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06 CTS-V, Dec 20, 2005
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
...I'm not responsible for anything that may go wrong with your install... this is just what I did after much research...Enjoy!

This install, to me, was the best way to integrate an AUX port rather than making a homemade part to place behind the radio for roughly the same price. And the ability to switch between a working XM and AUX is nice. Also, the best way to get a clean sounding aftermarket sub system (I've unpluged the stock Bose sub and just left it there). Special thanks and some parts list on the bottom.

I started off by getting the install ideas and much of the info can be found here: only thing was some things were a bit confusing and I had question on certain wire colors (like the browns compared to tan).

After removing the top deck and the truck side panels from the back of the car to make later access easier, I proceeded under the front hood to installed the amp power wire from the main battery connector and ran the power cable to the trunk along the right side of the car. Typically you only need one fuse (in this case I used the Kicker cable kit) a few inches from the power cable in the engine compartment prior to the firewall (or prior to it running through any metal for that matter)... I used a rubber grommet in the firewall hole to prevent the firewall cutting into the cable. Note: if you run the RCA wires from the front of the car to the back, it is recommended to run those wires along the opposite side of the car from the amp power cable.

You can see how I ran the cable through the car fuse box's main power supply cable. (this cable comes straight from the +pos battery)
Just remove the 10mm bolt and reinstall like so...

Next I prepped the AAI-GM12 AUX adapter by unpinning the plugs (cause I'm anal... you literally can just cut them off with wire cutters). This can be done with a mini flat-head screw driver or super thin piece of strong metal. How this works is, there is always a tab insertion point. This is where you insert a tool to depress the tab on the wire connector. Be careful not to push too hard and brake your tool (like I did), it shouldn't take much force. Just press and wiggle the tool around a little bit.

I've used the orange wire for the example, you can see the tabs here male and female... typically the male connector will be in the female bracket, and opposite for the female...

(female connector that's in the male black bracket)

(male connector that's in the female gray bracket)

For both, insert your mini tool (no pun) into the slot (ok maybe a pun...) like shown here...

Black male bracket with female connector

Gray female bracket with male connector

Then it will come out like so...


Next came the tedious task of figuring out which wires go where. You're only using the wires shown here... (there is an extra wire that you will not use. It is somewhat shorter then the rest and is more of a tan color). The diagrams stated tan color should be light brown and brown should be dark brown...

Diagram (I've marked the colors that go together and penciled M/F for what side is male or female so it's a completely plug and play in case later removal)

With my experience with model airplanes and such, Pololu (parts below) has these great connectors that are nice and thin and look nice. They work very well and I've added the connector lock for these that can be found at most online RC hobby stores, but part is below as well. note: I like the Futaba J connectors better than the JR connectors because of an extra tab on the male side so you don't place the connector upside down on accident... But as you can see I place a small dot on the connectors anyways, just in case.

The process goes: strip, place connector, and crimp.

and Voilà (male and female connector examples)


06 CTS-V, Dec 20, 2005
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Then cut the tab...

Using the diagram, the wires go together in the Futaba J connectors like this... (you can pick what side is male or female, personal preference or do like my plug and play system).

After you've removed the panel above the rear seats as stated in the other sites how to directions, you'll see the XM module. It was tough and took some back and forth rocking and pulling muscle to remove (wear tough gloves). Unplug the cable from the XM module, unwrap the tin foil and tape a bit, and these are the wires you'll be working with...

Using the same process as above and cut the wires so you have enough room to work with them... Like mentioned a few times already, this is done in a way where it is completely plug and play just in case i need to remove it later, all I have to do is unplug it and plug in the XM wires together once again.


06 CTS-V, Dec 20, 2005
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

Then the power and ground wires use a normal tap type red connector...

After it was all plugged in, I tested it and it works great!

I used those yellow locks for the connectors as stated...

After it was all working great, I installed it in the truck. There's a perfect size hole to use a grommet to protect the wires running through. And I used an piece of foam I had extra from something else to protect from the later vibration of the sub's soon to come...

Using RCA audio extension wires, I ran the wires like so to the connector double sided taped to the inner frame... Using the part below from amazon (USB AUX RCA Extension), I ran the wires to the trunk as shown. I used the back seat cigarette lighter to do this. You can use anything you want as long as it's a RCA audio to ??? whatever you want. Be creative.

