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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,
I have big problem. I have an interview tomorrow which is an hour drive away. I need my car running.

I was driving on the highway tonight giving my Eldo a little WOT (as I've been instructed to do every now and then. Started driving normally, about 75 mph using the cruise control. Then all of a sudden, I started hearing some rattling. I cut off the cruise, and I notice the rattling slowed down with my foot of the gas. It sped up the harder I hit the gas. Up and down, up and down as I hit and released the accelerator.

I stopped the car popped the hood and narrowed the rattling down to the intake manifold. The car will run but I'm scared to drive it and make something worse.

I ran the codes and got this:
P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit - History
P0341 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Performance - History
P0385 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B Circuit - Current (I changed the CKP about 20K Miles ago)
P1617 - Engine Oil Level Switch Circuit - History

Anybody! Anywhere! Please give me some advice! I need this job.
 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you try to tighten the intake manifold cover to spec?
Honestly, I haven't done anything yet. It's late and it's raining out. I'm not a real grease head or anything, but I do know how to follow instructions pretty well. lol

But the intake looked pretty tight, looks like it hasn't been touched in an awful long time. It sounds like something inside is rotating and hitting inside. I can check the torque to make sure before I tear into it.
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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88,148 Posts
Check the idler and tensioner pulley's. The bearings may be going bad. If so, you do not want to drive it like that.
 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the idler and tensioner pulley's. The bearings may be going bad. If so, you do not want to drive it like that.
I changed both tensioner pulley's last summer. I'd say they are good.

But that idler may be a good idea. I noticed a slight bit of a RPM fluctuation at idle last week. I haven't had a chance to check up on it yet. Where is that located? How do I check for good or bad?
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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88,148 Posts
The idler (#4) is just below the tensioner. Loosen the tensioner just enough to let the belt slip. If the noise goes away, you know it is something on that belt. Shut down and spin the pulley by hand to see if it is rough, noisy or loose.

 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The idler (#4) is just below the tensioner. Loosen the tensioner just enough to let the belt slip. If the noise goes away, you know it is something on that belt. Shut down and spin the pulley by hand to see if it is rough, noisy or loose.

So, for my own education ............. if it "IS" something on that belt that's going bad.......... what am I hearing ticking and rattling under the intake manifold?
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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88,148 Posts
The only thing under the manifold (if you are sure that's where it is coming from) is the starter and the only way that could make a clicking noise is if the pinion return spring broke and the pinion was hitting the flywheel and bouncing back and forth. Possible, but not very likely.
 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The only thing under the manifold (if you are sure that's where it is coming from) is the starter and the only way that could make a clicking noise is if the pinion return spring broke and the pinion was hitting the flywheel and bouncing back and forth. Possible, but not very likely.
I have been having some starting problems, but I deemed it due to that Camshaft posistion sensor I never changed. :(

I was reading some more threads today, and I saw one where this guy had a nut in there rattling around, but it didn't say what caused it to loosen up.
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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88,148 Posts
A bad pinion return spring will make more noise when you turn right. That would allow the pinion to shift to the left and engage the spinning flywheel. A left turn would have just the opposite effect.
 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is the noise rhythmic or random?
random.

At idle, it'll be soft for a little while (almost down to nothing), then all of a sudden get really loud for a minute or so, then get soft again.

When driving, it was louder and faster with the amount of pressure i put on the accelerator. Very low and slow with my foot off completely. Very loud and fast with the throttle wide open.

Something is in there moving around.
 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have the fuel rails loose, and the manifold off now. I found a ton of leaves and crap under there, but nothing hard that should make the kind of noise I heard.

I took out the starter and looked under it, but found nothing but leaves and such there. I'm thinking of replacing the starter since I've been having stuttering starts anyway, and I already got it out.
 

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2000 Cadillac ETC - White Diamond
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I drove my brother's car to the interview by the way, if anyone was wondering. :)
 

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1997 ETC
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5,102 Posts
New starter? Theyre quite expensive if you're having hard starts i'd check your battery connections first before investing in a new part, also have the battery tested
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Check your starter flange bolts and electrical studs twice - no sense going back in there........

Remember: The bolt torque for the intake manifold bolts is 89 in/lb. Only about 7.5 ft/lb. Be careful. Tighten the bolts in an outward spiral from the center two bolts in 3 steps - don't apply full torque all at once. Smear a drop of engine oil on each injector's O-rings. It will make dropping the fuel rail in much easier. When it's all back together, turn the key ON for 5 seconds, off for 30. Do this 3 times to prime the fuel system and check for leaks: the rail will hold 40 psi for hours if all's well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Check your starter flange bolts and electrical studs twice - no sense going back in there........

Remember: The bolt torque for the intake manifold bolts is 89 in/lb. Only about 7.5 ft/lb. Be careful. Tighten the bolts in an outward spiral from the center two bolts in 3 steps - don't apply full torque all at once. Smear a drop of engine oil on each injector's O-rings. It will make dropping the fuel rail in much easier. When it's all back together, turn the key ON for 5 seconds, off for 30. Do this 3 times to prime the fuel system and check for leaks: the rail will hold 40 psi for hours if all's well.
I guess I should've checked my starter bolts thrice....... I'm still having issues.

Pulled the starter out (since I had everything open anyway) and had it checked at Autozone. Checked out fine.

Buttoned everything back up. Everything powered up fine. Did the fuel system prime procedure per Sub above (thanks Sub).

Ran the codes.

Felt pretty good so I tried to fire it up. Got 1 churn out of the starter and the whole Electrical system went dead! No power anywhere at all. Pulled the battery connections, checked and cleaned the terminals. Stopped for a beer. Came back and reconnected the terminals. Power was back! Sweet!

Ran the codes again. Nothing new. Tried to start her up....... 1 churn and the Electrical system went dead again. I'm thinking the car is sensing something, and shutting me down before I break something. Maybe a missed ground somewhere.
 

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Are you using your hand to tighten down the battery bolt? That's what happened to me when I hand tight mine and although it looked like it was secure, it didn't get the "full" connection. They need a real good connection.
 
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