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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #1
:bouncy: This is a log for an upgrade of front brakes on a Cadillac Catera (97-01). CAUTION! Brakes may not fit on the 97-99model. The test vehicle is a 2001 Catera Sport and the brakes on it may or may not be the same as yours so please do your homework before hand.
:worship:
Vehicle Brand: CADILLAC
Vehicle Model: CATERA (SPORT)
Brakes Information:
Front: 296mm diameter single piston self adjusting ventilated disc brakes

Rear: 286mm diameter twin piston self adjusting vented disc brakes


Donor Vehicle: 2004 PONTIAC GTO
Front Calipers: Twin Piston Alum.

Parts used:
04 Front Calipers:
04 Front Brake Pads Ceramic.

Hoses and attachments were included but not used.
OEM Hose from the catera was attached to OEM GTO caliper.

Calipers Purchased:


04 vs 05-06 GTO Brakes


06 Front Brakes (DO NOT USE) They wont fit!

06 Rear Brakes; MIGHT FIT?! but it will be pointless to change since the Catera has Twin Piston Opposing Alum Calipers in the rear.


I will update this asap with pictures.
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #2
Here is the brake Calipers and Brackets Painted. The hoses are not being reused so I didn't bother to protect them from the paint over spray.






GTO Brake Pads 50% life left.
 

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78 Deville 10 CTS-V Sedan M6 10 SRX Turbo Premium
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So are you going to switch to GTO wheels? I believe the goats are 5-120 and the catera is 5-110
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #4
So are you going to switch to GTO wheels? I believe the goats are 5-120 and the catera is 5-110
Nope just doing the front brake swap and then possibly getting some slotted rotors on all 4s but I am keeping my sport wheels.
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #5
The moment of truth boys and girls... tada:) ... they fit :worship: GTO

I just got done driving the car and so far I can say I noticed a bit more grip and more of a solid feel when braking... I havent seen if they shortened the stopping distance but considering that the pads are twise as long and just a tad bit narrower these should work a ton better. OK enough talk here are the pictures.

Install went super smooth I had to use the GTO hoses because they are slightly longer and fit the caliper just right. The fiting at the body is ok all you have to do is disconect the OEM hose and connect the new one pretty easy.
Make sure you get new Brake Pads and Possibly new Rotors.

OEM Brakes:






NEW GTO Brakes:






 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #8
Things you will need:

GTO Calipers, Brackets, Hoses, Pads, some Grease, Brake Fluid, new Brass O Rings for the Bonjo fittings;
10,12,13,14, 17, 18, 19mm Wrenches and or sockets;
2-3hrs of your personal time and then some elbow grease... LOL...
Everything bolts on super easy no need to modify anything in order to fit all the parts... the only thing you will need to do is cut the original mounting bracket attached to the GTO hose and then once thats out of the way just slide it in the OEM hole and attach the hose on to it... then you can put the retaining clip back on and it all snaps nicely in place...

Now one thing you will loose is the sensor for the worn brake pads... since the GTO ones didn't have it you can disconnect the wires and remove them but keep them in case you ever want to go back to stock.

While at it I also changed my tie rod ends and that was real easy...

IF YOU GUYS HAVE QUESTIONS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ASK.
 

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2001 catera sport...w/ some minor customizations
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FANTASTIC WORK! THX FOR SHARING.

you need some rims with bigger openings to feature those bad-ass GOAT calipers more!

something like these 18X8 TSW Apex:
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #10
FANTASTIC WORK! THX FOR SHARING.

you need some rims with bigger openings to feature those bad-ass GOAT calipers more!

something like these 18X8 TSW Apex:

Man I wish I can get some bigger wheels but after long thinking I decided to keep the car authentic because Sports are rare and wanted cars so you see where I am going with them... BTW teh calipers can be seen through two of the five openings at any one time so they are quit emassive... I've had people approach me at the gas station and asking about it... and ofcourse when I told them about the upgraded brakes they were like :eek: :worship:

I like em a lot so far but I think I will upgrade to the Corvette C5 Brake pads since they have a much bigger pad...
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #11
BTW I Warned the guys from the GTO forums and told them that to pack their old 04 GTO brakes because I figured a lot of other people will be willing to do the brake upgrade...
 

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Platinum 2001 Cadillac Catera Sport
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BTW I Warned the guys from the GTO forums and told them that to pack their old 04 GTO brakes because I figured a lot of other people will be willing to do the brake upgrade...
I hope they don't jack the asking price because of that.
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well I didn't quite tell them that people will be going crazy for those but I replied to one of the guys that was offering me a set that someone else might be interested... by someone else I meant the guys around here... I sure as hell hope they dont jack up the price on these things because that would suck...
 

