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1995 cadillac fleetwood brougham
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Discussion Starter #1
Been doing this for months now and don't really know what to do I replaced sparkplugs and wires. ICM. Checked battery cables. Unhooked battery overnight but didn't make any difference problem comes back
 

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96 FWB
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The vid is ok, but still generic enough symptoms to be the classic 45-50 'off-idle stumble' issues without appreciably more background.

This has been going on for months, so how long have you owned the car? The opti tune-up is of course perfect pm for any 25-year old GM or 100k miles. So how many miles on this car? What was repaired or replaced around that time besides plugs/wires? You mention the vacuum side of things, so did you go ahead and replace EVERY hose there is under the hood, plus the tank end of the '100% always rotted EVAP splice'?

There's an excellent collection of intel on these exact items here:

I take it the car was warmed up for the vid, and there's different sets of issues for both 'cold' and 'closed loop' stumbles, so important to note if it's better or worse cold or hot. The only way I know to eliminate the shifter flub from the mix is just get under the car and adjust the linkage cable.

I've had EXACTLY those symptoms as yours from simply getting the plug wires on wrong. ON TWO DIFFERENT CARS!

You could have a ground or ign. coil acting up when hot, or just a mouse nest in the air filter box.

Strongly recommend getting a factory service manual - very detailed 'driveabilty' diag. routines.
 

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1995 cadillac fleetwood brougham
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Discussion Starter #4
FTSS.

I've owned the car for 9yrs it had 134,000KM on it. Currently has 203,000KM on it now

Only thing that has been done 1starter motor 2 AC compressors first one was faulty after 4 months. Plugs and wires ICM. Fuel filter, air filter regular oil changes. Coolant change. I usually get the serpentine belt replaced every year and a half just because it starts chirping

EVAP line that's at the front of the intake correct? If it is the one your referring to there are small hairline cracks in the rubber hose but it's been like that for 2 yrs I've heard it's not an easy part of obtain people use a sparkplug wire boot to fix it because the bend in the rubber is almost identical to the factory hose not sure what specific
 

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95 FWB 81SDV 96 FWB 94 Fleetwood
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The first thing I would change is the coil. They are cheap and eazy to change and have seen them make these cars act real screwy. Second thing the cap and rotor.
 

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96 FWB
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(QUOTE="tyler little, post: 17851597, member: 559617")
FTSS.

I've owned the car for 9yrs it had 134,000KM on it. Currently has 203,000KM on it now
>125k the opti is overdue for a cap and rotor. There are differing quality replacements out there. Very important to 'blueprint' the opti upon reassembly, and numerous threads on that same forum I linked to for all the steps involved. You will be purchasing a few Torx and reverse Torx little bits, locktite and dielectric grease. Get a new opti harness too. 4 hours spent on search may save tearing everything apart again in a month to catch critical items like: Check and clean the opti vent tubing and check valves as well. Don't grease viton o-rings/seals.

Only thing that has been done 1starter motor 2 AC compressors first one was faulty after 4 months. Plugs and wires ICM. Fuel filter, air filter regular oil changes. Coolant change. I usually get the serpentine belt replaced every year and a half just because it starts chirping
Belts last >10 years. Replace the tensioner. Get a metal one.

EVAP line that's at the front of the intake correct?
No, this:
585871



If it is the one your referring to there are small hairline cracks in the rubber hose but it's been like that for 2 yrs I've heard it's not an easy part of obtain people use a sparkplug wire boot to fix it because the bend in the rubber is almost identical to the factory hose not sure what specific
HaHa - so you've been running with a potential vacuum leak for 2 years????? It's probably the perfect time now to get a boot and address it:



(/QUOTE)

Just an insight, but there's periodic maintenance and there's preventive maintenance. Both are crucial in keeping quarter-century old production cars running reliably. And without attending earnestly and consistently to BOTH then the added terms repair, breakdown and compromised safety assume their ever-increasing roles. Just from the outside looking in it seems like you've attended the periodic side of things adequately, but way behind the curve on the preventive front.

Just an insight.
 

