[badcadi96]

Changing out my brake pads and rotors today hopefully if my parts arrive early enough in the day. Any advice would be appreciated or help. I have a 2014 Cadillac ATS with front Brembo Calipers & an electronic parking brake. I've never done the brakes for my Cadillac before but I used to do them on my Nissan before but didn't have to deal with so much tech lol.

 

[SaveTheManuals]

YouTube is your friend.

There are a couple more too. Brembo's are easy, you don't even have to take off the caliper.

 

[badcadi96]

YouTube is your friend.

There are a couple more too. Brembo's are easy, you don't even have to take off the caliper.

Appreciate it. I will take a look at some of these. The ones I saw were by a different guy. Hoping these are more in depth.

 

[BoltonCaddy]

It's pretty straightforward if you've done rotor/pad replacements before - just make sure the e-brake is off. My rear rotors were hard to remove because of the e-brake shoes (I guess they needed adjusting) but eventually got them off after trying for a while. Also had a seized slider and bad caliper (which probably didn't help the e-brake issue). Rest of the job was easy.

 

[badcadi96]

It's pretty straightforward if you've done rotor/pad replacements before - just make sure the e-brake is off. My rear rotors were hard to remove because of the e-brake shoes (I guess they needed adjusting) but eventually got them off after trying for a while. Also had a seized slider and bad caliper (which probably didn't help the e-brake issue). Rest of the job was easy.

good now i just wait for my parts to get here lol Mr Bean Waiting GIF - MrBean Waiting StillWaiting - Discover & Share GIFs

 

[ZeGerman]

I think the Brembo front brakes are pretty thankful to handle. I just removed the rotors to install longer wheel studs a couple of days ago.

So the first video does not show the Brembo brakes. This is what you need:

Just take care that you have the right torque data for each screw
Have fun and do not hesitate to ask questions

 

[badcadi96]

Any ideas on how to deal with this

 

[rand49er]

View attachment 587888

Any ideas on how to deal with this

Yikes!

Maybe grind an "X" using a Dremel cutoff wheel then use a Phillips screwdriver to remove. I'm sure some experienced mechanics know precisely what to do. Make sure you get a new one to replace this one (duh).

 

[ZeGerman]

Oh :-/

1.) Try a screw extractor with a left-hand thread.
2.) Weld a washer on that head.
3.) Drill it out and use a thread tap to cut a new thread.
4.) Hammer a bigger torx in the head (could damage the wheel bearing).

Some say that you will need that screw at all costs, other that it is not necessary and just an assembly aid.

5.) That option would mean ... drill the head out and leave the thread where it is.

Well ... the rotor is fixed and centered with the wheel studs and washers. But without that screw it is possible that the rotor will get a bit loose and wobbling when dismounting the tire. And this could make small room for dirt or rust flakes which results in a non-circular running wheel.


For the next ones use some WD40 and worked slowly but surely. Turn the screw a bit clockwise to loose and then a bit anti-clockwise and so on and so on. This could help to make the thread "cleaner".

Imagine ... the last tip of the screw is on the other side of the rotor and is full of rust, rust, rust and rust.

And as I can see all the rust on the hub, do not forget to remove all that rust to make the surface even as possible. Afterwards use some brake grease between hub and rotor.

 

[SaveTheManuals]

Ahhhh rotor screws...we meet again.

You're going to need a very small cutoff wheel to cut slits in that. Then I would soak it with PB Blaster and let it sit a bit. Tap the hub a few times with a hammer, then take an impact screwdriver and have at it. If that doesn't work, you could drill it out. I've had to drill out a few of these things. Get a good corded drill, some titanium bits, and a little oil to dip the bit in to keep it cool. Go from large to small. It's not fun, but you'll get there.

If you replace with a new rotor screw, put some antiseize on it for sure so it's easier next time.

 

[badcadi96]

I ended up drilling the bolt off completely. After about 3 hours and learning how brembo calipers are I think I can definitely do them in half the time next time. Now All I have left to do are my rear brakes & rotors.

 

[CSIMME01]

View attachment 587888

Any ideas on how to deal with this

Drill it out using a 6 or 6.5mm drill bit. You just need to go deep enough to get the bolt head to come off.
You dont need to remove the bolt thats left in the threaded hole. You don't need to replace it either. If the bolt sticks out you just need to put the new rotor on so the hole in the rotor is aligned with the stud. That fastener is only there to keep the rotor on the vehicle while it is on the production line. The suspension, including the rotors is put on the vehicle early in the build. The wheels are put on near the end. That bolt keeps the rotor from falling off as the vehicle travels down the line. Often times the rotors are installed on the suspension or rear axle at another plant and shipped as a unit to the car plant. Again, those fastners keep the rotor from falling off during transport. A M5 bolt as nothing compared to the wheel lugs and the clamping force of the wheel. Also, as you have learned, it can rust in place. I take them off and throw them away the first time I remove the wheels so they can't get rusty and cause problems.

 

[rmfats]

That screw is a reminder of the German engineering that went into the ATS steering and suspension. Take the tire off of a Mercedes and you will see this, as the screw keeps everything aligned while the lug bolts are installed. When lugs are installed into the hub this screw isn't needed.