Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been investigating new brakes for quite some time now, as the EBC pads and rotors I have now, cause the steering wheel to shake rathr violently when I brake at higher speeds. I was taking a look at a few different companies, and stumbled upon a company named Diversified Cryogenics. The use high quality rotors, and cryogenically freeze them to like -300 degrees fahrenheit. Apparently, they have a partnership with Power Slot, who now offers slotted Frozen Rotors. I've heard good things about this method of tempering metal, using extremem cold. I was thinking about getting a st of their front rotors, and a set of raybestos rear rotors (I hear they are pretty good), along with a set of nice ceramic pads. Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever used these rotors before? Here's a link to the companies website http://www.diversifiedcryogenics.com/index.html
 

·
Registered
95 FWB
Joined
·
203 Posts
Just when you think you're gettin to know a thing or two, along comes a company like this. back to the drawing board.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Hello, I have the same issue. The wheels shake initialy when braking from 65 and higher. I was planning on replacing the calipers and rotors. I figure either the calipers are sticking and not applying evenly or I have a warp rotor. Let me know what you find out. The car stops great. 2000 STS
 

·
Registered
'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I knwo what the problem with my rotors are. They still stop pretty well, and the EBC green Stuff pads still provide brutal stopping power when I really need it. The problem is with the rotors though. They have been burned, hot spotted, cracked, and generally beat to hell by these pads. I think that the steel they are made of must not be very good quality. I've never had any set of brakes get this bad, even with the last set of OEM rotors I had. I locked them up quite a few time, even on the highway and they were never this bad.

Take a close look at your rotors and see if you notice anything unusual. Look for any streaks of brown, or darker than usual metal indicating a section where the rotor has literally been burned. Mine has this in a few spot on at least two rotors. These streaks usually coincide with stress cracks, following the path of burnt metal. This is usually a good indicator that the rotrs have suffered serious damage, and can no longer support any heavy braking. My don't just squeal now, they shreak like a banshi every time I stop, at every speed (especially around 5-10mph).

I have to say that while I like the EBC Greenstuff pads, they are simply too powerful for the EBC rotors. That's why I was considering these cryogenically treated rotors, in conjuction with some nice ceramic pads. They are usually quiter, and less likely to wear the rotors as much. Cryogenically tempering the steal helps squeeze the grain of metal closer together, effectively condensing the mass of the rotor into a denser form. They use a similar process on Tank, and Ship cannon barrels to increase their strength. The rear rotors don't take as much abuse, so they would remain non-slotted/drilled. The front however I think could definitely benefit from the slotted rotors. The reviews for the Frozen Rotors on TireRack all seem to be pretty positive, at least alot more positive than those who used the EBC rotors.

I still have about another 3 or 4 weeks left in these brakes before they get too bad to drive on. They have already gotten to the point where they make a metal on metal rubbing, grinding noise when turning, as if the lateral force of the car is enough to cause the pads to rub against the rotors. In other words, they are pretty much on their last leg.

edit: If one or more of your calipers were sticking, you would probably notice the extra drag on the car, especially at higher speeds. Not to mention that while driving on the highway, your brakes would get really hot from all that friction. If you are going to remove them, try cleaning them first to see if that can't fix any problem you might be having. They are self adjusting, using the square cut seal to constantly reposition the piston in accordance with pad and rotor wear. Unless some dirt or something got in there and jammed it up, preventing th piston from retracting, I doubt that they are sticking. I haven;t heard of it happening on these cars, but you never know. If you do pull them, take a quik look at them before you replace them. It's easier and cheaper to clean them yourself, then purchase new ones. Good Luck. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
78 FWB d'Elegance, 92 deVille, 93 Seville, 06 DTS
Joined
·
465 Posts
I have a 93 seville that i drive the hell out of...after warping 2 sets of rotors in 30k miles (i generally drive about 75k miles/year) I went with a set of crossdrilled and slotted rotors front and rear, along with a performance pad...after 50k miles, the setup is still on the car, and shows almost no wear.
the only downside to this setup is it is much more like a track car in the fact that the brakes need to be at temp to get optimum performance...when there cold you can still engage the ABS, but it has a wierd pedal feel...while they are warming up you can feel the slotting on moderatly heay braking, but once they are up to temp, they are on par with the best, and i have yet to overheat or warp them (the stocks i overheated at least every few months)

Again, a lot will depend on your driving style, i would not recommend the performance pads on a daily driver, unless you are ready to deal with the cold side effects, but the rotors are a BIG improvement over stock.
 

