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99 Seville
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. New member. I have been doing searches and reading a lot on the site for a couple of days. Tons of great info here! I picked up a very nice 99 Seville with only 46,000 miles that I want to be my daily driver. I drove it around before buying and everything seemed fine. On the highway home the dash said check engine coolant and the temp gauge started rising past the middle mark and kept creeping up. I stopped and added water and it took almost two gallons to top it off. The gauge went back to normal and everything seemed fine until about half a mile from home. BOOM. It actually split the plastic tank of the radiator. After searching here I have come to the realization that I may have a head gasket problem. What do you folks think?

If indeed I do have a HG problem, would it be worth my time to pull the heads, Install the studs and new gaskets without surfacing the head and block? Or maybe resurface just the head? I am trying to do this without removing the engine from the car.

Also, I seem to have an oil leak on the drivers side. Is there a gasket or seal in this area that is prone to leaking?

Thanks for your help.
 

· Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150
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80,404 Posts
You need to study the several sticky posts concerning your problem - on the main Engines; Northstar threads page. Diagnose the apparent cooling problem(s) before hanging your hat on the head gasket(s) thing. Learn about "purge line".

BUT, it sounds like you bought a big problem. If you need to install studs the job is, for all practical purposes, impossible with the engine in the car. Too much interference, machining, block sealing (masking from aluminum chips), access problems. You will not need to resurface anything, and DO NOT use any form of ScotchBrite within 300 feet of the engine. Just clean the surfaces well with gasket remover and lacquer thinner. You'll NEED a real GM service manual set - either eBay, www.helminc.com or www.alldatadiy.com - just too many special procedures and reassembly tricks to wing it - for instance: Torque the crank pulley bolt wrong and you have no oil pressure.

Study the stickys as well as Tech Tips. You can DIY with mechanical expertise, lots of time and tools, lifts and a decent shop. A local Mom&Pop shop could do the stud job with a www.northstarperformance.com stud kit in about 4 days - lots of labor - and about $2500 +/-. You can also insert the block. www.huhnsolutions.com.
 

· Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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89,562 Posts
The '99's seem to have the worst record for HG failures.


If indeed I do have a HG problem, would it be worth my time to pull the heads, Install the studs and new gaskets without surfacing the head and block? Or maybe resurface just the head? I am trying to do this without removing the engine from the car.
There is rarely ever a need to resurface anything. Just replace the HG and repair he threads with inserts or studs.
Doing it in the car will be a real chore. Not much room on that back side. You'll need a 90 degree angle drill for starters, but you'll have to use inserts. No room to get the head over the studs with the motor in the car.
Most guys say it is far easier to remove the drivetrain.
 

· Registered
99 Seville
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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. As I was replacing the radiator this morning and checking out the clearances, especially on the rear cyl. bank as stated above, I made the decision to go ahead with the plan to remove the drivetrain to make the job easier. About 5 or 10 minutes later, a guy pulls in the driveway and wants to talk about the car. After telling him all about the problems and needed repairs, he makes me an offer above what I have in the car. As much as I wanted this car for a daily driver, I sold it. It was a really nice car. Straight body, real nice interior, one of the nicest cars I have ever owned. I feel good about the sale as well. I made a little money and the buyer knows about the problems. I didn't hide anything just to make a sale.
 

· Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150
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80,404 Posts
........... except, in this case, find a younger woman - from 2002,3,4.

SLS - 2002, 3, 4.
STS - 2002, 3. (there are a few "2004" Canadian STS around.)

Last Seville was built in 12/03 - the "model years" ran from about July to June, so a "2002" Seville could have been built from 07/01 to 06/02. Driver's door sticker.
 
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