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92 eldorado
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My car starts but no spark, i checked the fuel lines and the fuel pump and it works. when i separate the the spark plug cable and start the car, i don't see any spark, then again there is a lot of rubber in between i don't know how close metal to metal has to be in order to see the spark but i try anyways. maybe a security issue or maybe is in the distributor cap. any ideas please??
I also checked all cables and they seem right.
 

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2010 DTS
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87,448 Posts
:yeah: Please update your profile to show what you are driving.


With the boot on the end of the plug wire you can't get close enough to see the spark. That's one hell of a gap to jump. You need to put a spark plug in the boot and ground the base of the plug to the engine somewhere. NOW you can see the spark jump the gap on the plug electrodes (if you have current).
 

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'94 Eldorado '83 Fleetwood
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223 Posts
Since You haven't told what engine you have I am going to make some assumptions based on the comment that you have a distributor. Also, I assume this happened all at once. One possibility is failure of the ignition coil. Another is failure of the points in your distributor or the condenser. Another is failure of the ignition module which is curved and lives in the distributor underneath the plate your points are mounted on. Also check your 12 volt power supply to your ignition and see if you have volts. I don't believe all your spark plugs or wires went bad all at once. It is possible you have failure of the distributor cap but that usually cause poor performance or backfire when they fail,.

Well that's all I got. Gud luk.
 

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2000 DHS
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535 Posts
Seems unlikely you are not getting spark without throwing P03xx codes too., Maybe should check your codes or look elsewhere for problem.
 

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92 eldorado
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
my bad the car is a 1992 eldorado, but the information was very helpfull thanks. appreciate your help. i keep you posted
 

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92 eldorado
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
well i try what ranger told me and there is a spark in the spark plug when you put it close to the engine . Do you think I should still replace the ignition coil or the ignition module if there is a spark?? And second question is where is the condenser?? is this the A/C condenser?? this is a 1992 El dorado.
thanks in advance.
 

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2010 DTS
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87,448 Posts
If you have spark at the plug, no need to change the coil. Condensers where used on the old breaker point distributors and where inside the distributor. They looked like the pic below. It's been a long time since I've had my head in a distributor, but I think they did away with condensers when they went to HEI ignition (which your car has).
 

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1992 Seville
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323 Posts
If your car turns over but won't start and you have verified that you do indeed have spark, then what you might try is to simply spray some starter fluid or carburetor cleaner down the throttle body and see if the car offers to start. If it does then you've narrowed your problem down to a fuel related one. You didn't say but do you have a check engine light on?
 

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92 eldorado
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Discussion Starter #11
No the check engine light is not on. I replace the fuel pump for a new one so I assume the fuel pressure is good. I try to start by poring a little gas in the throttle but no luck(which honestly i don,t know if it's the same as S. fluid) . These happened very sudden, there for i assume it was the fuel pump. But now that I realize it has spark and no need to change the coil, I don't know where to go from here,,, What about the ignition module??? if i have spark Do I have to change that too?? Or could the problem be somewhere between the fuel lines that is affecting the fuel pressure,i don't have a fuel pressure test kit and is very expensive to rent one in Miami. Where do I go from here???

Thanks in advance .
 

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2010 DTS
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Something is very wrong here. If you have spark, the engine should start and run briefly when you spray fuel into the TB. Sounds like we may be back to some sort of ignition problem.
 

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92 eldorado
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, Still don't know about the Ign. module but i guess if there is spark is Ok , all Thought i didn't replace the fuel filter :annoyed: (not enough cash for it) . ?Do you think it may be clogging the Fuel pressure???
Like i said, the pressure kit is very expensive here. but with a new pump it should be Ok.
So if it is the ignition? where else do you think i can check??
 

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1992 Eldo(RIP), 1975 LeSabre Cnvt, 2002 ETC ECS, 2009 CTS
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You may also want to check your under hood fuses, under the plastic cover on the drivers side. You may have a weak battery. I had my coil go bad just like that, mounted under the square cover in the center of the distributor cap. I still had a little spark, changed the coil and big spark. Just an idea.
 

