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Harmonic balancer question

12K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  AAIIIC 
#1 ·
I have some squealing coming from my balancer. Checked the bolt and it was a little loose. Going to put a torque wrench on it today. I know this is a one time use bolt but does anyone feel it is safe to just torque this down again or should I get a new bolt from the dealer? Maybe just get an ARP reusable bolt? I want to get an aftermarket balancer but now is not a good time. Local parts store has a standard replacement one for $91. My fear is stripping the crank threads by torquing the factory bolt that is in it now. It does have a slight wobble to it but not any more than the usual on any engine.
 
#5 ·
My fear is stripping the crank threads by torquing the factory bolt that is in it now.
The only time I've heard of anyone having trouble with the threads is during the install of a new balancer, when the bolt is only partially engaging the threads in the crank snout. With your bolt fully installed (and thus the threads full engaged), there shouldn't be any concern about re-torqueing it to the appropriate spec.
 
#6 ·
I have the new balancer. Now I have to wait on a new bolt from the dealer. I'm going to torque the currently installed bolt to spec and see what happens. My concern is how long has it been loose and are there any damaged threads on the bolt that is currently installed. It just started squealing a few days ago. Replaced the idler pulley but that wasn't it. I would've bet money on it too!
 
#7 ·
You may want to read this thread: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...l/693466-possible-stripped-crank-threads.html

I suggest you avoid the temptation to use an old bolt to install the new harmonic balancer. The Harmonic Balancer is an interference fit onto the crank and therefore takes a lot of force to get it to home position.. I bought a piece of 16mmx2.0 all thread and some matching nuts, then heated the new balancer in boiling water to expand the bore of the balancer. The install is easier that way and takes less force. There is a dimension between the face of the crank and the face of the pulley you have to get so that it is installed to the proper location. You can buy an installer tool that has a long heat treated threaded rod for $100 instead of using the all thread rod. The bolts are torque to yield bolts and need to be replaced every time according to the service manual, Though I have never heard of a bolt breaking, but many folks have had them come loose and this lets the harmonic balancer leave its home position and cause damage to innocent components. After all, the balancer gets thoroughly heat soaked when the engine is at temp and everything grows.
 
#12 ·
The thread he is referencing was mine, the possible strip was not due to me using the original crank bolt to seat the balancer, it was by using the "highly recommended everywhere" balancer re-installation tool sold by Colorado Speed.

But at the end of the day everything turned out okay, from start to finish the repair only took a few hours, the Powerbond 25% UD, with Gatorbacks and ARP bolt. stopped all wobbling, squeaks and car feels like it drives much better, I had a really bad wobble. And I also have the 07 CTSV.

After searching on many many forums, I have the full parts list you would need to install a new balancer, from bolt to belt.

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The thread he is referencing was mine, the possible strip was not due to me using the original crank bolt to seat the balancer, it was by using the "highly recommended everywhere" balancer re-installation tool sold by Colorado Speed.

But at the end of the day everything turned out okay, from start to finish the repair only took a few hours, the Powerbond 25% UD, with Gatorbacks and ARP bolt. stopped all wobbling, squeaks and car feels like it drives much better, I had a really bad wobble. And I also have the 07 CTSV.

After searching on many many forums, I have the full parts list you would need to install a new balancer, from bolt to belt.

Oh and at the end of the day...the crank was not stripped...
 
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#13 · (Edited)
I think my slipped also, based on the marks doesn’t look like it is 140 degrees from the 37lbs torque mark. It is making a loud squealing noise. It started making the noise after I ran it into some high rpms. The dealer replaced the balancer about 8 months ago...wondering if I should tighten it or put the back together and let them fix it under warranty (12 months/12,000 miles). I thought the noise was my ac tensioner, but now I am thinking it the harmonic balancer, thoughts?
Auto part Circle Wheel


I checked the torque on the bolt, it was less than 10lbs. So I decided to get a new bolt and tighten it to spec myself and put it all back together. Squealing is gone and seems to be idling smoother. I guess if you want something done right you gotta do it yourself.

Remember, this bolt must be replaced if it becomes loose or the damper is removed, it is a torque to yield design bolt.
 
#14 ·
I'm in the process of replacing the oil pump on my LQ9, and I have a couple of questions about reinstalling the harmonic balancer:

The service manual asks for a couple of specialized guides and protectors to reinstall the balancer. Can I get away with just one of the threaded rod style installation tools?

I'm trying to get ready to deploy again in a couple of weeks, so any help would be very much appreciated. I want my wife to at least be able to start the vehicle every couple of weeks while I'm gone. :)
 
#15 ·
I think the mast majority of us do not do it as the factory wants you to do it, as we don't have the fancy tools. I think I just put some white lithium on the front main seal, to ensure the "snout" of the balancer would slide through without catching it, and called it good.
 
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