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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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98 Posts
Have you checked your fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator? Leaning out the fuel will make it stumble and miss. I had it happen on my 96. Previous owner had the fuel pump replaced and the mechanic forgot to tighten the clamp on the hose between the pump and the fuel output line. I chased the wrong thing thinking it was overheating and trying to seize. It was running hotter than normal but that was due to it not getting enough fuel. It started with a little miss. I also had a loose connector on injector 5 which didn't help.
 

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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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98 Posts
First suspect would be stuck or non-functioning EGR.
True. I replaced the EGR Valve and solenoid when I first got mine. Then when it started acting up I changed the ICM, coil and MAP. It wasn't until it got bad enough that it started throwing random misfire codes. Fuel pressure was at 25-27 PSI instead of 43-47 PSI. Amazing it was still drivable.
 

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96 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 07 CTS, & 94 Caprice Wgn
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Tyler, I recently went through my 94 FW, one thing I remember were the lines going to the charcoal filter were rotted. I replaced them, the canister is located under the right inner fender well.

Did you check the IAC (idle air control) valve? That has a lot to do with fluctuating idle. I believe they can be cleaned, so you could give that a try, without a cost. #7

Wow you've had the Caddy for quite a while. I'm pretty sure I remember you when you started on the forums. You were a young man in those days, maybe 18 to 20?

Tom


585957
 

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1995 cadillac fleetwood brougham
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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you everyone for all the advice I won't be able to get a good look at everything until I take it into the shop on the weekend I can't fit underneath the car like I used to as covid has put a few extra pounds on me 🙄

Visually from what I can see on the top half of the engine is the cracked looking hose on the front passenger side of the intake. EGR valve is out of my expertise and will have to pay my friend to swap it out. There are some damp spots presumably oil around the intake manifold might have to torque the bolts down but it doesn't appear to be gushing oil just looks dried oil

Underneath looks like I have a oil cooler line leak again.... 5th time that will have to be replaced but it lasted longer than the previous ones. There appears to be a slight leak coming from the front crank but won't be tackling that right now too overwhelmed with all the other stuff adding to the list. I looked to make sure the plug wires were seated properly into the spark plugs and Opti but can't get my hand in well enough so I want to get it on a hoist to check everything underneath A friend of mine works on these cars and teaches me how to do the basic repairs anything too involved I leave him to deal with. Thanks to all of you for the suggestions you sent me It will hopefully fix this.

Just a side note I took the car out tonight for a little run it drives very well and peels the rear tires when you put the throttle down so I'm sure the Opti is fine given it has 200k on it tonight I took it to the gas station to fill up one thing that the car used to do every time I went to open the gas cap there would be this rush of air coming from the filler neck. Lately it hasn't been doing that not sure if that gives a clue to the EVAP purge line plugged or rotted. I don't really know because I can't seem to locate that line FTSS attached a picture of the rotted line but I can't seem to figure out where the exact location is based on that picture
 

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1995 cadillac fleetwood brougham
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Discussion Starter #13
Tyler, I recently went through my 94 FW, one thing I remember were the lines going to the charcoal filter were rotted. I replaced them, the canister is located under the right inner fender well.

Did you check the IAC (idle air control) valve? That has a lot to do with fluctuating idle. I believe they can be cleaned, so you could give that a try, without a cost. #7

Wow you've had the Caddy for quite a while. I'm pretty sure I remember you when you started on the forums. You were a young man in those days, maybe 18 to 20?

Tom


View attachment 585957

Hi Tom I remember you and jayoldschool both of you gave me great tips to keep my car running if it weren't for you guys the caddy probably would have ended up at the bone yard where I seem to find a lot of these b body d body cars

I was 16 at the time when I got the caddy which was and still is my very first car and around that time I joined the forums. She's been plugging away but sense the ol girl is getting tired I'm probably better off buying a well maintained caddy as mine wasn't maintained much when grandpa owned it and pretty much parked it for a whole year until I took ownership. She's been fairly reliable hasn't really left me stranded except 50feet from the gas station which I learned the infamous gas gauge on these cars is a liar! 7bars your walkin....
 

