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Thank you! That's helpful. You probably have the metal bezel, so I guess I'd have to figure out a way to get inside the plastic housing to clean the clearish grey plastic.

And I have to ask, do have the nav system and were you able to hook it up to that monitor or did you install another monitor?
 

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My filler panel is plastic not metal, only the bootlid part is metal, as for getting within the inside it might require a little heat to separate them possibly but without seeing one in the flesh i wouldn't like to say all the euro ones come without that as standard, never know there might be some more things to unscrew inside as most of the lights are held in by hex screws.
must separate though as they sell them on ebay! http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-up-Cadillac-CTS-rear-trunk-license-panel-clear-plastic-reverse-2004-decklid-/160870940296?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2574a7be88&vxp=mtr
 

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I would agree they must separate somehow...seeing as water gets inside it anytime I wash my car or it rains. It slowly drains out but that is what primarily leaves the ugly, grimy, water spotted look. It's not noticeable from more than 3 feet, but it IS the trunk and you DO notice it when you are lifting the trunk open.

I would assume a seal is broken but can't see it from simply looking at it. I would also assume this issue is one of the reasons Cadillac switched to the metal bezels. Looks cleaner, more high quality.
Personally I like the look of the darker bezel though...it nicely contrasts my white diamond paint. I wish the plastic was a blackish color rather than brownish clearish grey, actually.
 

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If you manage to separate it you could use a tinting spray then seal it up with some decent adhesive water resistant sealer
 

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this is the best online parts catalog that i've found so far (at least for the illustrations and part numbers)
it's basically GM's official parts catalog for dealers to set up and use as an online store

the relevant page you're looking for is: http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=376168&ukey_make=1023&ukey_model=14463&modelYear=2006&ukey_category=19512

looks like they don't sell the mufflers separately from the whole exhaust assembly (which is pretty expensive!)
the three differences look to be with or without NDB and with V92
i'd guess that you have NDB since it is a dual exhaust RPO code and it's more expensive (as you would expect the dual to be more expensive than the single)
 

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I'm looking for steps to replace oil cooler on 3.2L engine, and specifically how to get the oil cooler lines out of the way to pull the oil cooler out. Thanks, Ken.
 

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Was wondering how to "trim" the metal divider for the clear fog light mod, looks to flimsy for my disc sander.
Also .. mine has missing "chrome" .. has anyone found a "chrome paint" thanx
 

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2003 3.2 timing belt replacement info, here are some pics of the timing marks and "I didnt have to buy the $120 timing tool" i just set the cams one at a time by hand. when tearing down set the crank pulley at about 11:00 o'clock so there is adequate room in the cylinders for the cams to move without touching the valves on the pistons. then remove the belt, when installing the new belt use the lines on the new belt to help line up your marks. before you remove the crank pulley remove 1 (one) bolt and with "whiteout" paint the bolt hole all the way threw it so you know where the pulley was originally this is very important later. I had to remove both heads and install all the intake valves my self because no machine shop in my rural area wanted to touch them. and the theory that the lifters must go back in the same holes is false. I went and got a set of used lifters and installed them so witch hole did they belong in???? and all is fine. but when you are at the end of your repair and you had the heads off you must make a tool to pump oil in the oil galleys from the oil sending unit or you will have a lifter tick you cant get rid of!!!!! its not such a bad job to do but you must have the patients of god, just take your time work with a positive attitude and it will be ok. here is the timing mark on the crank everyone says is not there, notice the pointer on the oil pump? and the lines on the crank pulley? if you didnt paint the bolt hole you will not know witch place to put the crank pulley on at. therefore making the timing mark useless unless you know that the straight like on the timing belt crank gear points straight down. like i said i didnt buy the tool for this and it was no trouble to set the timing for me but if you are taking off the cam pulleys they can be 180 out of time so with your whiteout mark the sides of the cam gears on the side the pin in the end of the cams are. i wish i had taken more photos but these are the most important so you can make it through this with no troubles good luck anyone who is doing this can call me for info 270-617-8258 Tony..... also i bought my timing kit $77.35 from http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/cadillac/cts/engine_mechanical/timing_belt.html quality stuff and my head gasket kit $163.35 http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/cadillac/cts/engine_mechanical/head_gasket.html , valves from ebay $77.88 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cadillac-Saturn-3-0-3-0L-3-2-3-2L-DOHC-V6-Intake-Valves-Set-12-1997-2004-/190711620711?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year:2003|Make:Cadillac|Model:CTS&hash=item2c674c6467&vxp=mtr waterpump and thermostat/with housing from autozone. dont break the tube coming from the thermostat housing to the side of the head out of production from caddy, EXTREMELY HARD TO FIND !!!!!!! also notice that i numbered my cams and cam caps and kept them together at all times, i layed everything out in order of removal from the front of car to the rear so i knew how to do it in reverse order when going back together. B&M Oil/Trans cooler $71.67 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=b&m 70266 oil cooler
I RESEARCHED ALL THESE PRICES FOR 2 WEEKS AND THIS IS THE BEST PARTS FOR THE BEST PRICES and i bought my oil cooler lines at a semi truck parts house the were air-o-quip fittings and they were somewhat worried that the fittings were a lil big for my original trans rubber hoses but they worked 100% fine they also sold me the hose to make the extensions to the cooler i bought 3' but used about 2.5 ft, a lil extra is better than not enough. i spent about $850 in parts
 

