ok so i got it out. how do you torgue the bottom right bolts on the crossover the ones closest to the firewall the harness is in the way and i dont think i can wedge the torgue wrench in the to tighten them. anybody do this what or how did you torgue the bottom right bolts down thats my only question everything else is ok to do its just the right side is a pita cause of the wire harness also i took off the water pump cover it is easy to get to the 2 left side bottom bolts if you do that just fyi. any help i get im grateful. JOHNNY-CASH
Got the coolant crossover out but...
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As i remember on my 97 ETC its a pain but I did pull my harness up and out of the way,the one thing at that time was i had the OEM air box removed from car and the PCM held into place with large wire ties so it was easy to cut those and this gave me a bit of slack to pull on it.. I hope we are talking about the same things here. Now I didnt tourqe the bolts as I didnt have my tool box with me at that time because i was out of town .I did also do the W/P and the updated cover/t-housing...
I would never tell anyone not to tourqe as its more important with all aluminum engines then cast iron bolt o n components but if you have tourqed as many components as I have in my life i have a good feel for what things feel like and with what length rachet...
Good luck and keep us posted how it goes,sorry if I wasnt much help...
I would never tell anyone not to tourqe as its more important with all aluminum engines then cast iron bolt o n components but if you have tourqed as many components as I have in my life i have a good feel for what things feel like and with what length rachet...
Good luck and keep us posted how it goes,sorry if I wasnt much help...
no thats cool i was thinking maybe i have to take the ground wire off? i got it out it was a pita and my hands really hurt now but yea the first bolt on the bottom near firewall i used a box wrench its all 13mm the one to the left i had to keep cramming in my other small 13mm to get it out. it took a good half hour fyi. but once you get them out half an inch as long as the other bolts are out jiggle the crossover and you can undo them by hand but then again i got big hands that are now cut up. i went and bought a craftmans torgue wrench that set me back and i got the fsm and it says its all in the 30-40 ft lbs range i dont know exact im at work and with something that low i really dont want to over torque it. thanks for the input anyone else?
I replaced my crossover last summer. I torqued what I could get to and then firmed the two rear bolts by hand. Since then I purchased a cheap 1/4" clicker torque wrench from Harbor Freight. If I ever get into that situation again I think that is the way to go.
With the engine & trans. still under the hood, it is difficult if not unreasonable to properly torque the lower X-over bolts with out attachments & complex formulas to calculate the TQ wrench values after the geometry has been changed.
Sometimes you need to go with what you got keeping in mind that OVER TIGHTENING IS THE ENEMY and these blocks may have a pre-exisitng thread integrity issue. If you error you want to error on it being too loose.
When I did the X-over I just did my best to snug up the lower bolts equally by feel. The method used for head bolts & mains would be best in this predicament being able to snug it and turn the bolt a pre- determined degree angle. Thse bolts where origially installed this a thread sealer that would aid in holding the bolt in.
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm
you can see the thread sealer on the OEM lower bolts. The gaskets have steel limiters molded in so you can't tighten unequally or over crush the new gaskets.
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Sometimes you need to go with what you got keeping in mind that OVER TIGHTENING IS THE ENEMY and these blocks may have a pre-exisitng thread integrity issue. If you error you want to error on it being too loose.
When I did the X-over I just did my best to snug up the lower bolts equally by feel. The method used for head bolts & mains would be best in this predicament being able to snug it and turn the bolt a pre- determined degree angle. Thse bolts where origially installed this a thread sealer that would aid in holding the bolt in.
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm
you can see the thread sealer on the OEM lower bolts. The gaskets have steel limiters molded in so you can't tighten unequally or over crush the new gaskets.
allrighty then i didnt work on it today as it is snowig like crazy so im stuck driving the 08 accord exl (wifeys rig) kinda glad since i smashed in a curb going to work tonight lol dont tell her please.!!! stupid snow anyways yeah i think im going to just tighten them by hand then give it a quarter turn like you all said. wish me luck thought i would do this before summer time so i can just worry about washing it and i dont have to smell that coolant. the gaskets basically 2 of them fell apart. both lower ones i was able to push the metal parts out of them right away they were really bad. my feeling is if you have patience and dont get to mad at the lower bolts and take your time you can do it it just really sucks. wish me luck ill update when i get done ty all for your help. JOHNNY-CASH
ok so i got it all back together now
was a pain but i did it and never want to do it again.
got it all pressured up and there is no leaks i hand tighten the lower bolts on the x over btw. i got a code now pcm 0507 rpms too high i cleaned the contacts off let it run for ten mins and it went into history i cleared the code but i cant select first gear so idk what i did or didnt do any thoughts?
was a pain but i did it and never want to do it again.
got it all pressured up and there is no leaks i hand tighten the lower bolts on the x over btw. i got a code now pcm 0507 rpms too high i cleaned the contacts off let it run for ten mins and it went into history i cleared the code but i cant select first gear so idk what i did or didnt do any thoughts?
