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2003 Escalade
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540 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have had the front passenger driving light blow out on me three times now. At first I though it just blew. Next I replaced it and it blew again. Figured it was a two pack could be human error. There is a voltage spike or something. I have a little discoloration on the lamp housing like it is getting hot. Any suggestions would be great.
 

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1992 STS / 2005 MB G500 / 2003 STS / 2006 XLR-V
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11,694 Posts
What bulb are you using, the DRL does run a higher voltage. Sylvania makes a bulb that is SPECIFICALLY for DRL applications on the GM Full Size trucks. The model is 4114LL or just 4114, the others may fit, but they wont last.

Measure the voltage at the connector and make sure its not more than 13-14v.
 

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2003 Escalade EXT
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106 Posts
I have had the front passenger driving light blow out on me three times now. At first I though it just blew. Next I replaced it and it blew again. Figured it was a two pack could be human error. There is a voltage spike or something. I have a little discoloration on the lamp housing like it is getting hot. Any suggestions would be great.
I started a post a little bit ago about swapping my DRL's to LED. The GMT800 body style from GM has a voltage issue on the DRL circuit. They operate at 14Vdc instead of the standard 12Vdc. When I tested mine, I measured 14.53Vdc. The old standard 3157LL bulbs will not last as long as most people would like so GM has switched to the 4114K bulb which is a bulb designed to operate at 14Vdc. I wanted amber though, so I inserted a 15 Ohm resistor in series with the bulbs and ended up with 11.89Vdc at the DRL sockets. My LED's are installed now and look great. Been meaning to get a new pic up, but haven't had time and light to do right. Maybe tomorrow.
 

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2003 Escalade
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540 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I checked out what i put in the lamp and it was the 4114k bulb. There is a voltage spike or something. Any help is appreciated.
 

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2003 Escalade EXT
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106 Posts
I checked out what i put in the lamp and it was the 4114k bulb. There is a voltage spike or something. Any help is appreciated.
It really could be one of a few issues. Some things you shoudl consider are:

- Is the buld truly blown, or is it simply getting to a point where contact is not being made and the bulb doesn't light. DRL's run all the time and generate heat all the time. The hotter it gets, the more the plastic sockets and bulb parts will tend to melt and deform. That's only a possibility.

- The only way to know for sure about voltage is to measure it. When I measured mine I noticed 14.56Vdc after initial startup and watched it settle to around 14.06 or 13.97Vdc after idling for a minute or so. But who knows what happens during driving conditions. I wasn't prepared to sit in the engine compartment while someone drove me around.

- You could measure both sides, I didn't notice a significant difference from one side to the other, but maybe yours does.

- realisitcally, the voltage would have to surge by 5-10% before it would actually affect the bulb negatively. Putting a 12V bulb in a 14V circuit is a voltage difference of 2V or almost 17%. Putting a 14V bulb in a 14.5V circuit is only 0.5V or 3.6%. But if you have 15-15.5V you may have a problem.

- There may be wiring issues in the circuit that is causing intermittent connections, or high currents etc.
 
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