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Great innovative thinking CateraMV6.
they look awesome, and I am sure do a lot better job than the stock brakes - i am not really a big fan of the stock brakes.

Quick question for you: when you changed the Tie-rd ends, did you change the whole unit, i.e. the sleeves, as well as the inner tie-rod ends?
i brought my car to the Dealership today, with the Tie-rod ends purchased online, they said that they cannot just replace the tie-rod ends, they have to replace the sleeves as well as the inner tie-rod ends.
is that true? because i'll change the tie-rod ends myself, if it's that easy to change.
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #15
Great innovative thinking CateraMV6.
they look awesome, and I am sure do a lot better job than the stock brakes - i am not really a big fan of the stock brakes.

Quick question for you: when you changed the Tie-rd ends, did you change the whole unit, i.e. the sleeves, as well as the inner tie-rod ends?
i brought my car to the Dealership today, with the Tie-rod ends purchased online, they said that they cannot just replace the tie-rod ends, they have to replace the sleeves as well as the inner tie-rod ends.
is that true? because i'll change the tie-rod ends myself, if it's that easy to change.
Nope if your inners are ok you dont have to change them just unbolt the middle piece and unscrew the outer tie rod end... and reverse with the new one..

BTW lift the car up and grab the wheel with your hands on 3 and 9 oclock and pull back and forth and you will feel if the tie rods are bad... then you can have someone stick their head under and watch the ball joints the one that is bad will move...

If everything is tight and there is no play dont bother changing them...

What ever you do dont take it to the stealership cuz they will charge you for laber and then they will force you to do alignment whcih can worsen things because apparently they dont know how to fix our cars... go figure.
 

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Nope if your inners are ok you dont have to change them just unbolt the middle piece and unscrew the outer tie rod end... and reverse with the new one..

BTW lift the car up and grab the wheel with your hands on 3 and 9 oclock and pull back and forth and you will feel if the tie rods are bad... then you can have someone stick their head under and watch the ball joints the one that is bad will move...

If everything is tight and there is no play dont bother changing them...

What ever you do dont take it to the stealership cuz they will charge you for laber and then they will force you to do alignment whcih can worsen things because apparently they dont know how to fix our cars... go figure.
yeah, you're right. they said it will be 4 hours labor, plus the alignment and the remaining parts.
i just had them do the idler arm, which they finished in 10 mins but charged me $136.
see, the reason why i've been thinking it is the outer tie-rod ends that are bad is because the steering wheel gets a violent shake in between the speed of 43.5mph and 49.7mph. right after i pass 50mph, the shake stops. or if i drop the speed to lower than 43.5 mph, the shake would also stop.
the car vibrates at high speeds, but not as violently as the aforementioned speeds.
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #17
yeah, you're right. they said it will be 4 hours labor, plus the alignment and the remaining parts.
i just had them do the idler arm, which they finished in 10 mins but charged me $136.
see, the reason why i've been thinking it is the outer tie-rod ends that are bad is because the steering wheel gets a violent shake in between the speed of 43.5mph and 49.7mph. right after i pass 50mph, the shake stops. or if i drop the speed to lower than 43.5 mph, the shake would also stop.
the car vibrates at high speeds, but not as violently as the aforementioned speeds.
I had similar vibrations but mine was from the tires which were out of shape... new tires fixed everything...

I can feel some sort of looseness in the steering and actual tapping when I go over bumps thats why I changed the outer tie rod end now it feels stiff as new...
 

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Opel Omega
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Discussion Starter #18
Some of the latest photos. Also now that the brakes have broken in... the car has changed entirely, coming to a dead stop is no longer a challenge... I love them. :worship: GTO Brakes
The other day they got me out of a 4 car pile up... the trafic up ahead all the sudden stopped and the 4 cars in front of me nailed each other , i managed to stop 4 feet from the other guys bumper all thanks to these monsters..



 

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I had similar vibrations but mine was from the tires which were out of shape... new tires fixed everything...

I can feel some sort of looseness in the steering and actual tapping when I go over bumps thats why I changed the outer tie rod end now it feels stiff as new...
Thanks Bro.
You were right, changing the Tie Rod ends was a joke. The only complication that I ran into was the tie-rod being seized. I brought it to a local guy and had him torch 'em to pop 'em out. but needless to say, had it done in less than 10 minutes without throwing off the alignment.
The shake in the steering is gone, as well as the feel of the ride is much more firmer.
Again, thanks for the help. I think your DIY should be a sticky for those who get conned by the dealerships.
 
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