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'91 Sedan deVille
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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy folks,

I'm pretty new here, just bought my first Cadillac a few days ago and am really getting along good with her. She had 78000 and only one error code (E91). Owned by an elderly couple to boot!

Anyways, I'm wondering what I need to do in order to fix my E91 error cause sometimes she doesn't wanna start on the first (or tenth!) time I try to cranker. Sometimes she'll start right up no problems, other times it takes some jiggling from P to N and such.

Another thing I'm wondering is what is the best oil I can put in this 4.9 liter. I live in Texas and it's summer so some good, quality oil is a must for me.

Thanks for the help all and I'll get some pictures of her up soon. I'll probably have a few more questions over the coming weeks!
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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87,119 Posts
P091 (E091) .................. PRNDL Switch Problem (transaxle range switch problem)
Most likely a bad switch. There is a procedure to adjust it in the FSM by Helm Inc. If you are going to do your own wrench bending then one would be invaluable (NOT Haynes or Chiltons). Ebay is your friend.

Oil is like women, whiskey and cigars. Everyone has his favorite. No one is "better" than the other. Use what turns you on.
 

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1990 350 Brougham (The cruiser), 1988 Mark VII LSC (The DD)
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5,545 Posts
Just don't use store brand oil, that stuff is trash and is only fit for a lawnmower. I use Valvoline because it is the cheapest around here and they are the only ones smart enough to put "Conventional oil" in large letters on the front. I HATE having to hunt around the jug looking for what type of oil it is.
 

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1998 Seville STS / 2013 Chevrolet Impala
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1,889 Posts
I use Quaker State Q full synthetic 10W-30 in my car. It's fine. Everything's fine. :lol:

Living in a warmer area, you could actually used straight weight SAE 30w, which believe it or not provides better lubrication then multi-weight oil, because the viscosity index improvers in multi-weight are not oil. So a quart of 30w actually has more total lubricant in it then a quart of 10w-30.


Still, if you just want a versatile oil that is good all across the board, use 10w-30.

Remember, the use of 10w-40 is not recommended :D
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Just don't use store brand oil, that stuff is trash and is only fit for a lawnmower. I use Valvoline because it is the cheapest around here and they are the only ones smart enough to put "Conventional oil" in large letters on the front. I HATE having to hunt around the jug looking for what type of oil it is.
Does that include Walmart SuperTech? That's what I use and it is actually rated quite highly. Actually ANY oil will do the job just fine.
 

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1998 Seville STS / 2013 Chevrolet Impala
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1,889 Posts
I like SuperTech, we use it in all of our other cars besides mine. Price per quart is pretty hard to beat too.
 

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'91 Sedan deVille
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Wow thanks for the responses everyone!

I'm just gonna give her some full synthetic 10w-30 to drink on for awhile and see how she likes that. I've never owned a NA gasoline engine car before, all turbo-diesels for me, so I'm a bit biased towards synthetic oil.

I found a 1991 Deville shop manual on Ebay I'm probably gonna grab if my other sources of information don't come through for me. I'm by no means a mechanic, but I'll feel a lot better having it than not!

And as promised, here's some pictures:













What can anyone tell me about this PAINT?! Also how to go about fixin' some of her blemishes :(

The "Sedan DeVille" lettering is easy to find, maybe not the 2 wheel centers I need tho!

Any suggestions for the rear plastic paint problem? Also where to find some of her chrome trim around the fender wells?

Thanks again and hope you like her :)
 

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1990 350 Brougham (The cruiser), 1988 Mark VII LSC (The DD)
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5,545 Posts
We don't sell that at my Wal-Mart so I don't know. I am talking like Meijer brand oil. We use it in the lawnmowers and tractors because it is cheap and you have to change the oil every month anyway (they mow 10 acres of grass a week).
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Somebody (maybe a major oil company) has to bottle that Meijer brand oil. Don't assume that it is trash just because it is not a brand name without doing some research on it. It may turn out to be great oil at a very good price. Exactly the case with Walmarts Super Tech (which many people will write off as trash just because it is Walmart brand).
 

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'91 Sedan deVille
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hey everyone thanks for the responses.

See I've never owned any NA gasoline engine cars before, all turbo-diesels for me. That being said, she will be quite the learning curve :)

I found a shop manual on ebay for 50 bucks which is cool.

Here's some pics, hope yall like her, would really like some more info on the PAINT of this vehicle. Also, is there a good place to find some parts for her to start fixin' a few of her blemishes, such as chrome trim around the fenders or some wheel centers?

Thanks for the help everyone
 

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1992 Sedan Deville, 1984 Lincoln Town Car
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759 Posts
OO-la-la! Very purdy! Especially the interior. My beloved is that same shade of white but all the emblems are gold. Interior is blue but I like your white better. :thumbsup:
 

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1990 350 Brougham (The cruiser), 1988 Mark VII LSC (The DD)
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Where do you live that all you have ever driven is diesels?
 

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'93 Cadillac 60 Special; '03 Lincoln TownCar Limited ED
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OO-la-la! Very purdy! Especially the interior. My beloved is that same shade of white but all the emblems are gold. Interior is blue but I like your white better. :thumbsup:
His interior is yellow! All of the white leather interiors had either deep red or medium blue carpeting, dash panel, rear pkg. shelf, steering wheel, horn pad and steering coulmn. White interior was therefore limited to cars with an exterior paint color of either white, or a blue or a red/burgundy/maroon exterior.
 

