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07 CTS-V
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351 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have some squealing coming from my balancer. Checked the bolt and it was a little loose. Going to put a torque wrench on it today. I know this is a one time use bolt but does anyone feel it is safe to just torque this down again or should I get a new bolt from the dealer? Maybe just get an ARP reusable bolt? I want to get an aftermarket balancer but now is not a good time. Local parts store has a standard replacement one for $91. My fear is stripping the crank threads by torquing the factory bolt that is in it now. It does have a slight wobble to it but not any more than the usual on any engine.
 

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17 xt5 & Blk 05 cts-v
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Just get a new bolt. They are not that expensive. Do the standard replacement also. Why take the chance of it coming out. I would only re torque it if i had to.
 

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2005 CTS-V
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5 Posts
I would re torque it only so your car isn't down while you wait to get the new bolt. But I would replace the bolt.
 

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07 CTS-V
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351 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yea, I have tons of other vehicles to drive so that's not an issue. Oreilly has one on the shelf so I'm going to get it now. New balancer, new bolt, new belts....done. Thanks guys.
 

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'05 CTS-V
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8,299 Posts
My fear is stripping the crank threads by torquing the factory bolt that is in it now.
The only time I've heard of anyone having trouble with the threads is during the install of a new balancer, when the bolt is only partially engaging the threads in the crank snout. With your bolt fully installed (and thus the threads full engaged), there shouldn't be any concern about re-torqueing it to the appropriate spec.
 

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07 CTS-V
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351 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have the new balancer. Now I have to wait on a new bolt from the dealer. I'm going to torque the currently installed bolt to spec and see what happens. My concern is how long has it been loose and are there any damaged threads on the bolt that is currently installed. It just started squealing a few days ago. Replaced the idler pulley but that wasn't it. I would've bet money on it too!
 

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2007 Thunder Gray CTS-V
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42 Posts
You may want to read this thread: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/693466-possible-stripped-crank-threads.html

I suggest you avoid the temptation to use an old bolt to install the new harmonic balancer. The Harmonic Balancer is an interference fit onto the crank and therefore takes a lot of force to get it to home position.. I bought a piece of 16mmx2.0 all thread and some matching nuts, then heated the new balancer in boiling water to expand the bore of the balancer. The install is easier that way and takes less force. There is a dimension between the face of the crank and the face of the pulley you have to get so that it is installed to the proper location. You can buy an installer tool that has a long heat treated threaded rod for $100 instead of using the all thread rod. The bolts are torque to yield bolts and need to be replaced every time according to the service manual, Though I have never heard of a bolt breaking, but many folks have had them come loose and this lets the harmonic balancer leave its home position and cause damage to innocent components. After all, the balancer gets thoroughly heat soaked when the engine is at temp and everything grows.
 

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07 CTS-V
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351 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Installed new balancer, removal with my puller was easy. Installed with a friends balancer installer. Squeal is gone. No wobbling from new balancer. New belts, new coolant. Easy job.
 

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Installed new balancer, removal with my puller was easy. Installed with a friends balancer installer. Squeal is gone. No wobbling from new balancer. New belts, new coolant. Easy job.
I'm about to do the same thing--want to tell me how you did it? Doesn't the radiator have to come out?
 

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2005 CTS-V
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8,363 Posts
If you ever add a Maggie, you will need a keyed crank/harmonic balancer. Consider doing that with the new harmonic balancer install.
 

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07 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #11
Sure....take the plastic cover off of the top of the radiator/grill. They are just push/pull pins. Drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the bottom of the radiator. Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator and the engine. Gives you a little more room with it removed completely. Under the plastic cover there are 4 bolts which hold the brackets that hold the radiator in place. Remove all 4 bolts. This will allow you to move the radiator rearward enough to remove the 4 bolts that hold the a/c condenser onto the radiator. The condenser does not have to be removed; just the radiator. The fans can stay attached to the radiator as you remove it. However, you do need to disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on either side of the fans. Carefully move the condenser away from the radiator as you lift the radiator out of the car. Using a socket and ratchet apply clockwise pressure to the serpentine belt tensioner to release tension on the belt enough to remove it. Make sure the e-brake is on and put the car in 4th gear. Maybe even chock it. Mine was wanting to move around a fair amount. Using a breaker bar and socket remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) bolt. Using a 3 arm puller carefully remove the balancer. Clean the crank with some emery cloth, etc. You may find a little oil around the crankshaft area. Clean the area well. Place the new balancer on the crank. Using a balancer installer press the new balancer onto the crank. Remove the balancer installer. Using the OLD crank pulley bolt tighten to 240 ft lbs. Remove the old bolt. Install the new bolt. Torque to 37 ft lbs. Mark the balancer and the bolt. Now tighten until the bolt rotates 140 degrees. Make sure at this point that you replace your a/c belt if you desire. Carefully install the radiator. Attach the condenser to the radiator. Install the brackets that hold the radiator in at the top. Connect the 2 fan electrical connectors. Install a new serpentine belt if desired. Install the plastic cover over the radiator/grill. Reattach the lower radiator hose. Install the upper radiator hose. Refill the coolant recovery tank. It will empty itself as the system fills up and the air slowly escapes. While you do this recheck everything you can see or touch that was removed. Make sure no tools, etc. are left anywhere. Refill the coolant tank again. Ok, time to start it. Make sure the belt is riding on all pulleys correctly. Watch the coolant tank to keep it full. Add accordingly. Make sure the wires for the fans do not touch the fan blades themselves. One of mine did, causing a weird noise I couldn't figure out until i looked closer. Make sure there are no leaks under the car. I would recheck coolant level after a few miles of driving. I would also take a general look around the area where the work was done just to be sure all is looking well. I plan on checking the torque on the crank bolt after about 100 miles just to be safe. This really is an easy job. Just make sure you have a NEW bolt, coolant, belts, puller, installer.....and cold beverage of your choice.

