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Recently purchased 1985 Eldorado with 53,000 . Ran great for the last 3 weeks. Took it on a trip to Virginia in the rain . Ran great until I pulled into a rest area at which point it stalled as parking . Whwn I came back out it fired right up but when put in gear and given throttle it hesitates , misses & stalls. Was not drivable had to be towed . That was two days ago . This morning it was towed to my home and after I paid a $650 tow bill it fired up, ran smoothly and I even took it on a short 12 mile drive with no problems . Right now I don't trust it , does anyone have any idea what to check out before we use it again ? It's my wives daily driver , and yes it has a replacement 4100 not the original which launched itself after being abused by the original owner .
 

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Maybe water under the distributor cap? Try replacing the dist. cap and rotor first. See if the dist. terminals are corroded.
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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As you came to a stop, did the car act like a stick shift car that the driver did not depress the clutch pedal? In other words, jerk, jerk then stall. If so, then I would investigate the lock up torque converter wiring, brake light switch and solenoids in the trans valve body. Stepping on the brake pedal breaks the electrical circuit to the overdrive solenoid. If the brake switch is misadjusted or failed, it would stall. If the solenoid within the trans stays engaged mechanically, it would stall and continue to stall when put into gear until the solenoid becomes unstuck. When you drive in the D surrounded by the circle above 50 mph and lightly depress the brake pedal with your left foot, you will feel overdrive being disengaged if its working as designed.
 

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When it ie it just died , no jerking or any thing , BUT when we pulled out we had to keep it reved up & all it did was stumble AND the brake light DID have a dull glow to it , but not lit up all the way . I am notr sure about the OD engagement but it did on hindsight run very erratic before it died .B that I mean it had flt spots in the power range & even though it ran smooth did not seem to want to run past 60 to 65 but felt stressed by it but did it . I checked the oil for water today , none ; I checked for arcing with water spray , none . This weekend I am going to dive into it head first , don't got time during the week as I am a self-employed trucker . Jim
 

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Oh yes whenI started it yesterday it would not Idle smoothly , it surged . The weather was very humid and had rained not long before . Today it is hot and dry & it runs smooth as silk , if this is any help ?
 

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This is a long shot but verify the smog pump belt is tight and in good condition. If this belt is worn or loose it will slip more so in the rain and cause a lack of voltage. The smog pump belt, if loose, will cause the alternator belt to slip. Could be the reason for the brake light on dimly. This would also possibly account for the problem going away once the belt and pulleys dry. To verify if the belt is loose, try rotating the alt. pulley by hand oposite normal rotation, engine off. If you can rotate the alt. pulley, the smog pump belt is loose.
 

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The symptoms described sound exactly like the ones my car has. The TCC is staying engaged. When the car just sits for a while, it disengages. If I then drive around the city, I can drive forever and everything is fine (as the TCC does not engage in the city driving). But as soon as I take in on the highway and then get off, it will run like crap as soon as I get to the end of the off-ramp, until I shut the car off and let it sit for a while.

For now I've disabled the TCC from engaging (simply by disconnecting the connector at the TCC override switch on the brake pedal). Right next to the stop lights switch. You could do the same as this is an easy and quick way of confirming that you have this problem. Once disconnected, the car should run fine. The only negative is that your gas milage might drop slightly - that's all.

In most cases the TCC solenoid is defective. It is easily replaced once you drop the transmission pan - I just haven't had the time to do it yet. My car has 40,000 miles on it.

Peteski
 

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After reading the symptoms again, I agree with Peteski--likely a TCC solenoid is stuck in the transmission. If your problem only occurs when the car is hot, this is likely the case.

As a temporary measure, locate the TCC electrical connector at the transmission and disconnect it (or disconnect the other sensor like Peteski suggests). You'll lose about 10-15% fuel economy on the highway, but this is fine until you get it fixed. If your problem goes away, then this is it! I'd bet $20 that this is your problem.
 

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Hey did you try that? I seem to have a similar problem.

1985 cadillac eldorado, touring edition, CA car.

The car seemed to be running a little rough with slower acceleration, but was driving fine, so I was driving around town in San Francisco. After driving from one end of town to the other, just as I get home at the top of a hill the car just goes out. It won't turn on again, but there was no warning lights or anything. I am going to wake up early and see if it starts and maybe it is this tcc thing. I just got the car, no history, but it seems to have new water pump, thermostat, intake.

Any suggestions if it's not this TCC issue? I think I saw condensation on hood of car - perhaps water under dist. cap? Just trying to get a list of things that it may be so I can work way from easiest to worst fix. Just got this Eldorado and I want to have good times with it!

The hesitation seems to come if I accelerate harder, by the way, but it still has power. I'm getting about 9mpg according to computer - but thats driving fast around hills of SF. I was gonna change plugs and wires, possibly cap and rotor anyway.

Any help appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok , I tried everything suggested . Even did a complete tune up . Disconnected the tcc connecter as suggested . Problem went away for 3 days & came back PLUS now surges when first started until warms . A suggestion was made to me to check the fuel pump . Is this a good idea ?
 

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Are you're saying that the problem still shows up with TCC disconnected? If yes, then fuel pump (or filter or press. regulator) might be the problem. Best way to check that would be to hook up a pressure gauge with a hose long enough to have the gauge visible (inside the car) while driving. Then monitor the pressure to see if it changes while car starts acting up.

Peteski
 
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