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Discussion Starter #1
If you come across an ESV somewhere in the Midlantic region that is reasonable and seems like it's not beat to crap, let me know? Trying to spend less than $10k, or a lot less, heh.

I've been doing all of the internet car-site searches and a couple good candidates out there. Always interesting to see the used car peddler photos from a distance, only to see it in person and the "15 footer" mantra has been wholly prescribed. :)

Prefer the dark interior, exterior color not so picky. I can fix anything and have awesome tools (sort of Spicoli reference) and am favoring cosmetics over function.

Thank you for helping to scout!
 

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As long as you are ok with ~200k miles on the odometer, you shouldn't have too hard of a time finding a decent example.

Here's one in North Carolina for just under $10k.


Seat is a little beat up in this one, for $8,900 (Tennessee)


Not sure where you are located. If you are up north, might be harder to find a good older example locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
T
As long as you are ok with ~200k miles on the odometer, you shouldn't have too hard of a time finding a decent example.

Here's one in North Carolina for just under $10k.


Seat is a little beat up in this one, for $8,900 (Tennessee)


Not sure where you are located. If you are up north, might be harder to find a good older example locally.
Thanks for the help. Been trying to find something decent in the midlantic region. Though, it doesn't look like it'll happen. So, I expanded to a national search.

I found an ESV in the colors I'm looking for in the Orlando area... any enthusiasts want to volunteer to go see it for me? I'll make it worth your while.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Went to look at a couple within a 3 hour radius. First one was great cosmetically but too many WTF's to buy at the asking price... rear hatch would go half way up and freak out and then close... upper dash crack.. gauge cluster plexi had a small crack... rear seat motorized access busted for the driver side and barely worked for the pass side...and some jackazz thought it would be ok to attempt to overtighten the exhaust manifold bolts to fix mani leaks and snapped off a few heads. Told the dealer I'd buy it for $3k less given the level of wtf's. No go. Buyer beware. Will post the VIN when back at a computer.
 

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Some things to watch out for:
1. The early 2007s had AFM hardware but it was not activated. I think these are identifiable by the lack of a resonator on the front of the intake tube (late 07s have the resonator but no AFM garbage).
2. Rust: The bottom of the rear hatch is where the rust starts. Then the bottoms of the doors, then the spot on hte quarter panel right in front of the rear wheels behind the rear doors will perforate. Also, above the rear bumper cover on the quarter panel horizontal seam.
3. The rear exhaust manifold bolts will fail by about 150k, due to stress from the weight of the Y pipe hanging off the manifolds. They can be fixed in the vehicle by talking the front wheel well liners out, pulling the manifold, and MIG welding a nut onto the broken piece of bolt to unscrew it. Actually not too hard, doing from inside the wheelwell.
4. 2nd row bench is nice, very useful and more comfy for passengers.
5. Southern ESVs will have cracked seat leather and cracked dash from the heat, but that is far preferable to rotted trans cooler, power steering pump, fuel lines, and frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Some things to watch out for:
1. The early 2007s had AFM hardware but it was not activated. I think these are identifiable by the lack of a resonator on the front of the intake tube (late 07s have the resonator but no AFM garbage).
2. Rust: The bottom of the rear hatch is where the rust starts. Then the bottoms of the doors, then the spot on hte quarter panel right in front of the rear wheels behind the rear doors will perforate. Also, above the rear bumper cover on the quarter panel horizontal seam.
3. The rear exhaust manifold bolts will fail by about 150k, due to stress from the weight of the Y pipe hanging off the manifolds. They can be fixed in the vehicle by talking the front wheel well liners out, pulling the manifold, and MIG welding a nut onto the broken piece of bolt to unscrew it. Actually not too hard, doing from inside the wheelwell.
4. 2nd row bench is nice, very useful and more comfy for passengers.
5. Southern ESVs will have cracked seat leather and cracked dash from the heat, but that is far preferable to rotted trans cooler, power steering pump, fuel lines, and frame.
Thanks very much for the detail!

Tried to go see another one today that had some Alibaba rear taillight conversion to make it look like the later generation. Glad the dealer decided to take the day off and was a no show. No return phone call. No "sorry we weren't there"... their loss and my gain. This looks like a real hack-job.

576755
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Some things to watch out for:
1. The early 2007s had AFM hardware but it was not activated. I think these are identifiable by the lack of a resonator on the front of the intake tube (late 07s have the resonator but no AFM garbage).
2. Rust: The bottom of the rear hatch is where the rust starts. Then the bottoms of the doors, then the spot on hte quarter panel right in front of the rear wheels behind the rear doors will perforate. Also, above the rear bumper cover on the quarter panel horizontal seam.
3. The rear exhaust manifold bolts will fail by about 150k, due to stress from the weight of the Y pipe hanging off the manifolds. They can be fixed in the vehicle by talking the front wheel well liners out, pulling the manifold, and MIG welding a nut onto the broken piece of bolt to unscrew it. Actually not too hard, doing from inside the wheelwell.
4. 2nd row bench is nice, very useful and more comfy for passengers.
5. Southern ESVs will have cracked seat leather and cracked dash from the heat, but that is far preferable to rotted trans cooler, power steering pump, fuel lines, and frame.
Thank you thank you and thank you again...

