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'04 Raven CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, its about that time. Heading to VIR this weekend for the first time with the V. Damn near excited already

Tried to do as much prep as I could....
- Filled out the tech inspection form at a mechanic buddy's garage.
- Changed oil (Mobil 1)
- Flushed the power steering fluid and replaced with Royal Purple.
- Bled the brakes and flushed with Performance Friction Zrated DOT3.
- Pulled stock brake pads (at 3 and 5mm left, 26K on odo) and replaced fronts with HP+ and rears with HPS. Putting HPS on fronts after I get back from the track.
- Rotated tires and left the chrome lug nut tops off and center wheel caps off.
- put in some coolant and added some coolant additive (no big advantage, but its going to be 90+ out there)
- bought a camera mount and borrowing buddy's video camera with image stability. Using the back seat passenger headrest for mount. Sounds like crap when windows are down, but can pick up in-car conversation easy, speedo, and good view from up front. Good to learn from.
- The lodge at VIR was sold out, so settled for the Hampton. http://hamptoninn.hilton.com/en/hp/hotels/index.jhtml;jsessionid=KZRPX02FADXGECSGBJC3EWQ?ctyhocn=DANRSHX
- ended up getting a Pyrotec SA2005 full face helmet (black of course). Found out being over 6'2" makes a pretty tight fit in the car with the helmet on.
- ended up getting the CG Lock for the seatbelt. Not sure why since early testing lets me know using it makes we want to go to the bathroom quicker...lots of pressure down there.
- forgot all the track prep stuff I wrote up, but its on cadillacfaq..
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/trackprep.html

Still haven't received my packet from CarGuys. You guys that are going...what time is tech inspection in the morning?

You track addicts out there, any more advice? Best practices? :)


T
 

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2016 ATS Premium 6-spd MT
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... bought a camera mount and borrowing buddy's video camera with image stability. Using the back seat passenger headrest for mount. Sounds like crap when windows are down, but can pick up in-car conversation easy, speedo, and good view from up front. Good to learn from. ...T
Can you post some of your video?
 

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2004 CTSV(killed), 2005 CTSV(killed that too). 2004 DTS.
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Bring water/gatorade.
Monitor tire pressure with a real guage at the schrader.
Straight line brake so you don't get crossed up.
If your brakes get soft, come in early before you totally fry them.
Use your stability control. It lets you know if your driving sloppy. There is no shame in that regardless of what people may say.
Walk around and talk to people.
Have a blast. I know you will.
Looking forward to the video.

PS- Saferacer.com has good deals. I got my open face helmet for $99. SWEET!
 

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'04 Raven CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #4

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'04 Raven CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #5
Yep....bringing the cooler (sans my favorite adult beverages) full of drinks and food. Heading over to a friend's house right now to borrow a 10x10 party tent for the paddock. Just checked weather.com..... sunny (good) and 95 degrees (not so good). You guys in SoCal, AZ, FL, TX, etc...not sure how your cars don't melt on the track.

T
 

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2006 CTS-V
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i used to run an extra quart of oil in my vette as recommended by gm, to prevent oil starvation. since the v is a pushrod cheap insurance. watch your oil temps, if you approach 300 back off. and i would recommend changing again afterwards.
 

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Alright, its about that time. Heading to VIR this weekend for the first time with the V. Damn near excited already

Tried to do as much prep as I could....
- Filled out the tech inspection form at a mechanic buddy's garage.
- Changed oil (Mobil 1)
- Flushed the power steering fluid and replaced with Royal Purple.
- Bled the brakes and flushed with Performance Friction Zrated DOT3.
- Pulled stock brake pads (at 3 and 5mm left, 26K on odo) and replaced fronts with HP+ and rears with HPS. Putting HPS on fronts after I get back from the track.
- Rotated tires and left the chrome lug nut tops off and center wheel caps off.
- put in some coolant and added some coolant additive (no big advantage, but its going to be 90+ out there)
- bought a camera mount and borrowing buddy's video camera with image stability. Using the back seat passenger headrest for mount. Sounds like crap when windows are down, but can pick up in-car conversation easy, speedo, and good view from up front. Good to learn from.
- The lodge at VIR was sold out, so settled for the Hampton. http://hamptoninn.hilton.com/en/hp/hotels/index.jhtml;jsessionid=KZRPX02FADXGECSGBJC3EWQ?ctyhocn=DANRSHX
- ended up getting a Pyrotec SA2005 full face helmet (black of course). Found out being over 6'2" makes a pretty tight fit in the car with the helmet on.
- ended up getting the CG Lock for the seatbelt. Not sure why since early testing lets me know using it makes we want to go to the bathroom quicker...lots of pressure down there.
- forgot all the track prep stuff I wrote up, but its on cadillacfaq..
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/trackprep.html

Still haven't received my packet from CarGuys. You guys that are going...what time is tech inspection in the morning?

You track addicts out there, any more advice? Best practices? :)


T
Super awesome. Even though I did the June 2 day event and have been to Grattan and Putnam since, I'm jealous. Am I correct that you're running the Full course, sans Patriot? If so, I think that will be easier for you. The Grand Course was a handful to learn. Any tips on the track, I'd be glad to help.

