front vibration
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Get to the boondocks and perform several consecutive aggressive stops from 60 mph. After a stop do not hold the brakes - drive away and do it again. Does the vibration lessen or go away? Pad resin deposits/hot spots on the rotors. No improvement is usually due to worn suspension/sway bar bushings or tires or alignment. Rotors don't "warp" - that's why they're machined from gray cast iron.
Get into these whitepapers and do some pad/rotor study. https://www.apcautotech.com/brands/centric-parts/stoptech
Get into these whitepapers and do some pad/rotor study. https://www.apcautotech.com/brands/centric-parts/stoptech
Maybe, and likely. BUT, a few things to ask. Hilly or long downgrade braking lately? A few 'lowspeed' hard stops might change it up if it glazed a little...maybe make it worse...a crapshoot.
A recent 'detail' where to much of 'something' was sprayed on the rotor(s) 1 or both sides, or through some road puddle of unknown stuff.
Mud/crud added or falling off from winter use or after a wash or good rain or a less than careful balance with junk in/not washed out of the wheel. A good balance includes washing/degreasing the inside of the wheels.
Wheel bearings 'sometimes' add to the deal, with the other variables, there is a lot to look for.
The dynamics of a wheel spinning, and slowed down from the center and offset, make some interesting situations.
GOOD TECHS will find it in less labor time than unneeded parts costs/labor.
Good shops will figure it out, others will throw new parts on till it works. Unfortunately, many times it is the owner that has to know what is wrong to avoid overcharge/unneeded parts.
I take it there is no vibration from 35-65-even to 80(the max here) with no braking.
"perform several consecutive aggressive stops from 60 mph. After a stop do not hold the brakes"
Exactly what I should have said re the 'possible glaze/unknown'.
Funny, I was schooled by a truck driver and a chauffeur/hire drivers, dad/granddad, feather it to a un-noticeable stop. Drink your coffee! Brakes last a loooong time typically, I see 100k often. Maybe not on the 'hotrods'.
Now my wife, not so much. She tests tires/shocks and coffee agility on every stop. Every.
Exactly what I should have said re the 'possible glaze/unknown'.
Funny, I was schooled by a truck driver and a chauffeur/hire drivers, dad/granddad, feather it to a un-noticeable stop. Drink your coffee! Brakes last a loooong time typically, I see 100k often. Maybe not on the 'hotrods'.
Now my wife, not so much. She tests tires/shocks and coffee agility on every stop. Every.
I had the same problem several years ago, only at a slower speed. Long story short, it turned out to be corrosion on the REAR calipers. I SWORE it was in the front end. New rear calipers solved the problem. Bottom line, don't assume it's in the front.
Really like hearing all the potentials. Some are real stumpers, some just result from years/conditions/come up with little warning.
Under normal driving, they won't warp, yet, I have warped 2 times
- 92 Fleetwood, caliper got stuck, heated up the rotor till glowing. Stuck on the rotor, rotor cooled down at different rates and warped.
-91 Celica, racing down a mountain (yes, stoopid and influenced). Smoked both the fronts, warped.
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