1. Have not seen any with the AFM... all 2007's so far I've looked at.

2. Rust, YES, lots of rust. One that I want to put a deposit on has a pencil eraser head-size protrusion of rust in that area.

3. Recently learned that a company manufacturers a bracket that, with 2 bolts, bolts to the rear of the head. Then, this special bracket has a "set screw" that is tightened to push the manifold into the head. This is a real band-aid fix. If the rear bolt is fubared, all are bolts are fubared and the gasket has probably already started to deteriorate on other cylinders. Good news is that the one I want to put a deposit on has had the manifolds replaced (with heat shields!) and all new bolts. This is the only way to do it.

4. You don't like the captain's chairs in the rear? I'm also thinking of dog freedom. Though, maybe he'll ride all the way in the back all the time.

5. NE winters have been really harsh on the ESC's I've looked at. It's odd that cars typically do not have as much rot in the engine compartment.. but these big frame trucks seem to suck in the weather or something and become sponges for road grime. Every one I've looked at (other than one) has had exhaust manifold carnage and blithered metal pieces.

Also thanks for the heads up on the couple candidates. I'm finding it difficult to get others to do basic PPI's for me out of region. I'll gladly pay someone $100 or whatever for their time/driving/gas for doing a walk-around for me. There are quite a few details that are easily discernible-- even if the person is not mechanically inclined...

My basic list is:

1. Sit in the driver seat, are there any visible cracks in any plastics anywhere?

2. Photo of the driver's seat bolsters

3. Lights appear on the heated and cooled seat buttons when pressed?

4. Rear seat fold-down buttons actually cause the seats to fold forward?

5. Exterior - run finger on underside of all doors, rust?

6. Rear hatch opens and closes ok electrically? Any major door surface scratches on rear hatch from someone clobbering their garage door while both doors were open?

7. Wheels - visible chrome peeling? Minor or major?

8. TPMS warning error when truck started?

9. Close-up photo of exhaust manifold front bolts

10. Press the rear park assist button on and off. Does it flash or just turn off/on? Start truck and put it in reverse, camera pops up on display?

11. Tires - penny in tread, can you see the top of Lincoln's head or no? Does the truck have all 4 same tires?

12. Spare tire under truck?

13. Take a photo of rear lower shock area from under rear of truck if possible.

14. Sunroof operates?

15. Any water stains on any interior B/C pillar areas?

16. Manuals and books on board?

17. 2 sets of keys and fobs?

18. Exterior- Any noticeable dings or dents larger than a dime? Where?

19. Engine compartment - fuse cover in place driver side? Engine cover intact?

20. Under front/rear, any wet area on any diff or oil pan?

Call me when there!
 

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2010 was the first year AFM was enabled in the Escalade/GMC Denali. Hardware was there on the 07-09, but wasn't enabled in the ECM.

From Wikipedia:
The 2009 L92 was modified with Flex Fuel capability, becoming the L9H. In 2010, the L9H was further modified with Active Fuel Management, becoming the L94 (in the Cadillac Escalade and GMC Yukon Denali).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lucky me.. put a deposit on a pearl ESV last night at a Ford dealer. 123k miles. Exceptional shape above and beyond others that I've seen. Inspected for another year. Minor issues on the surface... oil pressure sending unit and an oil pan gasket are on the shortlist.

One thing that surprised me about this truck is the seat side bolsters are really nice. Also, the exterior is above average. There is one little smaller than a dime rust spot poking from under the paint at the same place in the photo earlier in this thread. Nothing to worry about there because the auto-start works. Ha

Chrome 22's are really nice and do not show the typical flaking, yet. Figure the truck is on its 3rd set of tires maybe and they will need to be replaced this year. Will need to find a shop with a mounting machine that can push/pull the tires off from the inner barrel side (not the spoke side). My fear is that if the tire bead is pulled off and up and over the spoke side that this will cause the chrome to crumble and fracture. Most other trucks I saw had wheels that were in semi-bad-state-of-chrome deterioration.

Good news is that someone took care of the truck.. even the TPMS sensors all report.

Nav disc doesn't work. Probably just needs the CD lens laser cleaned. Not worried about it.. Waze is your friend.

Dealer had replaced the exhaust manifolds with OEM parts. Super nice looking with the heat shields and everything. They did a nice job.

That's my story. New thread next probably on fixing nagging items. :)
 

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Nice! Since you live in the rust belt, you may want to look into getting the car coated in fluid film. I know shops can do that. The South Main Auto Channel on YouTube guy (Eric O) swears by the stuff, and has coated his Tundra. He did a video on it in 2017 or 2018, and a follow up about a year later.

Also, if you don't already have one, get one of those pressure washer brooms. You can use it under the truck to wash off a lot of the salt after driving around to delay damage from the corrosive salt.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yessir, have a lift and routinely use fluid film myself. It is pricey, but what a difference it makes. The sealing/lubrication properties are awesome plus it makes old suspension and frame parts look almost new!
 
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