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06 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #1
I think I may have just popped my diff. It was new as of last year, when I bought the car it only had a few K on it. Installed hendrix axles last summer too. I went to take of at a light not very hard either, let out the clutch and heard a pop, then nothing but a whirr and grinding noise.
I was only about 2 blocks away from my work, so when I put it in gear I was able to idle it there.
Not 100 % sure it's the diff, maybe if I'm lucky the axle popped out, or maybe a blown CV on the Hendrix axle??
No oil leaking from anywhere so if it's the diff it's an internal failure.
I blew the spider gears apart in my base CTS before, it was definitely a more dramatic popping sound and flopping around of one of my axles.
Called the local dealership for a new diff they want 4K Cnd for it. LOL, looks like I maybe calling Luke.
I'll try to get it up in the air this weekend.
Good thing it happened here, as I was going to take it on a 500 mile road trip on Monday.
 

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Doubt it's the diff. Good luck though.
 
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Lay on the ground and pull/tug on the axles. You should be able to tell pretty easily without lifting it up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just looked under there, car is lowered so I can't really crawl underneath, but it looks like the passanger side axle popped out. It could be it just popped out after a year? or maybe the CV is toast, I believe hendrix said the CV's were good for 1000 hp considering I got the race CV's.
Maybe I'm lucky and I just need to reseat the axle.
 
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I don't think there is enough movement to allow the stub to pull completely out of the diff. You most likely twisted it off inside the diff. I did this to my stock one also. LOTS of fun getting all the pieces out of the diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The stub is still in the diff just there is more of a space between the casing and the CV. I recently replaced a CV boot on the drivers axle, while I was at it I added locktite to the drivers side bolts and checked the torque on the passanger side, everything was fine then.
I hoping 300m axle wouldn't break of on the splined stub
 
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Mine looked that way also, but it was twisted apart inside. The gap would have to be about 2" for the splines to be completely disengaged.
 

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Holy crap, tommy. Just tuned into this thread. I'll be watching this thread like a hawk! Keep us poasted.

Good luck.

:food-snacking:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well here's the bad news, my Hendrix 1000 hp axle the ones that never break, the passanger side splines that go into the diff have sheared off.
So the axle broke, with if i'm lucky 400 hp to the wheels. That's not too bad I'm sure Hendrix can replace my inner stub, but the stub is broken off inside my relatively new 4th gen diff, I pretty much had to hammer the axle out. So i'm assuming it will need at least a new bearing if I can get the twisted stub out. I drained the diff fluid and there was no evidence of metal shards in the oil, but who knows if I can get the remnants out or what else is going on in the diff untill I crack the case. Hoping I don't need to buy a new diff. I didn't have time to pull the drivers side which I assume is the clutch pack side.
What to do guys? this is one of the reasons I went with the pro axles so I could upgrade power and not worry about them, now I'm not even sure if I trust a replacement, that can potentially trash a new differential.
I'll be posting up some pics of the carnage shortly.
What do you guys think Hendrix should be responsible for?, I'd say atleast getting me a new inner stub if not one for each side.
 
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damn that blows(no pun intended). replacing any part that broke due to the failure would be my understanding. I have his econo axler and am making 500rwhp/500rwtq, hope it dont happen to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have less than 10K miles on the Hendix axles and maybe about 14k on the diff. The stock axles lasted longer from the previous owner which were in perfect shape when I removed them.
I replaced a drivers side CV boot that leaked soon after I installed them, Hendrix was cool about sending me a new boot already clamped to the plate. So maybe a refund on the $1500+ axles would be in order considering a diff will cost me more than that.
If I can salvage the diff it sould only cost me a couple hundred in parts and labour(not confident in repacking a diff myself).
There were definitely many stress fractures around each spline on the shaft itself, so I'm not sure if improper hardening is to blame or what?
If this is merely an isolated incident or not?
 

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The stub is still in the diff just there is more of a space between the casing and the CV. I recently replaced a CV boot on the drivers axle, while I was at it I added locktite to the drivers side bolts and checked the torque on the passanger side, everything was fine then.
I hoping 300m axle wouldn't break of on the splined stub
Damn that sucks! I would have freaked out if that happened. I hope your diff is ok. I'm sure it is an isolated incident, must have been a flaw in the metal. Your replacement should be fine.

BTW...those axles are chromoly not 300m.
 

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:helpless:Hi-Def pictures would be nice for a better speculation on the cause.
Provided there was a proper fit with respect to the machining and fit of the axles, :coffee:my guess would be
that there were sufficient stress risers and/or heat treatment flaws to precipitate a break of this magnatude.
A 'shinier/sparklier' look, would indicate brute force, but dullness in between the 'sparklies' to the metal with a slight twist would be a mfg flaw. Where I use to work, we would x-ray parts to an ASTM E-192 Standard and reject anything (of eight plate #s) of plate #4 or above.
I wonder if the mfg does NT testing. (non-destructive testing via florescent penetrant and radiographic)
 

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Holy crap Tommy! Sorry to hear this! You are going to have to take the side of the diff apart to get that out.

I hope mine don't break like that. Ya unfortunately we were lead to believe his axles were 300m, they are chromoly. That said, that shouldn't have broken like that.

What did Hendrix say about all this??
 
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BTW...those axles are chromoly not 300m.
Yup. They've been tested and are NOT what they claim to be.

This is exactly what I did to my stock axle. It doesn't take much mechanical ability to get the diff out, apart and put back together. I did mine in about 6 hours. I'm sure your splines are fine, may have to file the first 1/8" but should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:helpless:Hi-Def pictures would be nice for a better speculation on the cause.
I'll try get better pics up this weekend.

What did Hendrix say about all this??
I'll try calling him today

Yup. They've been tested and are NOT what they claim to be.

This is exactly what I did to my stock axle. It doesn't take much mechanical ability to get the diff out, apart and put back together. I did mine in about 6 hours. I'm sure your splines are fine, may have to file the first 1/8" but should be ok.
You hit the nail on the head about it being a broken axle.

Saturday I'll take the diff out and crack the case, hopefully Luke can get any parts I need. This sucks, I was hoping I'd be trouble free with a new gen diff and pro axles. Now both are buggered from a part that shouldn't have broke.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Damn that sucks! I would have freaked out if that happened. I hope your diff is ok. I'm sure it is an isolated incident, must have been a flaw in the metal. Your replacement should be fine.

BTW...those axles are chromoly not 300m.
I thought the stubs were suppossed to be 300m. I really hope it is an isolated incident, otherwise it's only a matter of time.
 
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