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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, All there.
struggling to disassemble fuse & relay Block (black box left side of accumulator battery). the task is to take out Harness Plate and check conductivity of pins for fan relays mainly. presently control signal between ECU and Relays is getting lost somewhere...
apart from continuty of certain circuits I will use free space to replace DRL in a left Head Light assembly.

harness plate is secured by 6 plastic clips. those can be managed , however I could lift harness plate on about 0.5 inch only. the 3 bolts there are securing 3 major connectors underneaf. Bolts I released as well however I afraid to pull harness plate up any more. I feel I will lift car very soon.
I can't really understand what exactly keeps Harness plate on its place (as a rubber tie).
drawings show 6 clips and 3 bolts to be released and harness plate can be lifted up...

any practical experience anywhere in Universe ? please share if you did it.

photo shows precisely harness plate with relays and fuses which I need to lift up, disconnect from wirings, to turn upside down and review pins continuity.
SRX 2014 Modified Fans control.jpg
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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712 Posts
maybe hidden screws under the relays?
 

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2014 SRX Lux
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2 hands and a couple good tugs. Did not need to pry with any tools. Fully reseating the box is crucial. As I recall mine was not fully seated after reinstallation. Nothing worked. No power. Had to push down pretty hard to get it set. Then snug up the bolts again.
 

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2014 SRX Premi
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59 Posts
2 hands and a couple good tugs. Did not need to pry with any tools. Fully reseating the box is crucial. As I recall mine was not fully seated after reinstallation. Nothing worked. No power. Had to push down pretty hard to get it set. Then snug up the bolts again.
Got it!
Pull up until it feels like you'll break something and then pull it up again!
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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712 Posts
can you post up pics from under the box and body? i have been wondering about mystery connections down there for some time
 

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2014 SRX Premi
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2 hands and a couple good tugs. Did not need to pry with any tools. Fully reseating the box is crucial. As I recall mine was not fully seated after reinstallation. Nothing worked. No power. Had to push down pretty hard to get it set. Then snug up the bolts again.
Any other cables to disconnect or just the screws and clips.
In this picture there is a cable connected to the top half after separation.
599851
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Let's see what happens with AndreyCaddi...
I will only proceed with Harness Plate lifting/ removal if I decide to reach Headlight from motor space ... otherwise front bumper has to be shifted away to get access to Front distance radar (as sample for search on salvage yard) and remove Headlights to get access to DRL..

today have run Bi-Directional scanner for Manual control of all cooling FAN's speeds. everything can be ON and OFF. that means Harness plate, relays, all slots, all connectors and all control wirings between ECU, HVAC Module and Harness plate are OK.
that was a good news for me as I do not need to touch Harness Plate and all relays so far. Hardware works fine, Brains are out of Universe... :p
 

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2014 SRX Premi
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I will only proceed with Harness Plate lifting/ removal if I decide to reach Headlight from motor space ... otherwise front bumper has to be shifted away to get access to Front distance radar (as sample for search on salvage yard) and remove Headlights to get access to DRL..

today have run Bi-Directional scanner for Manual control of all cooling FAN's speeds. everything can be ON and OFF. that means Harness plate, relays, all slots, all connectors and all control wirings between ECU, HVAC Module and Harness plate are OK.
that was a good news for me as I do not need to touch Harness Plate and all relays so far. Hardware works fine, Brains are out of Universe... :p
I wanted to try this weekend, mother nature is not cooperating.🌧🌦
I think you can get DRL out with split box.
Maybe next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my adventures with control circuits and Cooling Fan speeds' relay are continued.
But good news is that area of possible malfunction is getting narrowed almost daily !

History: I had an issues with no running cooling Fan while engine is cold and never activated medium and high speed fan once engine is warm.
from yesterday new surprise accidentally came.
SERVICE VEHICLE SOON.
my favorite Cadillac kidding style... No Check Engine codes at all (at least Bluedriver doesn't see it...).
Service Vehicle soon.jpg


SERVICE VEHICLE SOON can't be erased unless real physicals reason is alive.
use of more advanced scanner shows Control circuit relay 1 P0480 .
Cooling Fan disgnostic toruble code.jpg


the common HVAC components performance is as next:
HVAC performance.jpg


What is good here ?
My medium speed fan got (finally!) activated and simultaneously control circuit of Fan #1 got failure.
The challenge is that Numbering of Fans is different in Scanner, in drawings and in scheme on Fuse block cover ... :p

All relays working fine and have good circuits if extracted from harness Plate and tested independently (multimeter and 12V external control voltage supply)

Car is alarming SERVICE VEHICLE SOON even if relays are out of Harness Plate.

I guess the area of investigation came closer to Harness Plate (again!) and I have no other option apart from taking it out and verifying of all visible pins, etc. Most probably 2 extra hidden relays would be seen somewhere underneaf... I keep hopes..

the bad news is that spare Harness Plate is not available here at all (no spare within GMC dealers).

but will see once autopsy is processed.
 