ok new update. a couple wot sent the code pcm 0507 away for now. no coolant leaks so far this week so here is a recap.
changing the x over you will need 13mm a 10mm mostly. and a torque wrench. i left the fuel lines alone and worked around them with no trouble. make sure if you do this BEFORE you take the x over out unplug the engine coolant temp plug as i didnt and ended up replacing it. its also best to change out the heater pipe plastic a rubber o ring. its pluged into the x over with a quick connect the quick connect is a 5/8ths NOT 3/4 as napa will try to sell you. wityh the heater pipe out put the quick connect on, then put plastic ring then rubber o ring then plastic ring. if you try to do this any other way it wont work had to do this trial and error. first two time not doing it this way ended up about 2 gallons of dex-cool on the garage floor. i put in 3 bars stop leak before i filled it up with coolant only reason is thats what the fsm calls for. when i put the x over back in it was hard to keep the gaskets on even with silicone sealant on them. i ended up doing the bottom right (firewall side) first. there is enough gap then do the bottom left. dont thread the bolts in too far just hand tighten them a couple threads. then you can do the top. saves alot of time and money for the kids swear jar let me tell you. im just trying to give a couple pointers that helped me like i said thru trial and error. it bugged me since day one the check coolant level and that god awful smell of coolant. i was losing 3 gallons every 5000 miles so i really needed to do it. i drove mine like that for 8000 miles. anyone that wants or needs help dont hesitate to pm me i would like to thank everyone on here but racer704, johnny kannapo, and moneypit for there quick response trying to help. i owe you guys a beer. also ranger and submariner for there past posts on the subject and also there past threads for help with other issues that are now fixed. my seville is a 98 and i have 153000 miles on it i bought it in oct for $2700.00. it looked like crap. about 2500 bucks later, flowmasters 40 deltas, some tint, e & g billit grille and 10k hid lows and fogs got me offers already for 6000$!!! also found out that vouge tyres are crazy expensive and make you want to cry when one bnlows out (300$) one tire! i swicted to kumos lol. anyways like i said thanks to all and if your considering this project you can do it! just go slow i was a wrench turner in the army before i went to iraq then i turned into a target lol but this job still took me 16 hours total including going to napa, autozone, and orielly's. if you get mad take a chill pill or do what i did and rip out your engine coolant sensor harness. thanks again and remember YOUR NEVER LACKIN WHEN YOUR CADILLACIN.
changing the x over you will need 13mm a 10mm mostly. and a torque wrench. i left the fuel lines alone and worked around them with no trouble. make sure if you do this BEFORE you take the x over out unplug the engine coolant temp plug as i didnt and ended up replacing it. its also best to change out the heater pipe plastic a rubber o ring. its pluged into the x over with a quick connect the quick connect is a 5/8ths NOT 3/4 as napa will try to sell you. wityh the heater pipe out put the quick connect on, then put plastic ring then rubber o ring then plastic ring. if you try to do this any other way it wont work had to do this trial and error. first two time not doing it this way ended up about 2 gallons of dex-cool on the garage floor. i put in 3 bars stop leak before i filled it up with coolant only reason is thats what the fsm calls for. when i put the x over back in it was hard to keep the gaskets on even with silicone sealant on them. i ended up doing the bottom right (firewall side) first. there is enough gap then do the bottom left. dont thread the bolts in too far just hand tighten them a couple threads. then you can do the top. saves alot of time and money for the kids swear jar let me tell you. im just trying to give a couple pointers that helped me like i said thru trial and error. it bugged me since day one the check coolant level and that god awful smell of coolant. i was losing 3 gallons every 5000 miles so i really needed to do it. i drove mine like that for 8000 miles. anyone that wants or needs help dont hesitate to pm me i would like to thank everyone on here but racer704, johnny kannapo, and moneypit for there quick response trying to help. i owe you guys a beer. also ranger and submariner for there past posts on the subject and also there past threads for help with other issues that are now fixed. my seville is a 98 and i have 153000 miles on it i bought it in oct for $2700.00. it looked like crap. about 2500 bucks later, flowmasters 40 deltas, some tint, e & g billit grille and 10k hid lows and fogs got me offers already for 6000$!!! also found out that vouge tyres are crazy expensive and make you want to cry when one bnlows out (300$) one tire! i swicted to kumos lol. anyways like i said thanks to all and if your considering this project you can do it! just go slow i was a wrench turner in the army before i went to iraq then i turned into a target lol but this job still took me 16 hours total including going to napa, autozone, and orielly's. if you get mad take a chill pill or do what i did and rip out your engine coolant sensor harness. thanks again and remember YOUR NEVER LACKIN WHEN YOUR CADILLACIN.
If someone offers $6000 you should not hesitate to sell it unless its your mother offering.
Then start fresh -Cadillaken all over again.
Then start fresh -Cadillaken all over again.
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