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2010 DTS
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Yeah, Still don't know about the Ign. module but i guess if there is spark is Ok , all Thought i didn't replace the fuel filter :annoyed: (not enough cash for it) . ?Do you think it may be clogging the Fuel pressure???
Like i said, the pressure kit is very expensive here. but with a new pump it should be Ok.
So if it is the ignition? where else do you think i can check??
It's not the fuel filter. You bypassed that when you sprayed fuel down the TB. Fuel pressure gauges are not expensive. You could probably pick one up for $30 - $40, but it seems irrelevant. If it will not start when you spray fuel in the TB, that rules out fuel supply. You have fuel and you have ignition. The only thing left is compression and is the spark happening at the right time (timing).
 

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92 eldorado
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Ranger. I will have to consider that. Do you think it has something to do with a security issue?? when I got the car the little box on top of the engine (atmosphere sensor i think) the cables were missing in order to start the car i had to put them back on until i found the the right connector, and one of those times that i put them wrong the car will act that same way, there for i let me know those three cables where wrong; but after i got that problem fix that never happened again. So it makes me think something is preventing the car from starting ( maybe the computer ) The car was running fine, if the timing belt or chain, or the compression was about to go, do you think i would give some sort of symptoms before, instead of out of the blue?? Maybe there is a sensor I'm missing? What do you think about the Fuel Pressure regulator ? I guess I'm going to check it anyways, I remember reading something about finding gas on the nipple, maybe there's a sensor there blocking something when it goes bad.
Let me know what you think Thank you.
 

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1992 Seville
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323 Posts
Another thought - I don't know what your mechanical skills are but you could always remove the ignition module and take it to Auto Zone or one of the other auto stores and have it tested. However, I believe if your module was bad it should be throwing an error code, E12, and your check engine light would be on, and you wouldn't have any spark. Before I would do that, if you haven't already done so, check the condition of your distributor cap and rotor. Sometimes the rotor tip will get so corroded that very little current/voltage can get through. The gap on your plugs, for your car, should be around .060 in and if they haven't been changed in the life of the car chances are they're probably much wider than that now. If the plug that you used to check for spark was from another car and had a smaller gap, say .035 in, you might have enough power to jump that gap, and produce a spark, but not enough to jump the .060 or .065 gap that might actually exist on the plugs in your car.

Not sure if this makes any sense, but like I’d said just a thought!
 

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2010 DTS
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FPR is easy to check, but not your problem. That won't prevent it from starting. If it was a security issue, I think the security system disables either the fuel pump or ignition (I forget which), You say you have both fuel pressure and ignition. :noidea:
 

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92 eldorado
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Yes I have both ranger. I think Buickman72 is on to something, maybe I'm not be getting the spark big enough; he changed the coil and got a bigger spark. I checked the distributor cap and rotor like cctgene suggested and it looks a bit warp not too corroded, hey! do the gap in the plugs could change that drastic and sudden?? Well, is pay bill week for me so is gonna have to wait till next weekend to get a new coil. Maybe I need a distributor cap as well. Good thing about those parts is, that if that is not the solution, I can always return them.
I can't tell how old is that battery but it always shows more than 12 v so i guess is ok; I did disconnected it for hope of a computer reset kind a thing.
Thank you very much gentlemen I will keep you posted.
 

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1992 Seville
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323 Posts
No your spark plug gap would not change that suddenly nor would it be the cause of your instant engine failure. A badly corroded rotor, however, could result in a weak spark that at some point could no longer jump the plug gap and that would.

My suggestion to look at the condition of your distributor cap and rotor was because you said that you had spark and that the engine wouldn’t offer to start when you poured a little gas down the throttle body and you had no check engine light. As was said before, this seems to indicate that either the engine is out of time or the spark is not strong enough to jump your plug gap. If you do decide to replace the distributor cap make sure to replace the rotor as well

My own experience with coils is either they work or they don’t but other people experiences may be different.
 
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