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'91 Sedan deVille
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Discussion Starter #17
OO-la-la! Very purdy! Especially the interior. My beloved is that same shade of white but all the emblems are gold. Interior is blue but I like your white better.
Thanks for the compliments oh her AMEN! Yea I couldn't pass her up when I seen her. Always wanted me a nice Cadillac to cruise around in and she fit the bill quite nicely I'd say :rolleyes: Hopefully I can find all the stuff I want to get her exterior lookin' clean again. Interior to-do is very minimal, all the lights work except the ones by the rearview, headliner is flawless, leather is all good. I'm just gonna focus on her exterior and motor for now. Need to do some more research into performance upgrades, especially this being my first gas guzzler. Any tips/suggestions?

Where do you live that all you have ever driven is diesels?
I live in beautiful East Texas, bout 60-70 miles southeast of Dallas out in the country. My previous cars have been a 92 VW Jetta TDI, 06 Jetta TDI and now my Caddy. The 92 was a hand-me-down and was put in the shed around 400,000 miles! She'll still start up and run great, but she isn't exactly road worthy anymore. Averaged about 45-50 MPG too, great little cars those TDI's...just give em some full-synthetic every 20-30k and minor maintenance and they'll run forever!
 

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1990 DeVille
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181 Posts
Your new car looks terrific - congratulations! Some comments and suggestions...

Ranger is right: everyone has his own opinion regarding oil, and the studies I've read indicate that it really doesn't matter. Pick any major brand that satisfies you, but change it and the filter every 5,000 miles or as suggested by GM. Unless you drive a tank in the Sahara, there is no advantage to more frequent oil changes.

Depending on your camera, the color of the car might be 8554. Look at the plastic cover over the spare tire, and see if the bottom line has that sequence of digits in it. If it's 8554, Dupli-Color 338 is an excellent match for a non-oxidized surface.

Since jiggling and fooling with the selector gets the car started, your P091 (E091) code is probably fixable with adjustment, as Ranger suggested.

Do not get tempted to "flush" the transmission - a simple drain and fluid replacement (new filter and gasket) will do the job. However, you might want to replace the fluid in the brakes and power steering systems. It's easy, too.

Using the Prestone kit and procedure, flush the cooling system and then refill with simple coolant in the correct proportion.

Pull the simple plate (behind the OPEN lever) on each interior door panel, and lightly lube every reachable moving part in the door lock mechanisms. A little WD40 goes a long way toward restoring the lubricity of the original lubricant.

Drive with an assistant, and using a short length of garden hose find the source of every squeak and rattle - and fix it. "Silentizing" an old car goes a long way toward making it feel new.

Spend some time bent over the hood and carefully inspect all vacuum lines, hoses, belts, mating surfaces (where two pieces of metal come together), etc. Look for cracking, checking, leakage, etc. Inspect the ignition leads (does that car have individual transformers?) for cracking, burning, evidence of leakage, etc. Then, check torque on top and bottom.

While under the car look for broken exhaust system hangers, leaks (tranny and engine pans, PS rack, brakes, exhaust path, etc.), mechanical breakages, and the horrible evidence of a car that's been welded together from two wrecks. Even elderly couples sometimes sell such things, and often don't even know that's what they're selling.

On any old car that you intend to keep, it's a good idea to separate every reachable electrical connection throughout the car, treat with Deoxit (look it up), and reassemble.

Remove, clean, and replace the cables connecting the battery to ground and to the starter (and to the fuse box). Remove and clean the cable that grounds the engine to the chassis - it's usually flat and woven.

Check alignment on all four wheels: tires will give you evidence of a problem. And, are the struts ok? They're cheap and easy, and even electronic struts can be replaced with inexpensive non-electronic parts with little detectable difference in ride. Do NOT buy Bilstein/Koni/$$$ - stick with simple Monroe, Gabriel, etc. at a third the cost.

You ask about performance enhancements, and describe your car as a gas-guzzler. Do not expect that anyone can improve significantly/safely over the GM engineers who developed the car. Just drive it moderately, and you'll get something in the 20s. In the 1,500 miles since getting my car, average has been 22.1.

By the way, in my "new" 1990 DeVille with 22,000 (!!!) miles, I did all of the above, then clayed the exterior and hyperdetailed everything. I also replaced the original Vogue tires (cracked and dangerous), and then installed a radio with a more modern one that includes a USB port (for MP3s) and Bluetooth. It's wonderful to get phone calls over the car's audio system...

Phew!
Now, you and I can drive our lovely DeVilles for another 150,000 miles.
 

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'91 Sedan deVille
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Discussion Starter #19
Is that interior yellow? I do appreciate rare "dare to be different" colors.
Yep the interior is a light yellow (I prefer to call it cream ;)), I'll try to get a better pic of the color it does look too white in the pics. Does anyone know if this was a factory option or what? I'm about to go look for her paint code number...
 

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'91 Sedan deVille
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Discussion Starter #20
WOW Notaguru, I appreciate all of that! That's a lot of great information that will be put to good use I assure you!

You were very close on the paint code, it's actually 9592, but the Texas sun here has probably made it closer to a 8554 over time! Might get a little sample of both colors to try and see what matches better.

There are some electrical issues with the car I've noticed that need to be worked out. If I want to keep the radio while driving I have to have it ON before I start the engine, and even then sometimes it'll cut out. If the car is already running, I can't just turn on the radio. It also has a very audible hiss that takes some volume to overcome, and if I adjust the 60Hz on the equalizer it will "pop" and shut it all off...very strange.

Here's a shot of the fuse box...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/8afd881b.jpg

I have no idea what that brown wire is for...could be something for this old dinosaur! :histeric:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/8efc00c4.jpg

I'm gonna pull all the fuses and see if any need to be replaced. It sounds like more than a fuse issue though...
 
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