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I'm new here for posting so sorry if this is repetitive or already covered. Since my Deville has started the overheating issue I have been kinda involved in it lately. The trunk pull down hasn't worked in over 5 years. I messed with it then and ordered a replacement motor on EBAY , it didn't work either so I was thinking some complicated deal so I quit. Recently I returned to it with my multi meter. There are like 4 or 5 wires on the electric jack that go to it. I tested different combinations and 1 and 3 I believe read 12 volt ... if I reversed the leads it read -12 volts. So I knew I had voltage. I had the switch part removed (1 screw easy) got two little jumper wires and stuck them in 1 and 3 prong carefullly (not to touch each other as I assume that would blow the fuse) and touched the other ends of the wires to the 2 prongs of the motor jack ... the motor ran ( going down) so I flip flopped the wires and the motor ran ( going up) OK, so now I know theres power and the motor isnt the problem. So I grab the switch I had removed (which has both a lever on top and a smaller switch on the side) I put meter on continuity and touched each of the prongs from the wire harness on the switch to the 2 prongs that contact the motor when the switch is plugged back in. depending on which postition you had the smaller switch in ... I could only get 1 prong to read to the motor stab from the wiring harness of the switch. IF I switched the smaller switch of the switch ... the wire would quit reading continuity. I could only get one prong to do anything differently when pushing the spring lever switch or flipping the smaller switch ... it seemed to me that switch wasn't doing what it was supposed to be doing ( I had two switches) the original and the used one I bought on EBAY. Neither seamed right. So I went back to Ebay and bought a brand new switch. I think $35 ... not the entire motor assembly like I did the first time. Put the new switch on and progress ... it started working kinda ... it pulled the trunk closed but then the latch wouldn't come back up after I popped trunk open. I figured I had'nt placed the smaller switch in the correct place when I installed it ... the smaller switch has to be between the 2 "trips" on the pull down latch for it to work right. So when you install this new switch the latch needs to be in a more UP position for you to get it in there correctly. So again I took my 2 jumper wires and touched the hot and ground from the harness straight to the motor to move it upwards ... if it goes down ... reverse the two wires ... so I moved the latch up ... then installed the switch with the smaller switch BETWEEN the two "trips" on the latch. Closed the trunk ... pulled down great ... opened the trunk ... the latch returned to the upper position where it belonged ... LONG STORY SHORT ... in my case ... IT WAS THE SWITCH !!! beware of used parts on Ebay. * I think it broke when my muscle bound cousin was putting something in my trunk at a wedding ... he didn't know it had a trunk pull down motor so he was slamming the damned thing trying to get it to close ... I was in drivers seat screaming NO but he couldn't hear me * * try not to touch the two wires directly to the motor after it has reached either full up or full down ... the wires will probably smoke and you may blow the fuse. AS soon as full up or down remove them.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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19,658 Posts
I'm new here for posting so sorry if this is repetitive or already covered. Since my Deville has started the overheating issue I have been kinda involved in it lately. The trunk pull down hasn't worked in over 5 years. I messed with it then and ordered a replacement motor on EBAY , it didn't work either so I was thinking some complicated deal so I quit. Recently I returned to it with my multi meter. There are like 4 or 5 wires on the electric jack that go to it. I tested different combinations and 1 and 3 I believe read 12 volt ... if I reversed the leads it read -12 volts. So I knew I had voltage. I had the switch part removed (1 screw easy) got two little jumper wires and stuck them in 1 and 3 prong carefullly (not to touch each other as I assume that would blow the fuse) and touched the other ends of the wires to the 2 prongs of the motor jack ... the motor ran ( going down) so I flip flopped the wires and the motor ran ( going up) OK, so now I know theres power and the motor isnt the problem. So I grab the switch I had removed (which has both a lever on top and a smaller switch on the side) I put meter on continuity and touched each of the prongs from the wire harness on the switch to the 2 prongs that contact the motor when the switch is plugged back in. depending on which postition you had the smaller switch in ... I could only get 1 prong to read to the motor stab from the wiring harness of the switch. IF I switched the smaller switch of the switch ... the wire would quit reading continuity. I could only get one prong to do anything differently when pushing the spring lever switch or flipping the smaller switch ... it seemed to me that switch wasn't doing what it was supposed to be doing ( I had two switches) the original and the used one I bought on EBAY. Neither seamed right. So I went back to Ebay and bought a brand new switch. I think $35 ... not the entire motor assembly like I did the first time. Put the new switch on and progress ... it started working kinda ... it pulled the trunk closed but then the latch wouldn't come back up after I popped trunk open. I figured I had'nt placed the smaller switch in the correct place when I installed it ... the smaller switch has to be between the 2 "trips" on the pull down latch for it to work right. So when you install this new switch the latch needs to be in a more UP position for you to get it in there correctly. So again I took my 2 jumper wires and touched the hot and ground from the harness straight to the motor to move it upwards ... if it goes down ... reverse the two wires ... so I moved the latch up ... then installed the switch with the smaller switch BETWEEN the two "trips" on the latch. Closed the trunk ... pulled down great ... opened the trunk ... the latch returned to the upper position where it belonged ... LONG STORY SHORT ... in my case ... IT WAS THE SWITCH !!! beware of used parts on Ebay. * I think it broke when my muscle bound cousin was putting something in my trunk at a wedding ... he didn't know it had a trunk pull down motor so he was slamming the damned thing trying to get it to close ... I was in drivers seat screaming NO but he couldn't hear me * * try not to touch the two wires directly to the motor after it has reached either full up or full down ... the wires will probably smoke and you may blow the fuse. AS soon as full up or down remove them.
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YUP - 99 out 100 times - it's the switch -

you should take a stroll through the TechTips furum - LOTS of interesting stuff there -
 

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Super Moderator
2003 Deville Base
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5,035 Posts
Hope you get it working, If memory serves 1996 was the last year for auto pull down trunk.
 
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