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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
In reading alot of threads on here, i notice most people state that their N* is somewhat fast. Thats contrary to what i have noted with mine. Mine feels like a dog. it wont light the tires from a light thats for sure. Passing a truck on the highway is damn near impossible.

Only code on the car is P0741 for the TCC. I am getting that repaired soon. Would that cause the car to be a turd? I do not overheat. Always at 12 except one day last week. It went to the first tick and promptly came back down. Probably a slipping belt.

What else would cause the car to be so sluggish. Sometimes, when I start it, i will go from park to 3. It will take off slow but at the same throttle, within a cpl seconds, it will take off faster. like turbo just kicked in. Bad analogy but you get it. Anyhow, i have had this car about 3 weeks and its been like this the whole time. I love the car but I am just trying to learn the car better as i drove grand prixs for many years prior to this.

Sorry for the long post and TIA for any help.

Dan
 

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2006 XJ, 2000 Eldorado ESC--total loss :(
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1,180 Posts
Even with the SLS gearing it can chirp the tires on heavy accelerations before traction control kicks in. These cars aren't the fastest off the line, but nobody would mistake them for slow... especially in highway passing.

So you're saying your car starts out in 3rd gear? That's definitely not right. Your torque converter code won't generally cause performance problems like you describe, that's converter lockup for cruising economy. Unless the excess slippage has deteriorated it to the point where it's contaminated your trans. But I would expect codes from that. It's also possible your trans needs the new shift solenoids, which is not that bad a job, but again I would have expected codes for that.
 

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'03 STS 122K, '01 STS 161K - 3/3/11
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671 Posts
Does it feel like it's bogging at all?

Possibly a plugged CAT? Not sure if that normally sets a code.
 

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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
not starting in 3rd. I put the selector in 3rd to avoid the code for the TCC. It does feel like its bogging but it doesnt feel like a cat although anything is possible. When i take off from a stop under normal acceleration, it will seem bogged for a cpl seconds then it seems normal and takes off. It will not chirp the tires at all. sometimes when i go to pass on the highway, it sort of feels like it doesnt downshift. Sometimes entering the highway, it doesnt accelerate quickly out of the onramp. takes about 20 seconds to go from 25-30 to 65. maybe it is the shif solenoids not acting correctly. how hard is this jog? tranny R&R?
 

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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
no codes for the cat right now. Is it just one cat? In my past experiences i could smell the cat going bad. Doesnt smell funny. Sometimes idles a little rough in gear. got a P/N for the cat for 02 SLS?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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68,024 Posts
If you have any history on this car, was it "driven to church on Sunday by a little old lady" ? If so, all it needs is some judicious TLC in the form of a few WOT's. Read the ENTIRE Cadillac Technical Archive up in the black bar ^^^, especially the section "Occasional full throttle operation is good for your engine".

Also, rear the entire sticky thread at the top of this Seville main page titled "How to pull codes" from your car's built-in code reader/scanner system. Practice, write them all down, noting whether each is Current or History. Return to the sticky and open the link with "obd2" in the URL. Use the links in the Master Index box to get the definitions of any P,B,C, or U Diagnostics Trouble Codes.

Either get a real GM/Helm Factory Service Manual (eBay) or subscribe the car to www.alldatadiy.com: more manuals and info than you can ever read.

(Codes - just saw your most recent post - sorry.)

Yep, one cat - flange front connector, welded rear, one O2 sensor just aft of the cat. Rare as hens' teeth. Small resonator muffler aft of the car. The cat is a high flow unit and failure is possible, but rare. Here's the system out of my 2002 - the dimpled rectangular can is the resonator - you can see the O2 bung just ahead of it. (Now go to www.corsaperformance.com, then www.autopartswarehouse.com)

EDIT: at 11:55....."Idles a little rough....." - do a search for "plenum".
 

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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ill search for plenum but i will honestly state that I have no interest in a performance exhaust. I would prefer to keep it stock. Had 2 Grand Prix GTPs that started comfortable and ended up very uncomfortable. Once the mod bug bites, the poison sticks around. Going to avoid that with the caddy. So, in light of that, does anyone know the P/N for the stock cat?

Also, is it really only one O2? Most single cat cars i have dealt with had one in the down pipe and one post-cat.
 

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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
thats what i was saying. I dont want a corsa exhuast because i dont want a performance exhaust. Just a stock exhaust.
 

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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i really hope its not the converter. GM Parts direct shows it as the entire exhaust only and its 1300 dollars.
 

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Cadillac 98sls
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205 Posts
when was last tune up if bought car recently i would change spark plugs fuel filter air filter change trans flued and filter no flush.
 

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99 STS, White Diamond
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792 Posts
not starting in 3rd. I put the selector in 3rd to avoid the code for the TCC. It does feel like its bogging but it doesnt feel like a cat although anything is possible. When i take off from a stop under normal acceleration, it will seem bogged for a cpl seconds then it seems normal and takes off. It will not chirp the tires at all. sometimes when i go to pass on the highway, it sort of feels like it doesnt downshift. Sometimes entering the highway, it doesnt accelerate quickly out of the onramp. takes about 20 seconds to go from 25-30 to 65. maybe it is the shif solenoids not acting correctly. how hard is this jog? tranny R&R?
Something sounds very wrong, especially 20 seconds for 30-65 mph!! I haven't timed, but on level ground, I'd say 4 seconds at the outside! I know that the SLS is tuned and geared a bit differently than the STS, but my STS is the quickest and fastest car I've ever owned. The only front-wheel drive car I've ever driven that can burn rubber (traction off) from a standstill and has no problem giving a nice chirp (traction on) at 20-30 mph. The only production car I recall being faster was my uncle's 69? Stingray.

