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'85 Fleetwood FWD
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Discussion Starter #1
Don't know if this has been covered on this forum, but a few years back the additive in engine oil that contains zinc and some other "stuff" for less wear etc was removed by the oil companies because auto companies wanted it out for better emission control. This became a problem for breaking in engines with flat-tappet cams. Some after-market cam companies had a rash of warranties I understand, when cams ate themselves at break-in. An article in Hot Rod magazine a couple of years ago went into this deeper. They recommended racing oil for break-in, or diesel oil. The additive they mentioned that is on the container is CI-4 plus.
The local auto machine shop found this out the hard (read expensive) way when a big block Chevy ate itself twice on the stand.
I found out the hard way also..two cams in a Chev SB.
The use of diesel oil for the next time around solved that problem, at least for me. It seems that even the break-in lube supplied with a new cam doesn't always do the job with the :"modern" oil. The GM EOS (engine oil supplement) is always a good additive during break-in too.

Sorry for the long-winded post........
 

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'85 Fleetwood FWD
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Discussion Starter #3
I used Royal Purple in the 60s, but haven't since. Do they have a full synthetic??
For years I hadn't seen any on the shelves around here. I'll have to look around and see what's available.

If a company like that makes a "break-in" oil, I would think it would have the additives necessary for break-in.
 

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'85 Fleetwood FWD
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Discussion Starter #4
I just Googled Royal Purple Oil Co and got the inf about their break-in oil. Looks good to me. In their statement about the oil, they mentioned the cam/lifter problem during break-in, and said they have a new additive type including the zinc required to help break-in.

I'll check into the local stores about it.

Thanks for the heads up lessloopp:thumbsup:
 

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Cadillac eldoado- 1973
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Hey steelybill. Great timing on your engine oil thread. I just put the royal purple break in oil in my '73 501 eldo long block rebuild. I guess the royal purple stuff is all synthetic now. They have it at pep boys, but I found the break in oil at my local speed shop. It says that it's zinc and phosphorus fortified on the label. I was about to start a new thread about my oil pressure going down to 25 lbs at idle after the 1st 100 miles. The rebuilder says it's normal, but I think it's low. I'm wondering if the break in oil is thin, but it's viscosity rated at 10w/30. The circa 1987 big block chevys in my boat idle at 40 lbs and run at 60 lbs and they're 10 years old,(last rebuild), with very high "miles". My fresh 500 long long block is idling at 25 and running at 50 lbs after 100 miles. It was pretty much getting 60 lbs all the time when I first started it. I was wondering what the forum gurus here thought about a freshly rebuilt '73 501 idling at 25 lbs oil pressure.
Thanks!!!
 

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'85 Fleetwood FWD
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Discussion Starter #6
I believe your hot/idle pressure is normal. There is only one style pump for these engines, meaning the pump gears are one length only. Some suppliers (which I wont name) claim hi-perf pumps. They can only modify the oil flow path for better efficiency, not increase volume.
The books I have here specify that normal oil pressure at 2000 rpm is 35 PSI.
Don't have an explanation for the 60 PSI earlier (??)

BILL
 

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Cadillac eldoado- 1973
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Hey Bill,
Thanks for the info. I'd love to know what your resource books are. I couldn't find anything in the factory service manual.
Thanks!
Ed (lessloop)
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Our Olds 455 marine engines idle at 20 - 25 psi, 600 rpm and run at 55-60 psi HOT, (215 oil temp) at 2200 rpm using Melling high volume pumps.

We use either Pennzoil Long Life 10W-30 or 15W-40, depending on the boat and load, but that oil is rated CC/CD diesel, so it carries a high ZDDP load. We use all Engle or Comp flat tappet hydraulic RV cams with moderate springs and have never wiped a lobe.

Also look at the spec sheets for Shell ROTELLA and CHEVRON fleet and marine oils. None of them carry the "Energy saving" starburst symbol, so they carry a high ZDDP load also.

25 psi idle is fine. Anything over 40 - 45 at 2000 is OK. No need to spend the bucks on EOS (which is now reformulated) or so-called break-in oils after the 100 hour breakin period.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Chemically, the current GM EOS bears no resemblance to the stuff from a couple of years ago which came in the black pint bottle with the bluish GM label that carried the disclaimer that the additive was "not GM recommended as an everyday oil supplement" or words to that effect.

I bought 2 cases of the old stuff from Flow Chevrolet/Cadillac when I learned that GM was "reformulating". There's none left on store shelves now - all the engine builders sucked it up. :sneaky: :sneaky:

You'll be just fine with a good brand of Fleet/Diesel 10W-30.
 
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