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If you ever add a Maggie, you will need a keyed crank/harmonic balancer. Consider doing that with the new harmonic balancer install.
I agree. Finding a Maggie/E-Force that is affordable is another thing entirely. lol
 

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2010 Escalade, 2012 CTS-V
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28 Posts
The thread he is referencing was mine, the possible strip was not due to me using the original crank bolt to seat the balancer, it was by using the "highly recommended everywhere" balancer re-installation tool sold by Colorado Speed.

But at the end of the day everything turned out okay, from start to finish the repair only took a few hours, the Powerbond 25% UD, with Gatorbacks and ARP bolt. stopped all wobbling, squeaks and car feels like it drives much better, I had a really bad wobble. And I also have the 07 CTSV.

After searching on many many forums, I have the full parts list you would need to install a new balancer, from bolt to belt.

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You may want to read this thread: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/693466-possible-stripped-crank-threads.html

I suggest you avoid the temptation to use an old bolt to install the new harmonic balancer. The Harmonic Balancer is an interference fit onto the crank and therefore takes a lot of force to get it to home position.. I bought a piece of 16mmx2.0 all thread and some matching nuts, then heated the new balancer in boiling water to expand the bore of the balancer. The install is easier that way and takes less force. There is a dimension between the face of the crank and the face of the pulley you have to get so that it is installed to the proper location. You can buy an installer tool that has a long heat treated threaded rod for $100 instead of using the all thread rod. The bolts are torque to yield bolts and need to be replaced every time according to the service manual, Though I have never heard of a bolt breaking, but many folks have had them come loose and this lets the harmonic balancer leave its home position and cause damage to innocent components. After all, the balancer gets thoroughly heat soaked when the engine is at temp and everything grows.

The thread he is referencing was mine, the possible strip was not due to me using the original crank bolt to seat the balancer, it was by using the "highly recommended everywhere" balancer re-installation tool sold by Colorado Speed.

But at the end of the day everything turned out okay, from start to finish the repair only took a few hours, the Powerbond 25% UD, with Gatorbacks and ARP bolt. stopped all wobbling, squeaks and car feels like it drives much better, I had a really bad wobble. And I also have the 07 CTSV.

After searching on many many forums, I have the full parts list you would need to install a new balancer, from bolt to belt.

Oh and at the end of the day...the crank was not stripped...
 

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CTS-V
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5 Posts
I think my slipped also, based on the marks doesn’t look like it is 140 degrees from the 37lbs torque mark. It is making a loud squealing noise. It started making the noise after I ran it into some high rpms. The dealer replaced the balancer about 8 months ago...wondering if I should tighten it or put the back together and let them fix it under warranty (12 months/12,000 miles). I thought the noise was my ac tensioner, but now I am thinking it the harmonic balancer, thoughts?
20171123_103212.jpg

I checked the torque on the bolt, it was less than 10lbs. So I decided to get a new bolt and tighten it to spec myself and put it all back together. Squealing is gone and seems to be idling smoother. I guess if you want something done right you gotta do it yourself.

Remember, this bolt must be replaced if it becomes loose or the damper is removed, it is a torque to yield design bolt.
 

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I'm in the process of replacing the oil pump on my LQ9, and I have a couple of questions about reinstalling the harmonic balancer:

The service manual asks for a couple of specialized guides and protectors to reinstall the balancer. Can I get away with just one of the threaded rod style installation tools?

I'm trying to get ready to deploy again in a couple of weeks, so any help would be very much appreciated. I want my wife to at least be able to start the vehicle every couple of weeks while I'm gone. :)
 

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'05 CTS-V
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8,299 Posts
I think the mast majority of us do not do it as the factory wants you to do it, as we don't have the fancy tools. I think I just put some white lithium on the front main seal, to ensure the "snout" of the balancer would slide through without catching it, and called it good.
 
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