Have you turned off traction control to see if there is any difference? When you RAPIDLY floor the accelerator, do RPMs jump almost immediately (about 1 second) to slightly above red line before a shift? Anything unusual about the road surfaces when you notice a particular problem? The one and only time mine seemed a bit "doggy" was after severe ice storms with dry roads positively glazed with salt. Extreme heat + blacktop = less than solid surface. My hilly town is filled with blacktop streets that after the first summer become wavy anytime there is a stop at the bottom of a hill.

These are extremely smart cars that are making an incredible number of decisions mainly transparent to the driver based on a wide array of sensors. "Requested torque" and "delivered torque" are among the things sensed and calculated. Even a $250 or so interface to a laptop can give an amazing amount of real-time info to a person in the passenger seat while recording selected data streams to the hard drive...
 

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2006 STS V8 1SF RWD
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6,468 Posts
The PO741 will NOT cause any performance issues at all. Why start in 3rd? Just to not see the SES light? Having the code present will not hurt a thing, I've had it for 3+ years. Only difference will be slightly higher cruise RPM's above 41mph. You say it bogs down upon initial acceleration? Sounds like plugs/coils to me, maybe fuel pressure problem.....
 

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03 STS
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2,527 Posts
i have had 2 gtp's also. i drove a ssei a month or so ago. could spin the tires for 50ft. easy. my sts cannot do that at all. i say go to a dealer and find an identical car and take it for a test drive. have something too compare. or did you do that when you bought your car?
 

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2006 STS V8 1SF RWD
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6,468 Posts
My STS will ROAST them right now because my TC is not functioning due to a bad bearing, it will however cut you off if you hit redline while doing it....it won't shift into 2nd while spinning the tires.
 

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2002 White Diamond Seville SLS
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I have not driven an identical car unfortunately. At the advice of a previous post, i took it for a spirited ride. Seems a little more responsive. Also, i read on here that when you bottom the accelerator pedal its not really bottomed. I found that to be true yesterday and it seems it forces a downshift when i push past what normally feels full throttle. I am going to change air and fuel filters as well as plugs. That should wake it up a bit. I just got the car and do not know the previous maintenance records unfortunately.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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BEFORE you start changing plugs and filters, do a lot of studying. This car is very different from what you seem to be used to and there quite a few procedures you need to follow.

Carry your 5W-30 oil level at just about halfway up the dipstick hashmark, no more. Maintaining the level at the top mark is overfilled and leads to rapid oil consumption. (GM TSB on this - posted many times.) The engine takes 7.5 quarts with filter - no more than that. (Some use exactly 7 quarts and the engine is perfectly happy.)

<------ ADD XXXXXXXX OPERATING RANGE -----------------

Use ONLY ACDelco Platinum #41-987 plugs. Study up on coil cassettes and plug connector boots. The plugs come pre-gapped to the correct .050". Change them cold and use a tad of anti-seize on the first 3 threads.

Be careful with the air intake ducting, the resonator, and the MAF - a leak anywhere in this sequence and your engine performance will be radically poor. Be careful not to lose the air filter box spring clips - if you let go they WILL disappear down into the fenderwell. Unsnap them and remove them from the plastic airbox. DO NOT get creative with aftermarket air filters - a WIX or ACDelco unit flows more air and filters more dirt than other "performance" claims...........

The fuel filter uses one hex nut connector and an O-ring quick-connect. Tricky, but fairly simple.

If you take the VIN to a GM dealer on a quiet mid-afternoon, ask a service writer to pull a GM VIS for you - this is a database of all warranty, recall, and some GM-performed maintenance on your car. CARFAX is worthless because it is a voluntary reporting system; the only info you'll get there is title and registration changes, maybe some emissions checks (state required), and almost never any maintenance or body work.

Transmission fluid exchange (NOT flush): First time around, take it to a GM shop and get some sort of "special". They'll use the new DEXRON-VI synthetic which is now used (since mid-2006) for ALL GM transmission service work.

Consider doing this to the air intake ducting - it will make your transmission fluid checks and air filter changes MUCH easier as well as eliminating a source of air leaks (poor performance).

Remember that the transmission is a dry sump unit: There will be NO fluid on the stick with the engine OFF. Fluid is checked with the engine running at idle in P, hot. Halfway up the dipstick, no more.
 

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2006 STS V8 1SF RWD
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Transmission fluid exchange (NOT flush): First time around, take it to a GM shop and get some sort of "special". They'll use the new DEXRON-VI synthetic which is now used (since mid-2006) for ALL GM transmission service work.
When I brought in my car for a transmission fluid exchange they were going to put Dex- III in it before I told them I wanted VI, charged me an extra $60, :sneaky: GM dealer too...
 
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