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Wow you were younger than I thought. I'd say you've done well keeping her running for 9 years. Seasoned guys often throw in the towel long before that.

I'm also a believer that the OPTI takes more blame than it deserves. Keep at it, you'll find the issue.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Update: it's been awhile I did get the cracked vaccum line replaced and did the EGR neither were the problem. Bolts are torqued on the intake manifold. O2 sensors checked and working. I don't know why but I decided to put a bit of grease on the gas cap seal because I remember my grandmother's old 93 buick had a problem identical to what mine is doing her a mechanic put grease on the gas cap seal and her car didn't do that anymore. After doing that with mine the problem stopped somewhat. It still does it sometimes so maybe it could be caused by a leak somewhere in the fuel system...

a few days ago I fixed a leaking oil cooler adapter on the engine it looked like a rear main seal thank God it wasn't. My question I have now is it normal for air to come out of the oil fill cap and dip stick insert? There's no smoke or oil blowing out just air coming out I do smell a little bit of gas
 

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PCV is one thing I would replace just for the ease and fun of it!, based on air coming out of the crankcase. (oil cap and dipstick) Have you ever checked the fuel pressure? I had a wonky fuel pump relay. I replaced it and all is well here. It is located on the firewall on the passenger's side.
 

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The PCV system, working correctly, should maintain a slight vacuum at the oil fill cap at idle. "Air" blowing out the oil fill is actually excessive combustion blowby gases.

How many miles on the engine (piston rings) and does the engine use any appreciable amount of oil ?

OK - from an earlier post I see 126,000 miles. The rings and valve stem seals are suspect. High mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I'm guessing my engine is worn out? Should I go ahead and replace the PCV or waste of time? I only discovered the air coming out of the oil dipstick holder and cap when I went to check the level. To my knowledge I've never felt air coming out from those areas before. Like I mentioned no oil is shooting out from the areas no smoke either. no smoke out the exhaust so it's not burning just a slight amount of air and smell of gasoline coming from the oil fill and dip stick
 

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Update:

......Bolts are torqued on the intake manifold. .........
Not understanding at all the significance of that at all. Intake leaks are commonly eroded and vanished sealant on the front/rear china walls. It requires simply removing the intake and completing the required service. Example: a 10-year old '95 FWB:

588000


588001


....... it looked like a rear main seal thank God it wasn't. ........

Ok. Then what did you confirm it is/was instead? Prime suspects will be leaking intake or valve cover. A simple spray of gumout out when idling will rule out the former.

So I'm guessing my engine is worn out?
Not understanding of your question, especially in light of the two posts immediately prior to yours. In fact the exact opposite is indicated.

Should I go ahead and replace the PCV or waste of time? .....
Confused. The PCV is an expected and customary periodic maint. item. How can expected and customary periodic maint.ever be a waste of time?
Just a thought, but only one option is to slowly "keep at it" as recommended. You've got a comparatively lo-mile car with straightforward drive-ability issues, which is certainly normal on a 1/4-century old production car. You've been slowly attending some simple long overdue expected periodic maint. and repair items, but several recommendations by wiser oldsters here seem not to have been followed up on - in fact not even responded to which is perplexing.

Considering the car's ever-advancing age and what you portray as "sparse" maintenance it can get to be quite the money pit if paying someone else instead of doing of necessary work yourself. All due respect to your friend, but costs can mount even more if the mech. is not expert with the old tech and very short-lived design of this motor.

You contemplated earlier sending the car to the JY and "buying a well maintained caddy". If you're just plain tired of the car, then you can do the math on whatever $$$ to methodically drill down to root-cause issues v. a newer car purchase.

Instead of a JY it'd be better to throw up a FS here or elsewhere. There's plenty of guys would love the car with just some the common "off-idle stumble" attention required.

Finally, Quote tyler: "......FTSS attached a picture of the rotted line but I can't seem to figure out where the exact location is based on that picture ......"

It's forward of the fuel tank. You'll want to get it on your friend's lift.
 
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