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I have a 1994 STS seville with a 1997 N* Last month while driving down the highway I got the check engine light, and lost power. I pulled over to a carparts store and took the code the car gave me (I cant rember the code but it wasnt it) I took it to the dealer and they found a blown fuse on my passanger side fuel rail. (10amp) they didnt see anything wrong and replaced the fuse. Well that worked fine until this past weekend while on the highway again I blew another fuse. I pulled the car over and replaced but as soon as I started the car it blew again. I was 2:00 in th emorning and I ran out of 10 amp fuses so I put a 15 amp in and it worked fine and got me the rest of the way home over 120 miles. Does any one have a clue as to what this could be? I am thinking that maybe I have a fuel injector going bad, but I am not sure how to test tham or even if this is all wrong any help would be greatly appericated. Thanks Steve [email protected]
 

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florida33779 said:
I have a 1994 STS seville with a 1997 N* Last month while driving down the highway I got the check engine light, and lost power. I pulled over to a carparts store and took the code the car gave me (I cant rember the code but it wasnt it) I took it to the dealer and they found a blown fuse on my passanger side fuel rail. (10amp) they didnt see anything wrong and replaced the fuse. Well that worked fine until this past weekend while on the highway again I blew another fuse. I pulled the car over and replaced but as soon as I started the car it blew again. I was 2:00 in th emorning and I ran out of 10 amp fuses so I put a 15 amp in and it worked fine and got me the rest of the way home over 120 miles. Does any one have a clue as to what this could be? I am thinking that maybe I have a fuel injector going bad, but I am not sure how to test tham or even if this is all wrong any help would be greatly appericated. Thanks Steve [email protected]
Aside from carefully inspecting the wiring to look for possible shorts, the injectors can be tested for their resistance. If I can find what the acceptable values are, I'll post them. You would need an ohmmeter to do the test and it's as simple as unplugging each injector in the affected bank and checking the resistance across the two terminals. You could check them and replace whichever of them shows a much higher resistance value than the rest. Start the engine and listen to each injector individually. Maybe you can pinpoint it by finding the one that sounds different from the rest. A short length of rubber hose is good for this, or a mechanic's stethoscope. Some people put the tip of a screwdriver on the injector and then listen closely to the handle end for the noise transmitted through the screwdriver.

A few ideas anyway. Maybe someone else will chime in with better ideas or the resistance values you need. Let us know what you do and how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks I will try that The dealer did check the wires to the injectors but didnt say if he checked the injecters them selves
 
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