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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys, Back a few days before christmas, my Deville was diagnosed with a cracked block beneath one of the head bolts that screws into the block. After searching and saving I found an engine with 45K miles on it. Went through Dutchers Inc in NY, they have a great BBB rating. This engine has been inside on the shelf since 2000. I finally received the engine today.

My car: 1990 4.5 Sedan Deville (used engine came from a 90 coupe).

Day 1: Removed water pump and cleaned the backing plate as best I could with a rag and degreaser. Step 2 I will use steel wool to brush it totally clean, before I replace with a new gasket and waterpump.

http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i444/cristofo/

Since I have the engine with NO obstructions, I want to replace anything that could give me issues down the road. Any ideas on what to look for?

Thanks,
Chris
 

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2002 STS, 1991 Eldorado
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1,023 Posts
I don't see a distributor in that block, did it come with one? If not, how many miles on yours? When/if you pull it to swap, check the end play in the shaft and the drive gear. Too much end play is not good and bad drive gears can lead to seemingly monster issues later.

Pay close attention to the motor mounts when you swap the engines, the torque on these motors love to beat up the mounts; a full set can run about $250.

When you swap out the power steering pump, remove the supply line and change the rubber O-ring. Once you start wiggling that thing around, they have a tendency to leak 10 fold.

Check your alternator bearings for noise and end-play. Although it's not hard to change it later, it sure does suck after you put the whole thing together and you've got to go back under the hood...

Again, i don't know your mileage, and these things might be mute.

Nice looking engine, though :thumbsup:
 

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70 Deville 77 Fleet 78 Seville 92 Deville 03 Deville
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3,310 Posts
Those water pump hoses are hard to get at in the car. I think they may be discontinued anyway. The power steering cooler/hose usually fails. It would be nice to have a new one if they are available. Exhaust manifold gaskets are next to impossible in the car but I don't know if I would take the chance of disturbing them. I would be really pissed if they leaked after I got the motor in though. I guess I would just make sure theree are no broken studs
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
1. The engine didn't come with a distributor along with many other accessorys (alt, p/s pump, a/c compressor or PFI) The engine in the vehicle now has 135,000 miles on the odometer but I have no idea how old the distributor might be. So lets say 135k, should I replace it or use the one I have?

2. Today I removed the spark plugs and they looked fine with no obvious signs of problems. I'll be using new ones anyway (havent decided what kind yet).

3. I also attached a hose to the inlet above the thermostat and flushed a whole bunch of nasty old "crud" through and out the holes of the water pump housing inlets. After that I used steel wool and a wire brush to remove any rust/corrosion and old gasket from the backing plate (see picture)

4. Removed the old O2 sensor.

5. Inspected the engine visually and only noticed one thing I'll need to address. The right (front) valve cover looks slightly crushed at the corner (see picture). On the opposite side (intake side) of where this is crushed, the intake thread that holds the corner valve cover bolt is broken (see picture). This is either from overtightening the bolt or whatever crushed the valve cover probably bumped and broke the piece off the intake.

6. I also noticed that the one intake port hole is dirty (see picture)...can I just use carb cleaner and a rag and clean it out?

7. My next step is to remove the crank pulley (still havent thought of the best way to do this). At the moment though I was able to rotate the engine freely with a wrench. This turned the flywheel fine.

I'm not actually doing the engine swap myself, but I'm prepping the engine myself to save some money and I enjoy doing this, especially since I have no obstructions. Also, my vehicle ran perfect before the coolant leak which turned out to be the cracked block, so the condition of my old parts should be pretty good.

More Pics http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i444/cristofo/
 

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2002 STS, 1991 Eldorado
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1) The distributors on these cars are finicky at best; one little thing wrong with it and you can chase your tail following gremlins. You can probably use yours if the car was running right in the first place.

2) I would just put AC Delco's back in place as they work good in the engine.

5) The covers on these cars are magnesium which is not prone to bending well. If crushed, replace; especially if you see cracks.

7) Why are you removing the crank pulley? If you're looking for clearance all you really have to do is remove the bolt and the pulley should clear. If you want to remove the crank pulley, get a pulley puller..you can "rent" one from an automotive parts house for nothing....
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice!

I'm removing the pulley to install a new timing chain set.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fair question. I'm not to familiar with the reliability of the timing setup in these engines so I'm just thinking if it will need to be changed why not do it now. I've seen it recommended when reading about buying a used engine but that's not to say its the right thing to do. my only other concern is so I can check what everything looks like in regards to condition and where the cam and crank lineup. What would you suggest and how long does a timing chain last in this engine? Can a chain and gear slip out of adjustment like a tooth and belt setup?