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Hello, not sure if in correct forum location or not, computer idiot. I'm looking for help with problem with 06 CTS with 3.6 and 120k. Car has been well maintained and driven. New plugs at 100k. The major drivability problem I have with car (beside having to remove front end and adding a qt. of oil every 1000 miles). Every since 30-40k when I park the car for more than a couple of days and my first attempt to start the car it would stumble and misfire. Thinking that it was a battery problem I started putting a trickle charger on it, but the charger has not really helped beyond ruling out a battery/voltage problem. The misfire has gradually gotten worse. I just returned from a week long trip, before I left I put the car in the garage and put the trickle charger on a 2 month old battery. When I returned I checked battery voltage 12.95 volts. When I attemped to start car it started briefly but was stumblin and coughing very badly and shut off after a couple of seconds. On my next try the started did not sound normal at all and it would not start. I let it set for about 60 seconds and it fired up but with about the same results as first time, I gave it a few pats of gas and it gradually came to life, and it ran fine for the rest of the day. I replace the fuel and air intake filters about 3 months ago, and I alway turn the key on and pause a couple of seconds for the fuel pump to catch up before I hit starter. Any ideas or suggestions (except match in fuel tank) out there? Thanks Barry
 

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Is there a link to the "common issues" about wiper failure?
if you are having wiper troubles go to a junk yard and get a used wiper motor and put it on, that is the most cost effective way to repair. mine would come on by them selves all the time

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Hello, not sure if in correct forum location or not, computer idiot. I'm looking for help with problem with 06 CTS with 3.6 and 120k. Car has been well maintained and driven. New plugs at 100k. The major drivability problem I have with car (beside having to remove front end and adding a qt. of oil every 1000 miles). Every since 30-40k when I park the car for more than a couple of days and my first attempt to start the car it would stumble and misfire. Thinking that it was a battery problem I started putting a trickle charger on it, but the charger has not really helped beyond ruling out a battery/voltage problem. The misfire has gradually gotten worse. I just returned from a week long trip, before I left I put the car in the garage and put the trickle charger on a 2 month old battery. When I returned I checked battery voltage 12.95 volts. When I attemped to start car it started briefly but was stumblin and coughing very badly and shut off after a couple of seconds. On my next try the started did not sound normal at all and it would not start. I let it set for about 60 seconds and it fired up but with about the same results as first time, I gave it a few pats of gas and it gradually came to life, and it ran fine for the rest of the day. I replace the fuel and air intake filters about 3 months ago, and I alway turn the key on and pause a couple of seconds for the fuel pump to catch up before I hit starter. Any ideas or suggestions (except match in fuel tank) out there? Thanks Barry
.............. have you had the coils checked?
 

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I recently found this video on Youtube for changing spark plugs and coil packs and while there is a great write up on here already, this video does a pretty good job showing the process overall:

Note: I did not make this video... I just found it with my googlefu skills!

 
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