Now that the XM module and AUX Pac are finished. I moved onto the amp install.

I'll supply the diagrams and as much complete pictures here to help. This car and the way it works was a brain ****, but thanks to heavymetals, this whole system turned out the best that it can. Apparently this car is wired in a way to work with the bose amp that runs pretty much everything. So you must install this in a way very similar to the way I did it to get it to be worth while at all.

The wire diagram... and keep note, we're only paying attention to the amp and sub section labeled (second from left): Speaker Rear Subwoofer / Rear Subwoofer Speaker Output (+,-)
The (+)positive wire is the BU/WH (blue wire, white stripe)
The (-)negative wire is the GN/BK (green wire, black stripe)

These wires can be followed from the stock sub speaker plug up top (like where the XM module is but on the other side of the sub), all the way around to, finally, the amp, after running through the back seat fuse box, from what I remember. The plug to the stock sub has different wire colors.
Such as...

The plug on the top deck... right side goes to stock amp, left side goes to amp (sry for the photo goof)

06 CTS-V, Dec 20, 2005
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Then the plug on the bottom of the stock bose amp... we need to take the (+) and (-) signal from the Blue and Green wires (using a 10mm wrench and removing the amp will make working on this a breeze)

Using the same technique to unpin the connectors in the bracket, please take note as to which one goes where to reinstall. You can see the plastic that falls into the connector detent you must defeat to pull this out... I marked my connector which you can see with blue and green marker ahead of time.

After the pins were removed, I soldered some similar color wires I had extra from another project which actually matched almost perfect; I got lucky. (don't forget to place shrink tube prior to this step if you're going to use it!)

After the solder work I used the shrink to tube protect any bare wire issues...

Next, I installed the two wire JST RCY Connector, just like the three wire Futaba J's...

This is what the finished signal tap wire looks like after I used some protecting wrap.

After this was completed, I ran a long signal wire with enough distance to reach the after market amp.
(Alpine MRP-M500)

I would have gone with the similar Kenwood to match the new sub speakers (I'll get to later) and I like the way the wire inputs are, however, the Kenwood did not have the option for an external power adjustment: Alpine RUX-KNOB

The new amp came with a speaker level input plug which I unpinned all the wires and used the amp signal wire's I just tapped into for the best signal available with this type of setup. Crazy bose wiring... And pinned into channel 1.
DO NOT USE A LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER!!! Or a.k.a. LOC. Please for the love of whatever you believe in... These things are garbage; return, sell on ebay, or just trash it if you got one... The concept behind them is that you can tune the signal to 5 AC volts (if it's adjustable). All you have to do is, using your volt meter, attach the proper (+)pos and (-)neg from this signal to the volt meter, and turn the volume knob up till you get the 5 AC volts... so you tune from there (which I will cover later)

After the amps all somewhat taken care of, I threw (lightly of course) the new subs in the trunk. After some research and help from, once again, heavymetals, I found that this setup will run best (being a mono amp) with the amps (+)pos going to both (+)pos sub inputs and the amps (-)neg going to both (-) sub inputs. is an awesome site to help out with any setup you have. I'll explain my calculations with ohm and watts later for these speakers: Kenwood KFC-W3013PS

Before you can turn the thing on, you need a clean 12 AC volt (+)pos power signal. There are some easier fuses you can tap into in the back seat fuse boxes but from what I found is that they are constant on or something, not enough 12 AC volts clean. So I read that the ignition is the preferred tap. (underneath the steering wheel)

06 CTS-V, Dec 20, 2005
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What you need is this plug (above) and tap into this wire... You can see in the above picture, I singled out the wire; I think it is brown, the only brown wire on the strand. Dark brown if anything.

After this was tapped into properly I ran the wire along the left side of the car, underneath the back seat, and around to the right where I'm going to install the new amp.
Here's some pictures of almost the finished product so I can run some tests.

Here we get to the nitty gritty of the headache for some...

If you're unsure of were to start, this is what I do (without product manuals... Which I have, this is just for example). If you have a basic volt meter, this will be your best friend. Put it to the ohm setting and plug the volt meters (+)pos to the subs (+)pos and same for the (-)neg... It will tell you what your sub ohm rating is. Some dual coils will be changeable how you wire it, but I prefer a single voice coil for this setup to go along with the mono amp.