Also the timing set is about 50 bucks as opposed to a few hundred down the road. I'm a little picky when it comes to my cars and this is the nicest car I've ever owned. I do appreciate the feedback I'm open to as much knowledge as I can get.

Thanks
Chris
 

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2011 Crown Vic LX, 2009 Chevy Malibu 2LT
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The timing chains in these engines are good for the life of the vehicle. Even at 200k, they show minimal slack. The GM units are of great quality. I'd advise AGAINST replacing it, as you never know what you are getting with aftermarket. The GM timing setup is good for 300k, but the aftermarket might only be good for 100k...

I think you should save that $50 for anything else that pops up during this swap.

Concerning a post above, these engines did not come from the factory with exhaust manifold gaskets. The head and thick manifold flange were finished with a flat enough surface that gaskets were not required. Gaskets ARE available from aftermarket manufacturer...don't install any.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great new thank you! Should I leave the timing cover gasket alone and just do the water pump and wp gasket and inlet gasket?

After reading up on everyone's issues on leaking gaskets, I'm gonna make sure everything sets perfectly. Having the room to do so is a major plus.
 

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70 Deville 77 Fleet 78 Seville 92 Deville 03 Deville
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I agree with Drew on the timing chain. Yours is low miles already and they seem to last for the life of the engine.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm going to go with your advice and leave the timing chain alone...I will be spending that money on a GM waterpump and carefully installing it as to not have any leaks.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I could tell by your question that you were about to tell me that. This is the kind of stuff that I love about forums. It's hands on results from fellow car lovers. You get well rounded answers that have no agenda behind them. I'm fairly new to the forum and I hope eventually I can start helping others. I've been browsing this forum and there is a specific type of poster that discourages people from commenting. I'm sure I don't need to tell you his name. but casper the friendly ghost isn't so friendly.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If anyone has a chance to look at the new Photobucket pics i posted I have a question regarding the upper intake port holes.

http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i444/cristofo/

As you can see there's either carbon buildup or dirt in the uncapped port hole. Can I just spray that with carb cleaner? And should I avoid spraying directly into the metal tube in the center? There is carbon or dirt build up in there also and I used some q tips soaked in cleaner. I might be handling this with kid gloves when I don't need to.
 

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2011 Crown Vic LX, 2009 Chevy Malibu 2LT
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There is one under each throttle body bore. Those tubes allow the EGR system to function. They should be cleaned out - you can do so with anything that fits in there whether it be a screwdriver, piece of coat hanger, etc. If you are really concerned about getting it all out, remove the EGR valve and clean the passages from both sides with an air compressor and some carb cleaner. That is really not necessary, however.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cool, i'll work on that today along with pulling the Valve Cover that is cracked. I'll keep posting pics if you guys dont mind.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I rotated the crankshaft just to get the feel of how the engine is rotating and Im curious...

When you do this, should your crank rotate totally smooth & easy when making one full rotation? I'd say 3/4 of the way its fairly smooth but it gets to a point where it requires more pressure to rotate with the wrench. Once you get past that point its fairly smooth again 3/4 of the way.

My question: Is this normal? There is no oil in the engine so I'm guessing that adds to it. The only other reason I feel this might be normal is due to the way the pistons are moving. If a piston is traveling down and gets to the furthest point there should be additional friction when changing direction or does this sound totally wrong?

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Yes, it's normal. It's the compression stroke...and it's not because the piston's reaching the bottom, it's because it's reaching the top...with the valves closed.
 

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1990 Sedan DeVille (Sold), 1970 Cadillac Coupe DeVille
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Awesome thanks man!

Ok after day 3, I threw some updated pictures of my progress. http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i444/cristofo/

I removed the Valve Covers and the heads look great! No sludge, no visible issues so I'm happy.

I cleaned the water outlet that bolts to the back of the water pump. It took alot of elbow grease to get it completely clean and free of the old gasket. I'm taking every precaution to make sure my cooling system is leak free.

I also cleaned inside the upper intake with carb cleaner and a rag, used compressed canned air to clear out the metal egr tubes. I noticed that the metal center egr tube in the port hole with the deeper inlet was loose. I could turn it in place but i could not pull it out and I didnt try very hard because I didnt think it was a good idea.

I also bought Champion Platinum Plugs today but I'm still not sure if I want to use them. I have great success with NGK plugs but Ive only had them in 2 Acuras so far. Im searching the forum for plug recommendations but there is almost too much info. I may take these back to either get AC Delco Platinum or NGK Platinum G series. Maybe some people have done or heard of this. Does anyone here adjust the install on their plugs so that the open end of the tip is facing directly towards where the injector is located?


Almost there...
 
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