Start out with just TC off and as you go, move on to Competitive Driving Mode. Being your first track day, I wouldn't go all off. There's too many places you can go "off track".

Since you're running street pads and tires, your fluid should be OK. I boiled my ATE Typ 200 fluid on a similarly hot day. Motul 600 is where it's at. And titanium shims.

Cruisecam mounts are nice. That's what I've been using.

Make sure you get to your hotel before 2:15AM. Get plenty of sleep. If they have tech the night before, go then. Get there early and relax. If you're not in the V, have a drink in your hand. If you need any fluids, pads or other track items, the CDOC store is awesome.

You can get around VIR in 3rd and 4th. You can downshift into 2nd at the Oak Tree but you don't have to. I'd say the first few laps or sessions, just get the line right and stay in 3rd. As you get more comfortable, get into 2nd.

VIR is probably going to be overwhelming at first. It was my umpteenth track day and I had a hard time at first. I'd crest a hill and be asking my instructor which way the track turns next. Take it slowly and learn the track. The layout will eventually make sense and you'll get to improve from there. Have fun!!
 

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Did you bed the new pads to the old rotors?

Tell your instructor the things that were changed recently so they'll be first to pick on signs of leakage or failure.

Have fun!


Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i used to run an extra quart of oil in my vette as recommended by gm, to prevent oil starvation. since the v is a pushrod cheap insurance. watch your oil temps, if you approach 300 back off. and i would recommend changing again afterwards.
Thanks for the advice...bringing extra of every fluid (almost) and will knock a little more in there before this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Super awesome. Even though I did the June 2 day event and have been to Grattan and Putnam since, I'm jealous. Am I correct that you're running the Full course, sans Patriot? If so, I think that will be easier for you. The Grand Course was a handful to learn. Any tips on the track, I'd be glad to help.

Start out with just TC off and as you go, move on to Competitive Driving Mode. Being your first track day, I wouldn't go all off. There's too many places you can go "off track".

Since you're running street pads and tires, your fluid should be OK. I boiled my ATE Typ 200 fluid on a similarly hot day. Motul 600 is where it's at. And titanium shims.

Cruisecam mounts are nice. That's what I've been using.

Make sure you get to your hotel before 2:15AM. Get plenty of sleep. If they have tech the night before, go then. Get there early and relax. If you're not in the V, have a drink in your hand. If you need any fluids, pads or other track items, the CDOC store is awesome.

You can get around VIR in 3rd and 4th. You can downshift into 2nd at the Oak Tree but you don't have to. I'd say the first few laps or sessions, just get the line right and stay in 3rd. As you get more comfortable, get into 2nd.

VIR is probably going to be overwhelming at first. It was my umpteenth track day and I had a hard time at first. I'd crest a hill and be asking my instructor which way the track turns next. Take it slowly and learn the track. The layout will eventually make sense and you'll get to improve from there. Have fun!!

Yeah, heard the Grand or North course at VIR is better for smaller cars. Full is better for the V to stretch its legs. Thanks for the advice BigJim.

T
 

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'05 CTS-VM 51 track days in Maggied V & 82 in Atom 2 in Volt
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I would have liked to seen more street miles and heat cycles on the new pads before spanking on them. Proper bedding and "seasoning" will result in longer life.

Several words of wisdom:
Work on smooth, fast will not come before smooth.

Slow in, fast out. This car is a pig with plenty of power, take your time to brake in a straight line and power out at the apex. Little buzz boxes can't go fast so they do 60-80 around the track. The V does 40-100 which takes more braking sooner so they'll be up your bum in the turns and then you'll be gone on the straights. This is fun for a little while but don't be an ass, let them by after you've made your point. If you can keep up with them for two laps then they are slow.

Leave stability control and traction control on full until you can go around the track without it coming on. If it's coming on then your pitching the car. I still leave my stability control on, despite what the others say, I guarantee that if you are driving a proper line it will not come on and if it does, it's saving your ass.

I use a dot of white liquid shoe polish on the shoulder of each tire to see how they are folding over. Raise/lower by about 2psi to move in/out to the little V's. Listen to the tires they'll start to cry before they let go.

CG lock works well, crank it down about as hard as you can stand it right before you get on track, it's one less thing to worry about sliding around the seat.

Last lap, turn on the A/C on full blast. It does two things, the fans come on high to cool the engine and you'll need some cooling too. I run with A/C all the time, with a little help from "mail order" tune it'll disengage/engage at strategic times. Use the last lap to cool the car and get back on line.

Switch monitor over to oil temp, if your oil starts to get too hot your shifting too late, run this car on the bottom end not the top like a DOHC motor. I run all >2.5mile tracks in 3rd and 4th. Think 4-6k rpm. I don't have any trouble running with standard level of motor oil, I think too much will actually splash around the bottom end causing drag and extra heat. If your pulling >1.25 g's first time out, your driving the wrong car for your skills.

