SOLVED!!
After hunting through the fuse box for any blown fuses, it finally occurred to me to test the 12V bar going into the fuse box. (I had previously been testing the terminal where the battery positive connects to the bar that goes to the fuse box.) Nothing. I check the continuity between the cable from the battery and the fuse box. Nothing. I grab a 13mm wrench and see how tight the bolt is. It wasn't tight. Tighten, tighten, tighten. Suddenly everything I had been turning on to test came to life, including the car alarm. It was solved. I grabbed the key fob, hit "unlock" and the alarm silenced!
Then I tried to do a first start of the new engine. Not as good. She cranked for 10-15 seconds, fired up, and died with a big puff of smoke from the engine compartment. (Not entirely unexpected or necessarily bad. I don't have the exhaust fully hooked up on the driver's side and not all of the PCV tubes are on the engine.) Further attempts consistently gave an immediate fire up for 1-2 seconds and dying with more smoke. The engine doesn't sputter at all, just dies cleanly like the ECU told it to.
I'm currently letting my BlueDriver do a full scan to see what codes might be causing the engine to stop. Back to my engine replacement thread!
After hunting through the fuse box for any blown fuses, it finally occurred to me to test the 12V bar going into the fuse box. (I had previously been testing the terminal where the battery positive connects to the bar that goes to the fuse box.) Nothing. I check the continuity between the cable from the battery and the fuse box. Nothing. I grab a 13mm wrench and see how tight the bolt is. It wasn't tight. Tighten, tighten, tighten. Suddenly everything I had been turning on to test came to life, including the car alarm. It was solved. I grabbed the key fob, hit "unlock" and the alarm silenced!
Then I tried to do a first start of the new engine. Not as good. She cranked for 10-15 seconds, fired up, and died with a big puff of smoke from the engine compartment. (Not entirely unexpected or necessarily bad. I don't have the exhaust fully hooked up on the driver's side and not all of the PCV tubes are on the engine.) Further attempts consistently gave an immediate fire up for 1-2 seconds and dying with more smoke. The engine doesn't sputter at all, just dies cleanly like the ECU told it to.
I'm currently letting my BlueDriver do a full scan to see what codes might be causing the engine to stop. Back to my engine replacement thread!