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2014 SRX Premi
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Did the DRL's today - what a difference! New light makes old light look like a turn signal.
600355
600356


Split fuse box was easy too!
If it feels stuck when lifting, you may need to loosen the bolts more, they are longer than you think..
Also, I had to push one of the connecting blocks down to free it from the top.
600357


Snap the connecting blocks back into the bottom section to align before replacing top.
Make sure all the bolts are tight. I think the bolts lift the blocks up to make a secure connection.

Car asked me to roll the window up and down a few times, other than that, no worries.
You can probably change the turn signal too, even I could access it with my big hands! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did the DRL's today - what a difference! New light makes old light look like a turn signal.


Split fuse box was easy too!
If it feels stuck when lifting, you may need to loosen the bolts more, they are longer than you think..
Also, I had to push one of the connecting blocks down to free it from the top.


Snap the connecting blocks back into the bottom section to align before replacing top.
Make sure all the bolts are tight. I think the bolts lift the blocks up to make a secure connection.

Car asked me to roll the window up and down a few times, other than that, no worries.
You can probably change the turn signal too, even I could access it with my big hands! :)
great thanks .
have utilized Mothership's good comments and made this Unit disassembled and assembled back super smooth.
Yes, sockets' holding bolts are much longer than expected.
Yes, lifting of harness plate is simple once bolts are really released (just 6 six plastic holding clips to be off simultaneously almost)
Yes, installation back is going within 20 seconds is electric sockets (multipin slots) are preliminary aligned well in their nest...

the good news is that I finally find out the reason of my cooling Fan and AC consequential troubles!!! the Harness plate itself is not a molded type assembly, it can be disassembled... the printed circuit board is inside this magic assembly has extra hidden 6-9 small relays... and printed circuit board I found burnt and damaged... shall give more details in a "AC weak at Idle" theme.

the bad news is that I could not pull out DRL socket from headlight assembly... I could not see anything inside apart from vertical plastic Plate. My gynecologist's skills are not developed well to get an idea what is the DRL lock type there. tried to review few YouTube inputs and I assume the socket is turnable...

any idea of DRL holding socket removal tactics ? Pull out simply ? turn and pull out ?
great many thanks in advance
 

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2014 SRX Premi
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great thanks .
have utilized Mothership's good comments and made this Unit disassembled and assembled back super smooth.
Yes, sockets' holding bolts are much longer than expected.
Yes, lifting of harness plate is simple once bolts are really released (just 6 six plastic holding clips to be off simultaneously almost)
Yes, installation back is going within 20 seconds is electric sockets (multipin slots) are preliminary aligned well in their nest...

the good news is that I finally find out the reason of my cooling Fan and AC consequential troubles!!! the Harness plate itself is not a molded type assembly, it can be disassembled... the printed circuit board is inside this magic assembly has extra hidden 6-9 small relays... and printed circuit board I found burnt and damaged... shall give more details in a "AC weak at Idle" theme.

the bad news is that I could not pull out DRL socket from headlight assembly... I could not see anything inside apart from vertical plastic Plate. My gynecologist's skills are not developed well to get an idea what is the DRL lock type there. tried to review few YouTube inputs and I assume the socket is turnable...

any idea of DRL holding socket removal tactics ? Pull out simply ? turn and pull out ?
great many thanks in advance
Best tool ever for undoing the clips! Plus I hate using metal tools on plastic.
The right angle and beveled edge makes it easy to push down and open the clips.
600800
600802


Regarding removing the DRL.
There is a cover on the DRL bucket that needs to be removed, yet turn signal does not have one. Anyone know why?

There is a large vertical tab you can feel inside, turn counterclockwise until it stops. 1/4 turn at most
This thing is in there pretty tight, but it will release and the bulb should come out.
The passengers side is easier if you want to get experience.

A WORD OF CAUTION! ⚠⚠⚠
MAKE SURE THE NEW BULB IS FULLY SEATED TIGHTLY!
IF NOT, IT CAN FALL INTO THE HEADLIGHT.

I have one of these as I am always dropping tools in the bay.
So no issue retrieving my bulb. 💡
600804

This is one of those tools you don't know you need, until you need it!:)
 

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Could you tell us a bit more about those tools, like where to get them? I'm not even sure what that 2nd one is. Has the 3 claws that extend when you push on it? I have something similar I think, but it would be tough to snag a light bulb with it.
 

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Could you tell us a bit more about those tools, like where to get them? I'm not even sure what that 2nd one is. Has the 3 claws that extend when you push on it? I have something similar I think, but it would be tough to snag a light bulb with it.
Sure.
The first is from a body parts tool kit found on Amazon https://smile.amazon.com/Tresalto-A...&keywords=body+tool+kit&qid=1623615555&sr=8-5
Not sure if this is the one I have but close enough.

You are correct about the second item. It is one of those grabbing tool with three prongs.
Bought this a while ago on Amazon as well.
I used it to extract this led that fell inside.
600871

It was a little tricky but my grabber is magnetic so that helped.

Only other alternative is to take the bumper off, remove headlight and try to shake it out! :oops:
 
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