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1998 Deville
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129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is why I ask , I am being told not to drill out rivets to remove ball joint i agree I really don't want to go that route. On my all data .com they say to drill out rivets and when I look on Google for the b,j, thise is what I fi d see pic I am perplexed 馃槚 I am thanks
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92 Fleetwood 2dr cpe - FWD, 96 Seville SLS, 02 Seville
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1,173 Posts
Yes, have replaced ball joints inn riveted gm control arms. It's a PITA.

You'll need a grinder to cut the rivet top off and then you can punch the rest off. You'll need a real steady hand and lots of time.

Since time is money, you should calculate your ROI on the option of getting a new control arm with new ball joint and bushings.

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2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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75,429 Posts
I've done 2 Sevilles - same suspension for all intents and purposes - but used new control arms instead of the single ball joints.

BUT there is nothing wrong with bolted ball joints - the Grade 8 bolts are as strong as or stronger than the rivets they replace. As posted, it's the labor time that's the killer.

You might also note that the AC Delco replacement ball joint for your Deville is a bolted unit.

Grade 5 bolt - Grade 8 bolt. Google it.
 

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2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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75,429 Posts
What is the number on those bolt heads ? If it's 12.9 then they're almost aircraft quality stuff. (Metric bolts use a different hardness code than SAE)
 

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95 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 85 Eldorado
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36 Posts
Just for what it's worth:

The points made about labor vs cost of buying a new control arm are valid, BUT...

In some cases, replacement control arms may be of lesser quality than the original OEM part. This definitely varies by platform, but some folks would argue that they prefer to replace bushings and ball joints and reuse the original steel.

In worst case scenarios, I have seen cheap aftermarket parts rust out in a matter of months simply due to very low quality metal.
 

1998 Deville
Joined
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good morning and thanks for input. I was actually thinking of replacing con arm butt, too remove con arm the main bolt will run into moter mount moter mount is in the way of getting out the bolt so I opted to remove pita rivets iv managed to get the 3 rivets out of driver side ( nightmare 馃槼) to make matters worse the rivets are rounded like half a globe making finding the center punch difficult see pic
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