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2000 Seville SLS
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I posted awhile ago asking for help with the swirls and scratches in my car's finish. To help people remember what the paint looked like before:







Products used: Porter Cable 7336 random orbital polisher, Four Star clay bar & Four Star clay lubricant, Menzerna Intensive Polish, Menzerna Nano Polish, CCS foam polishing pads, Cobra Microfiber towels and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. I purchased some P31s carnauba wax but have not applied it yet. The pictures are the final results of everything except the wax.

All swirls are now gone, as are 80% of the major clearcoat scratches. Except for a few rock chips and fairly deep scratches, the paint looks brand new. It's just absolute glass. In the pictures I only have the hood done, as I haven't had time to get the whole car done.

The after pictures:













 

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1979 Phaeton Coupe, 1990 Brougham d'Elegance 5.7 liter
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4,416 Posts
Wow! Nice work!

That's a beautiful car, I love the black on black with a canvas top.
 

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06 CTS-V
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157 Posts
Looks so great. How long did it take you?

Dont forget to stay away from the car washes that beat the dirt off your car or you will have to go through all that work again.
 

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2000 Seville SLS
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the compliments guys...

capt. dan- I got home from work at about 3 in the afternoon and immediately started washing and prepping it (with the knowledge that my Porter Cable was scheduled for delivery at around 5:00 that day). I just finished claying the hood as UPS dropped the box off, then I just got it out and immediately started working on. After I had done all the polishing, cleaning, sealing, it was around 10pm. Keep in mind, though, that this was my first time EVER doing something like this, so when I just did my trunk lid the other day it took a considerably less amount of time.

It's a bitch because I need to wait for some bodywork (scheduled for this week thurs & friday) before I can do certain sections. Bad ding on the top of the rear fender, rust on the inside of the rear passenger door, huge rock chip on a-pillar, key scratches on passenger mirror... the previous owner also seems to have ****ed something up when the car was jacked, as on the drivers side, that metal tab under the car right behind the front wheel was bent 90 degrees as opposed to the one on the pass. side, and the fender section behind the front wheel bulges out almost 1". I'm a pretty strong guy, 6' 180# football player, and there's no way in shit that I can bend it back in. It just looks funny. In a bad way.
 

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114 Posts
Very impressed!

I have some hard water spots from underground sprinklers, and have tried washing it with CLR, Orange Car Wash, Mg's Clay Bar, Mg's Fine Cut Polish, and some Perfect Auto Finish Paint Cleaner.
Orbital and highspeed buffers.

the outline of each waterspot still remains under lights.

Any suggestions from you based on what you used? You appear to have had more sctraches, and they came out great. Were you dealing with or have you dealt with waterspotting?
Vehicle- 1979 Eldo. Dark Brown paint.

Any suggestions is appreciated.
 

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2000 Seville SLS
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have not had to deal directly with waterspotting, but I could probably almost guarantee, almost, that Menzerna Super Intensive polish would work. I believe it's $30 at autogeek.net

I used Intensive Polish for the hard work on my paint (I ordered $25 Intensive polish and $50 nano polish, I was told that if you use something with the cut power of super intensive or intensive, that I would need to follow up with something like nano polish. Everybody that's tried nano polish swears by it to be the greatest "final polish" of all time, but I find it a bit overrated, and not worth $50)

If the I.P. did my paint fine, Super Intensive should really help your paint, especially if you have a rotary


It's my understand that these German Menzerna polishes are like the best polish you can get your hands on... A lot of people like XMT too, but I highly suggest trying Menz. If S.I.P. and a rotary can't do the trick, nothing can (other than maybe a heavy cutting compound or wetsanding the paint, which I don't think you want to get into, but maybe I'm wrong)
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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:thumbsup: Nice job, K38........For all the above questions, go to www.autogeek.net and either order their DVD or download their detailing tips. It appears that K38 uses autogeek/Pinnacle/Menzerna/XMT/Poorboy/Porter-Cable/whatever products, all available from the above site. (XMT #2 swirl remover makes even bad waterspots disappear.......go easy with a CCS orange and then a gray pad...ON AN ORBITAL POLISHER !!!!)
 
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