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Final Wildwhl Lowering specs.

1567 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  wildwhl
ladies and gents -

I've tried just about every combination of ride height available with the Nivomat mod, rear springs with 1/4, 1/3, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 of a coil cut off (Nivomats adjusted accordingly) and the front shocks at -3/8, -1/2, -3/4, -7/8, -1.00, -1.25. The shocks in question are FG2's.

You're probably wondering, "why the hell would you play with all these different settings?". Quite frankly, to save each of you the hassle. You're also thinking that my front shocks must look like swiss cheese - nope - only two grooves at -1.00" and -1.25" in my set - I've used delrin spacers to do the rest :D

This is my final verdict, and I'm not going to list ride height numbers as different cars seem to have different results.

Front - either the -.625 or -.75 position is the best. Absolutely no bounce. Easy to achieve a performance alignment. Somewhere around a 1.00" drop. I'm at -.625" and I believe I've netted just shy of 1". Prior to this I was running at -.875" and loved the look, the ride was a little rougher than where I am now, but I just kept scraping the front at some of my normal parking places :banghead:. I think most will find right around 1/2 to 5/8" lower on the perch will be perfect.

Rear - 1/2 coil with .9" lower top Nivomat perch. It is perfect for me. Nice and tight, no bounce, and a very slight rake when combined with anything over .5" lower perch in the front.

Do I have a formal writeup yet?


I'm lucky to have time to write this post - much less get these things done.

I know there are still some that don't approve of this approach - and they are welcome to $pend their ca$h on Eibach$ and $port $hock$ for a too low ride and, IMHO (I've driven an Eibach/sport shock setup at 8/10's) reduced handling from stock. This mod doesn't seem to overly affect handling, though it does change it a little.

WW out...and yes, wheel hop is still insane - but so is the 7.5 psi of boost :stirpot:
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You certainly are busy researching the lowering issue! You Da Man!

I also installed your Delrin shims today in the front. As you recall I've got a CTS Lux-Sport that I put V shocks/struts and Eibachs on (spec'ed at -1.2" F, -1.2" R). I installed the 6mm delrin shims in front, which netted me about -0.8". In the rear I did the nivomat spacers, which netted -1.1". My car sits lower and level, now, and handles MUCH better.

The CTS Eibachs are rated at 68N/mm front and 68N/mm rear, which is within 2-3% of the stock V rates of 70N/mm, so it's a perfect match with the V shocks/struts. Incidentally, the regular CTS shocks and struts are very different from the Vs. In the rear, the rubber spacer that we remove is integral to the pillow top mount and plastic shock cover. It can't be removed without some serious cutting. The fronts are very wimpy looking compared to the V's.

I do have a slight 'clunk' in the rear over small bumps, like a loose shock, but I know they're all torqued to spec. The only thing I can figure is you sent four delrin and four rubber spacers for the shock top. I installed two of each on the top of the mount. I think the rubber ones are compressing during rebound, leaving a very small gap under the pillow top mount, which slams close upon the next compression when the wheel loads the spring up. The solution, I think would be to have four delrin spacers on top, and possibly a thin rubber one under the pillow top mount, to keep any noise from being emitted.

In the front, the CTS lower spring mount is bent to accommodate the spring tail and welded in place, unlike the flat V base with it's c-clip and groove. The shims went on perfectly to the V struts, and preload it perfectly.

I'll be posting pics of the shocks and before and after shots of the car tomorrow afternoon, over on the CTS forum.

Let me know when you get the Hotchkis sway bars and need to unload your stockers. :lildevil:
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Ody -

THe clunk is precisely what you're thinking. Do you have any rubber spacers left that you could add above or below the mount?

Hopefuly I will have a write up done this week. I took lots of pictures when I lowered my car but just haven't had the time to write it up yet...
wildwhl said:
THe clunk is precisely what you're thinking. Do you have any rubber spacers left that you could add above or below the mount?
I have a few rubber ones with smaller center holes that I should try. I'll open up the center holes to slide all the way onto the shaft. Maybe one below and one more above the mount. Next weekend I'll pull the rears and try it. Even if it raises the rear a tenth or two, I'm OK with it. It sits pretty level now, and a little rake would be nice. Thanks!
Ody -

Even if you put one of the small ones on each side below the mount, you'll unlikely see a difference in ride height. The "clunk" you hear is because the mount isn't tight enough between the spacers used above and below it. Just add to it and retorque the bolt - you'll be in good shape.

Also double check the shock mount bolts - top and bottom. I had a similar sound and realized I hadn't tightened one of the two top bolts.

Thanks for doing all this work for us! We're all benefiting from the knowledge, even those who choose a different path.
wildwhl is a suspension expert.
1MEANV said:
wildwhl is a suspension expert.

I was rereading this due to some current research :shhh: I'm doing and I hadn't seen this before.

I take offense to this, 1MEANV.

Ex = something that has been

(s)pert = what drips down my leg after taking a piss :thepan:

Just ordered the Hotchkis bars today. The perfect V is only a hood away :cool2:
:bigroll: Wildwhl,
Are you still able to supply the shims/spacers for lowering? If you are I'd appreciate knowing if you're now selling them or still providing to those of us "in need".
Second question has to do with the FE4 struts up front; on my 2005 they appear to have the welded lower spring perch as referenced on normal CTS suspension. Is the snap ring solution exclusive to the FG2's?

Thanks, rjcad
I still have spacer kits - a couple I believe. If not I can cut some real quick. Email me at [email protected] for these.

The front V struts - whether FE4 or FG2 - have a snap ring and groove. You can't see them unless you take the assembly apart. Do you actually see a welded bead?

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