Don't worry about all this technical stuff, go out and enjoy the car, track and day. Drink at least a bottle of water after each session, "if your not flowing, your not goin'.."
and "Nothing you do on track will increase the value of your car."


I've been trying to impart all this knowledge on:poke: floWWer but to no avail..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you bed the new pads to the old rotors?
Norm, you bring up a good question. Thread-jacking my own thread...oh well. How do you guys put on new pads to old rotors that still have good life in them? I know how I did it, but wanted to hear you guys sound off. I understand the reasons why I shouldn't have, but it again came down to cost (and I am just starting out here).

T
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dennisscars said:
I would have liked to seen more street miles and heat cycles on the new pads before spanking on them. Proper bedding and "seasoning" will result in longer life. ..
I bedded them the best I could (given roads/traffic) and they have been on the car for 600+ miles.

Dennisscars said:
I use a dot of white liquid shoe polish on the shoulder of each tire to see how they are folding over. Raise/lower by about 2psi to move in/out to the little V's. Listen to the tires they'll start to cry before they let go.
..
Its already in the box with extra liquids. :thumbsup:

Dennisscars said:
CG lock works well, crank it down about as hard as you can stand it right before you get on track, it's one less thing to worry about sliding around the seat.
..
Thanks, it does hold my butt in the seat well. Needing to pee is a by-product :)

Dennisscars said:
Last lap, turn on the A/C on full blast. It does two things, the fans come on high to cool the engine and you'll need some cooling too. I run with A/C all the time, with a little help from "mail order" tune it'll disengage/engage at strategic times. Use the last lap to cool the car and get back on line.
..
This is new one to me. Something tells me I am going to need it :bouncy:

Dennisscars said:
"Nothing you do on track will increase the value of your car."
Now thats the quote of the day. :alchi:
 

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600 miles, your good to go!

If you going to do this any length of time invest in one of these. I probably would get the hard lunch bucket size for the V but I figured the lunch bag size would be better riding in the Atom as space is limited.
http://www.coolshirt.net/racing-portable-bag-system.html
Ran last Friday at Buttonwillow near 100 degrees. They are amazing. Best money spent after R compound tires!
 

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Leave stability control and traction control on full until you can go around the track without it coming on. If it's coming on then your pitching the car. I still leave my stability control on, despite what the others say, I guarantee that if you are driving a proper line it will not come on and if it does, it's saving your ass.
You've obviously never been to Grattan...
 

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Switch monitor over to oil temp, if your oil starts to get too hot your shifting too late, run this car on the bottom end not the top like a DOHC motor. I run all >2.5mile tracks in 3rd and 4th. Think 4-6k rpm. I don't have any trouble running with standard level of motor oil, I think too much will actually splash around the bottom end causing drag and extra heat. If your pulling >1.25 g's first time out, your driving the wrong car for your skills.
Absolutely. Oil temps are most crucial. And if you can get around a track shifting on feel and not focusing on the redline, you'll be faster. The beauty of the LS engine...
 

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You've obviously never been to Grattan...
Having not been there, does that mean it's easier than the corkscrew at Laguna Seca, the wall of fame at Infineon, or Magic Mountain at Buttonwillow, where I have been? If it's harder then I'd say for newbie's it should be mandatory.

Why turn off something that's going to save your ass on a car that your making payments on and most likely to have to drive home?

There are no scouts in the stands...

I like taking my car home clean and in one piece unlike Bimmer boy who totaled his car by hitting the wall because he "thought" he could save it, shot across track and hit the wall.

more power to ya' I guess we're there for different reasons.
 

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I dont think I'm going to make it this weekend :( I've got to sell my V in the next 50 days so its probably best not to track it and risk damage. That was a hard decision to make, but I've gotta stick to it. Say whats up to Aryan. Also be on the look out for a beige SVT Crown Vic, my boy Johnnie was swapping out the slushbox for a 5-spd, not sure if he finished though.
 

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Having not been there, does that mean it's easier than the corkscrew at Laguna Seca, the wall of fame at Infineon, or Magic Mountain at Buttonwillow, where I have been? If it's harder then I'd say for newbie's it should be mandatory.

Why turn off something that's going to save your ass on a car that your making payments on and most likely to have to drive home?

There are no scouts in the stands...

I like taking my car home clean and in one piece unlike Bimmer boy who totaled his car by hitting the wall because he "thought" he could save it, shot across track and hit the wall.

more power to ya' I guess we're there for different reasons.
Uh-oh, I think I hit the serious button... Hey Dennis, walk down the street and get yourself a double shot of espresso at Starbucks. You should never post this early without caffeine infusion.

I was agreeing with you. I guess I could've pared down your quote to just the last sentence. What I was saying is that at Grattan you'd have to slow way down to not trip the Stabilitrak. At Putnam, I ran all day and saw the screen twice. But Grattan has 12 turns with 6 off camber and 1 severely on camber. Add a couple of violent compressions that you need to hit for maximum adhesion and that screen lights up numerous times per lap.

But thanks for the resume. I enjoy that...
 
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