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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Re: Seeking Info on XLR

I'm actively in the market. I'm seeing the same thing. lostnda50s

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2007, ok. I was looking for something a little older. I am concerned about parts availability. Why am I seeing owners of XLRs that are not even 10 years old , having a difficult time getting parts?
Gremlins. I was looking at a 2005. someone ask the owner if it had electrical issues. Does XLRs have electrical issues?
 

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I'm a 1st time buyer....1st time looker... of the XLR . 2007 and older. I could use some help on weak links in the car I should be looking for. Such as persistent electrical problems, master cylinder problems. You get the picture.
I sold a 1987 Grand National that I had for 20 years last August. I was always afraid to drive it. I want a "sporty eye catcher" that I'm not afraid to drive. Any help searching out them lil gremlins would be helpful. After I buy "the car" all them gremlins are mine.
Thank you I hope I did this right
Lostnda50s
 

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Read the posts here and you'll get a good idea of what to watch for.

In a nutshell:

1) Download an owner's manual and make a functional checklist for each system.
2) Inspect the back/lower area of the seats for torn, disconnected heating/cooling ducts.
3) Run the VIN of a prospective car through a GM dealership and have them print out the Service History. CarFAX is next to useless.
4) Inspect the trunk for dampness; earlier models tend to leak more.
5) Inspect the driver's side tub in the left/rear of the trunk under the rat fur carpet for signs of flooding that can wipe out the modules housed there. Ensure the drain hole/hose is clear there. If it plugs up and fills the tub, you will feel immense pain in your wallet.
6) Cycle the top five times with the engine running.
7) Inspect & road test the shocks. They cost $1000 each retail.
8) Inspect the headlights for crazing of the orange DRL bezels. Headlights cost $1000 each also. Later years used amber bulbs and clear bezels that weren't susceptible to heat.

The majority of the issues with the XLR older models are top-related. You cannot troubleshoot and repair the top without a Tech 2 scan tool, and will be reliant on a dealership to perform the repairs and sensor calibration. You have to pay to play with an XLR. If you're on a budget, the may not be for you. No matter what you pay for it, the XLR becomes a $75,000 car again when you take it in for service.

That being said, if you study up and buy a good one, it's a great car. They're a blast to drive, with a dual personality due to the folding hardtop. I've yet to own a car that didn't draw complete strangers to it nearly every time I fill up. It's a corvette in a tux. Very comfortable on long trips, with plenty of power. If you crave more, the V has it. Not much in the way of rear storage room with the top up, and a lot less with the top down.

Don't overpay! Dealer markup will be at least 25% over trade-in value.

CCC
 

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Thank you very much! That is very helpful.
I sold my 1987 Buick Grand National that I owned for 20 years last August. I thought my "need for speed" had some what subsided. Not the case. I've made a decision to wait a year or maybe 2 and go all out and buy a 2009 V.
Question. They will be less expensive in a year or 2 right?
Your thoughts. Pros and cons
Darwin
 

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In twenty years, you might see an uptick in XLR prices, but they are still depreciating, --though nowhere near the rate of any vehicle in Cadillac's lineup of the past two decades. It took four years for the base XLR to reach 50% of it's MSRP and a little longer for the V model to hit that. Compare that to an ELR, ATS or XTS; which is great for buyers, as I'm in the market for a two-year old XTS. Prices are nearly 50% of the MSRP. Ouch!

If you're on a budget, remember, without a Tech 2, you're reliant on a dealer for most troubleshooting when you have an issue, especially with the weakest component, --the Folding Top. Shocks and headlights are a grand apiece.

At 90k miles, my XLR looks and drives great. The car is still tight with no squeaks or rattles. The frame (a modified Corvette hydro-formed pair of extruded steel rails) is rock-solid, which is impressive considering a big portion of the car stows in the trunk with the top retracted. No twisting or flexing whatsoever when going over uneven surfaces. My nits with the car are very few.

Overall, it's been a wonderful ownership experience over the past seven-plus years.

CC
 

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.................go all out and buy a 2009 V. Question. They will be less expensive in a year or 2 right?
Your thoughts. Pros and cons
A 2009 CTS-V (or other -V car from Cadillac) will very likely have been rode hard and put away wet. You're not the only driver with a "need for speed" and what some owners do to/with these cars renders them useless as a resale item.
 

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The COB of the Mob has a good point. (I have a few stars on my boomer pin too.) I babied my CTS-V, before I let it go @ 20k miles, but you never know where a high-performance car has been. Obviously, the lower the mileage, the more it will cost. Personally, I'd be leery of buying anyone's V for the reason he mentioned. You would need to have any potential car inspected and tested by a pro before pulling the trigger . . . and that's no guarantee either.

CC
 
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