Ohm test... (3.8 which is basically right at 4 ohms) and the other speaker tested exactly the same...

So we have 2x 4 ohm speakers at 400 max RMS (please use Max RMS and not peak power rating or handling in you calculations or your speakers are most likely toast). The speakers as wired shown previously make the amp see 2 ohms. So we now have a Mono sub seeing 2 ohms at 800 watts. The problem is I didn't want all that much power cause my ears will cry. This is what lead me to go with the weaker more affordable amp. The ratings of this are 300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms or 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. So we will be using 500 watts as my max watts in my calculations. (Mono amp at 500 watts and 2 ohms). This is because I don't want to overpower the amp trying to push 800 watts out of it.

We now have everything needed to set the power of the amp to run to the speakers! Yay! What a brain ****.

The formula to set your amp is called Ohms law. AC Volts (V) which is what we're solving for, (P)ower RMS power of the amp = 500, and (R) ohms load or resistance.

In other words: V = square root of Power times Ohms or (V=Sqrt P*R) (remember your order of operations)

V=Sqrt 500 * 2

So 31.62 is what we're looking for from the AC volts on the volt meter.

I turned down everything on the amp, rux-knob, and car stereo volume knob and audio options (Bass) before doing this. The systems always run super clean off of a 5 volt signal (from what I understand) from the main signal, in my case from the stock bose amp. So I played a 50 hz tone which I found on youtube. I got the 50 hz number from the new amp and sub speaker ratings: amp = low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) subs = frequency response: 34-300 Hz. So nevertheless, it's just a frequency to tune a signal to, nothing more... 60 hz would also be appropriate.

After everythings turned down, plug your volt meter onto the (+)pos and (-)neg of the bose amp, turn your volt meter to AC Volts, and proceed to turn the car volume knob up till you get a 5 AC volts reading on the volt meter.
Next, keeping that volume the same, plug the volt meter into the new amps (+)pos and (-)neg (since this is a mono amp, there's only one pos and neg to tune), then proceed to turn the gain up until you reach the magic AC Volt 31.62 number.
Finally, set the amps frequency response up to the subs rating were mine is (frequency response: 34-300 Hz), so 300 Hz is where I set it.

Now you have the nicely tuned boom boom from the Aux port!

I've elected to go with a sealed box for the two 12's, so there's a very nice rumble when needed that can also be tight sounding... The only issue is because of the Bose signal where some songs that sound sound tight will sound a bit muddy as some call it... Most people don't even realize, but I'm super sound critical because of a small background of mine in music...

Also, I've faced my speakers toward the passengers. This is in part because it sounds so much better with the sound coming into the vehicle rather than the precious sought after sound bouncing around in the trunk and so people outside can hear it better... but who cares about them?

Lastly, it does not need a battery cap or whatever those silly things are a waste of money anyways... sales gimmick me thinks... Light don't flash even at full power, so it's VERRRY NIIICE!! I LIIIKE!!!

Final product and installation...

Special thanks to...

-tech info
-calculations and wire diagrams

PAC AUDIO PART# AAI-GM12 AUX input adapter (search AAI-GM12) or just purchase off ebay or the like.
Crimping Tool: 0.1-1.0 mm² Capacity, 16-28 AWG,
For amp signal: JST RCY Connector Pack, Male,
For amp signal: JST RCY Connector Pack, Female,
For Pac wires: Futaba J Connector Pack, Male,
For Pac wires: Futaba J Connector Pack, Female, also has a bunch of good stuff and you can find these yellow connector locks at any online RC hobby store.
Servo Connector Lock,
Dash Mount USB AUX RCA Extension Cable Adapter,

Amp: Alpine MRP-M500

Subs: Kenwood KFC-W3013PS

More on PAC AAI-GM12 install info here (pretty straight forward but hope the photos help clarify a few things)

06 CTS-V, Dec 20, 2005
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all! ...guess just an update, still running great and thumping pretty well; even though the amp is a bit under powered and sound has a tendency to sound a bit muddy (only on hard heavy bass hits). Haven't had a complaint in the car yet except to turn the bass down! lol

I'm also glad I went with the in-facing subs because the sound sounds as great as it can in the car. I don't care if people outside can hear it or not. Another big plus is the subs are well protected and I don't fear putting anything in the trunk!
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