·
Registered
'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The pads weren't the problem. I drive the car hard enough to get the pads nice a warm, but the rotors are total crap. They originally came with this black coating on them, that had to be litereally scraped off the pads, before they could be bedded in. I think some of this may have gotten stuck in the pads, and cause the burn marks on them. I just took some pics so you can see exactly how bad they are. There's a close up of the LF rotor and a big picture of the LF rotor, and a close up of the RF rotor which is in the worst shape.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
78 FWB d'Elegance, 92 deVille, 93 Seville, 06 DTS
Joined
·
465 Posts
I went searching for my reciept....raceshopper.com had the best price, SP performance was the brand, and like i said....VERY happy; both quality and price are great...no affiliation except a smile about the size of my rotors when i start getting on it while warm, and like i said I drive the hell out of it (it sees at least 3 heavy stops from somewhere in the 85~100 range a day)
 

·
Registered
78 FWB d'Elegance, 92 deVille, 93 Seville, 06 DTS
Joined
·
465 Posts
to correct myself from earlier, I have just over 70K on these rotors...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
If anyone has any questions about Frozen Rotors please let me know. I Represent the company and personaly dont drive a cady but have hundreds of customers that do. I could direct you to them if you would ever like an honest opinion. We also support Group-Buy programs and if you get a few guys together from this forum to purchase Frozen Rotors I can get you all one hell of a deal.
 

·
Registered
'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Damn, I wish you guys could have chimed in earlier..hehe. Oh well. I went with the OEM Pads and Rotors and and as to be expected...they suck. It won't be long before they are off the car, and kept as a back up set. I'll proabaly get soem new rotors eventually. The Frozen Rotors looked like the best possible solution. Those would defintiely be on the top of the list, when I get new one rotors...again.
 

·
Registered
94 Fleetwood Brougham
Joined
·
7,534 Posts
Do you have rotors for the 94-96 Fleetwoods/Impala SS/Caprice/Roadmaster? Can you do the process safely with the bearing surface as part of the rotor assy?

These rotors are the same as the 70-81 Firebirds/Camaro's only 12in and 94 (maybe 93) to 96 has the ABS ring installed. I think all 77-93 Fleetwoods (RWD) and Broughams use the same 12in rotor. The check would be bearing surface angles in the late 70's early 80's as the inner wheelbearing changed to a larger size and they went from English to Metric.

Thanks FR!


Frozen Rotors said:
If anyone has any questions about Frozen Rotors please let me know. I Represent the company and personaly dont drive a cady but have hundreds of customers that do. I could direct you to them if you would ever like an honest opinion. We also support Group-Buy programs and if you get a few guys together from this forum to purchase Frozen Rotors I can get you all one hell of a deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
I went with powerstoprotors.com as replacements for my 99STS, and have been very happy. I purchased their cross drilled rotors, since I had already warped the originals and a front set of brembo solids. Terrific stopping power, dry and wet.

I'd definitely go with them again. Bonus to me, all vibration at speed was eliminated. I would strongly recommend using a torque wrench when rotating tires, etc. Seems like the rotors bend easily on these cars!

CG 99STS 117K
 

·
Registered
2005 STS-V8
Joined
·
349 Posts
I'm bumping this thread because I'm curious if anyone has tried Frozen Rotors and what were the results? Are they worth the the price?

For a 94 Eldorado the price for the front end is $114 each side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
(I posted this yesterday here, but I'll copy it below)

Deep-cryo works.

Bought a full set of drilled/slotted rotors, along with Pads are Performance Friction "Carbon Metallic Z-rated" pads (good street compromise... fine when cold, but "WOW" when warmed up... and ZERO fade when HOT, very low brake dust).

Had it ALL (pads too!) deep-cryo treated myself, locally, from a company who does a lot of metallurgy research for large corporations, as well as treatment services for the public, city/state governments (police vehicles), and other companies... many taxi companies do their fleets.

Braking is much, MUCH more consistent, the fading I used to experience was GONE... the repeated warping after 12-18 months on new rotors was GONE. No cracking at cross-drilled holes (holes were chamfered to begin with)

Treating the pads is essential while you're at it... gives them a much longer life, in spite of the extra wear from the rotor slots/holes.

And, yes, you CAN get decent D/S rotors on eBay, find the ones that are double-ground on both surfaces, this insures the rotors are really flat/parallel... then get the best warranty... at least 6-12 months. Plating (anodizing, whether clear or gold) is useful, even though it won't penetrate deep inside the vanes. Some forms of plating work better than others.

You can NOT cryo-treat used rotors though... only when fresh.

I talked with the engineer there for a while, he explained it all and showed me the cross-sectioned metal samples... it's amazing what actually transpires at the molecular level when you take these castings to -300 degrees for several hours. The molecules actually DO move in the process, and align themselves, making for a much better material in wear-resistance, as well as stress-relieved Typically the life expectancy can increase 200-400%, under direct one-on-one comparisons... same vehicle, same time.

To complete the treatment, they must also take them UP to +300 degrees or more for a "soak" after they deep-freeze them.

It's a VERY slow, gradual process... each transition must be at a very controlled rate, lest you cause stress on the material.


Total cost was much less than the parts cost, and get well over twice the life... easy decision.

My only concern was buying "pre-treated" parts... there is NO way to tell if they really were treated, or treated properly. Have it done yourself, do research, find a reputable shop. Many will ship it off to a large treatment company, like the one I used... they do many parts for other resellers.

It's a very interesting science to read about... many military parts get deep-cryo-treated.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top