Hello everyone, I have a 2000 STS 66K, I live in the midwest, a few times lately, twice today the engine just shut off while driving down the highway at 55 mph, I pulled over - put it back in park and it started right up and I drove away, I had approx 1/4 of a tank of gas, I added 10 bucks worth and 6 miles later again at 55 mph it just died, same result started right away and no issues for 40 miles, I had the gas cap replaced a couple of weeks ago under the advice that it was a first - inexpensive (is it true caddy owners can't use the word cheap):cookoo: , also once and a while in the morning when I first turn the key I get nothing, no lights no ignition, just nothing, then I try again and it acts like there is nothing wrong and it starts fine, I bought a new key thinking this was a chip / security problem, besides I did not have a back-up, this also did not fix the problem, anyone have an answer for this problem ?
Engine shuts off while driving
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Probably a faulty crank sensor. The 2000 model year had some problems with them. Check for codes that might be thrown the next time it happens. Just hold the info up and on/off buttons at the same time until the dash lights up. Then use the on/off button to go through the menu to read off the codes. Have a pen or pencil ready though.
When the car shut off, were the dash lights still working? (speedometer working? odometer?) If the dash goes dead when the car dies, you have some kind of electrical problem. If the dash is OK, I'd suspect the crank position sensors. Check for codes and let us know.Mitsubishiman said:
You need to pull your codes.
I was driving my 99 STS, and the engine went dead, all lights went dead ... put it in neutral, and it starts right up.
The code for ignition switch failure came up ... dealer put in a new switch, problem has yet to reoccur.
I was driving my 99 STS, and the engine went dead, all lights went dead ... put it in neutral, and it starts right up.
The code for ignition switch failure came up ... dealer put in a new switch, problem has yet to reoccur.
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I experienced similar problems on a car some years back and the problem was the pick-up coil.
a long shot, but check to make sure your cables at the battery are on correctly. we bought a used toyota forerunner and the positive cable was tightened so hard at the terminal the connector cracked. i try starting it up once and it just shut right off, no power or anything.
also, check to make sure there isn't anything touching the terminals other THAN the cables. silly me, when the above problem occurred, i decided to do a quick fix by putting a small C clamp on the connector. i didn't notice the clamp touching the power steering fluid reservoir, and every now and then while driving the car would stall or almost stall, and produce a stinky burning smell. i finally stop and look under the hood to find the clamp had been shorting out my electrical, and had actually welded itself together.
haha, anyway yea, worth a look at least.
also, check to make sure there isn't anything touching the terminals other THAN the cables. silly me, when the above problem occurred, i decided to do a quick fix by putting a small C clamp on the connector. i didn't notice the clamp touching the power steering fluid reservoir, and every now and then while driving the car would stall or almost stall, and produce a stinky burning smell. i finally stop and look under the hood to find the clamp had been shorting out my electrical, and had actually welded itself together.
haha, anyway yea, worth a look at least.
Hello Everyone and thanks for the responses
the very next day it stopped twice in 20 miles, the first time I started righting down the codes and I then gave them to my mechanic
they were as follows
DIM B1983 HISTORY
DIM U1016 HISTORY
IPM U1255 HISTORY
IRC U1000 HISTORY
IRC U1016 HISTORY
RIMM U1255 HISTORY
TTM U1016 HISTORY
He also checked then codes with his equipment, I passed on the information from all of you, and I advised him to replace the crank sensors anyway - since there appears to be issues with them anyway, the local Cadillac garage stated that the 2 most common causes for my symtoms were the crank sensor and the ignition switch, tommorow I will have the ignition switch replaced, as to the question from mcowden, the lights did in fact go off, and now this morning when I put in the key the lights all came on but the starter woulld not engage, I wiggled the shifter around a bit and then it started, then after work basically the same thing, it would not engage the starter until I wiggled the shifter around, am I making the right decision on the ignition switch ?
the very next day it stopped twice in 20 miles, the first time I started righting down the codes and I then gave them to my mechanic
they were as follows
DIM B1983 HISTORY
DIM U1016 HISTORY
IPM U1255 HISTORY
IRC U1000 HISTORY
IRC U1016 HISTORY
RIMM U1255 HISTORY
TTM U1016 HISTORY
He also checked then codes with his equipment, I passed on the information from all of you, and I advised him to replace the crank sensors anyway - since there appears to be issues with them anyway, the local Cadillac garage stated that the 2 most common causes for my symtoms were the crank sensor and the ignition switch, tommorow I will have the ignition switch replaced, as to the question from mcowden, the lights did in fact go off, and now this morning when I put in the key the lights all came on but the starter woulld not engage, I wiggled the shifter around a bit and then it started, then after work basically the same thing, it would not engage the starter until I wiggled the shifter around, am I making the right decision on the ignition switch ?
As I said, my car would just turn off, all power and lights gone, while cruising. It then would start up instantly, and the culprit was the ignition switch.
You, however, are having an issue starting your car, needing to jiggle your shifter ... this is a classic case of your park-neutral switch going bad. I would definitely have the switch checked out.
You, however, are having an issue starting your car, needing to jiggle your shifter ... this is a classic case of your park-neutral switch going bad. I would definitely have the switch checked out.
Mitsubishiman, I do think you're on the right track. On a 2000, the crank position sensors are known to be a weak point, so replacing them is either going to fix the problem or it's a preventive measure. It's probably worth it either way according to an expert who used to frequent the forums. Ted tcb offers another piece of good advice with the park/neutral switch, though if your dash lights were going out, the ignition switch is probably the more likely solution.ted tcb said:
Once again thanks everyone for the advice, I had the ignition switch replaced today, I hope that will fix the problem, seems like it is OK now, at the rate the incidents were increasing I would say if nothing happens for a week I'm in the clear, BTW is there a place I can see what the codes represent ?
For a 1996 or newer car (OBD-II), you can look up most codes here:Mitsubishiman said:
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html
Let us know how the ignition switch works out for you.
Hello Everyone, it has been 6 days since I had the ignition switch replaced and 8 days since the crank sensor was replaced, I have had none of the stalling problems since then, it appears that the problem is fixed.
:yup: :yup: :yup:
Thanks once again for all of the feedback, it was a great help, I have not got the bill for the replacements yet, how much do you think it will be ?
:yup: :yup: :yup:
Thanks once again for all of the feedback, it was a great help, I have not got the bill for the replacements yet, how much do you think it will be ?
<holds pinky backwards to mouth> ONE MEEL-YUN DOLLARS!Mitsubishiman said:
Sounds like things are back to normal... Glad you got it fixed. If you have the issue again, I would go for that park/neutral switch next, as mentioned previously by ted tcb. As for those codes you got:
B1983 - Device Power Circuit Low
U1016 - Loss of Communications with PCM
U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM
U1255 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction)
U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction
You may still have a failing module somewhere, or a wiring problem or the PCM itself. Since those codes are all in History, it may have been a problem that was fixed in the past. Maybe ewill3rd can comment here on his experience with troubleshooting the class 2 serial bus codes.
Hello Again, replaced crank and map sensors and the ignition switch, 1000 miles later and still no return of the stalling issues, as a matter of fact I seem to have a bit more horsepower, maybe it's just me
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