the car) but I wanted to get Bosch +4 platnium, becuase I heard they are very good.......and it would be a good idea to change the wires when it is time for the plugs too? Also, do high performance spark plug wires make a differnce? The 4.9 has no after market at all, and I was thinking the real good plugs and high performance wires may improve performance a little....... what do you guys recomend for plugs and wires if I want to get better performance come replacement time?

 

[vanaisa]

MSD wires are good.
But i dont think, that those Bosh +4 spark plugs are so great - IMO its marketing trick - better spark, lasts longer bla bla blah. But its sure - they costs more :lol

 

[2dfx]

What "Brand" spark plugs did you replace the old ones with? AC DELCO? What did you gap them at? When was the last time the Plug Wires were replaced? Also Re-check your spark plugs to make sure they are seated well > but what ever you do Don't Over tighten them. Did you replace your Distributor cap and Rotor?

I replaced the plugs with NGK G-Power Platinum plugs and I also replaced the wires with Niehoff premium wires. I also put dielectric grease in the ends and seated them all properly.

I still have the same problem.

One of the plugs is bad I know it. I gapped them all at .060 as per the VECI label.